Zodiac 733 rebuild - Page 2

gohelm · 18 September 2012, 23:28

[QUOTE="Bigtalljv"]I talked to somebody at Zodiac and they didn't think the mounts were structural. they did suggest, as Troy did, that they would like to watch me get them out. Currently they install them with enough epoxy to make removal virtually impossible. fortunately mine was not made in such a fashion, they popped out with a couple gentle taps from the BIG sledgehammer. /QUOTE]

Nice to see another inboard to outboard conversion and I'm really interested in the result!
The mounts may give some transversal stiffening (only advantage how i see it)but unlike in my boat the mounts seem to be rather space consuming and indeed not glued to the boat plus also not a good base for the new floor you are likely to put in...
Not sure if you considered it already but if you would be able to find yourself some nice alu hatches, the space under the floor makes excellent storage . Never regretted converting it to this purpose and doing the investment in the (freeman) hatches (found via this forum by the way)
Good luck and looking forward to some more pics and follow your progress!

Bigtalljv · 18 September 2012, 23:58

So this is what they look like out. They are big an bulky and they didn't let the water drain completely.

I was definitely planning some hatches behind the console. There is a mountain of space under there. I am considering modifying the center console to open like the commercial 733 on here, that has a toilet, but just use it for storage.

RyanPratt · 20 September 2012, 02:31

Balance is key on this boat, or any rib for that matter. When you move the center of gravity as much as you are you need to take that into account with all your mods. Every gallon of gas will weight 7lb and you are removing the engine, transmission and drive, all of which had substantial weight, then you are moving engines aft of the transom. A dangerous trick on a rib that relies so much on its design COG given its already delicate balance. Look around at other build and even ask Willard for a spec/drawing of their 730OB for inspiration and guidance.

ncp · 11 October 2012, 02:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

So how does the stock fuel tank come out? Either I need to get the hoses off or the piece of deck above them.

So, how hard was it to get the tank out?

I figured that I'd ask here before calling around:
(1) will anyplace weld expand the existing tank? I've heard conflicting reports on welding on a old tank...obviously it would have to be well cleaned first
(2) how much do new/custom tanks cost?

(I'd love some more range but am not willing to pay that much for it...20 gallons extra in 4 cans fits perfectly in the back on either side of my storage box and at $15/each, that's only $60 spent!!!)

Bigtalljv · 11 October 2012, 03:10

it turned out to be real easy to get out. you just have to remove the line fittings that screw into the tank. Access to the fittings is kind of a challenge, I found the little crowfoot wrenches to work well. Once you remove the fittings the tank has no protrusions and pulls right out.

It's dark out but that's what that part of the tank looks like.

I'm not sure what size tank you have now but there appears to be room for close to the 85 gallons the new boats have. You'd have to have it custom made but I understand that it would be a heck of a lot cheaper than trying to get the plastic Zodiac tank. I think I read somewhere that 2.5X the cost of the fuel the tank holds is a good ball park for custom tank costs. Of course that could have from 10 years ago.

Jason

ncp · 11 October 2012, 18:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

it turned out to be real easy to get out. you just have to remove the line fittings that screw into the tank. Access to the fittings is kind of a challenge, I found the little crowfoot wrenches to work well. Once you remove the fittings the tank has no protrusions and pulls right out.

It's dark out but that's what that part of the tank looks like.

I'm not sure what size tank you have now but there appears to be room for close to the 85 gallons the new boats have. You'd have to have it custom made but I understand that it would be a heck of a lot cheaper than trying to get the plastic Zodiac tank. I think I read somewhere that 2.5X the cost of the fuel the tank holds is a good ball park for custom tank costs. Of course that could have from 10 years ago.

Jason

I had some time to read this morning when I got into work. People estimate $8-9/gallon for what I assume is aluminum.

If I had to wager a guess, I would have said our (Willard/Zodiac diesel) tanks were stainless but then read this in an article:

"The [ABYC] diesel fuel system standard was reissued in 2005. Now, stainless steel may be used for fuel tanks, provided the metal meets all other relevant ABYC requirements, essentially those outlined earlier for other metallic tank materials. Stainless steel, if used for fuel tank construction, must be of the 316L or 317L alloy variety and a minimum of 0.0747 inch thick."

Since, our tanks were made <2005, they're aluminum and not stainless??? (not anywhere near my boat, I haven't looked real closely).

Bigtalljv · 11 October 2012, 23:08

most definitely Aluminum. Stainless seems like overkill and I am usually all for overkill...

I think I read somewhere that you can put fittings in the bottom of diesel tanks but not gasoline. In theory you could add some fittings and daisy chain a couple diesel tanks together via gravity. Or something like that. Seems more difficult and complex now that I write it down than having a new tank made.

Jason

ncp · 12 October 2012, 01:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

Most definitely Aluminum.

Thanks, adding "increase fuel tank size" to my future list of "to dos". I'll need to figure out if there's someone out there that will add some height to the existing one or it will have to be a new fabrication and whether $$$-wise it will be worth it.

We need more pictures and an update from you! Glasses in the transom yet? Started fabricating the aluminum bracket?

Bigtalljv · 12 October 2012, 02:21

well lest see, for all the work i have put in I don't seem to have done much. I have mostly been working on the tubes. I "think" I have all the holes patched but I am pretty sure I have a bad valve.

I have the plug in the transom and it is ready for glass. That will be something for the next warm weekend day.

I also removed the engine mounts. Lots of work but nothing exciting to see.

My fabricator friend is kind of busy so hopefully in the dead of winter we can find some time to work on the bracket.

Jason

ncp · 12 October 2012, 18:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

well lest see, for all the work i have put in I don't seem to have done much. I have mostly been working on the tubes. I "think" I have all the holes patched but I am pretty sure I have a bad valve.

I have the plug in the transom and it is ready for glass. That will be something for the next warm weekend day.

I also removed the engine mounts. Lots of work but nothing exciting to see.

My fabricator friend is kind of busy so hopefully in the dead of winter we can find some time to work on the bracket.

Jason

Lookin' goood

johndoe007 · 13 October 2012, 14:31

Looking good!

If that transom cap is starting to get in the way.... Just let me know and I'll be right over to help you remove it!

Bigtalljv · 15 October 2012, 01:47

Would anybody have any suggestions on how far forward I can (or should) move the console before it gets to a point where the ride is less nice for the guy driving? I'm thinking now that maybe ill just chop the low section off the front of the console and move it up that much, 2' forward. That would makes for a larger back passenger area and better deck space. The alternative is to cut a foot or so out so its more proper bench size. Either way I want it have the front of the console open big to access below decks storage. Maybe like the 733 that had a head down there if I have the seat or just a large door if no seat.

Jason

johndoe007 · 15 October 2012, 02:00

The scuba diver support model 733's that had the diver door had the consoles all the way in the front of the boat and outboards on the back. You just need to figure out where the gas tank was and how big it was. Some did add flotation behind the outboards as part of the tube, but I am not sure why

http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&c...13&tx=94&ty=54

Bigtalljv · 15 October 2012, 03:55

Yeah. I've seen the dive models with the console all the way up so i know it can be done. I was wondering if there was a noticeable subjective difference in the ride as I move forward. The front usually tries to bounce you out and it gets more mellow as you move back.

I have read the versions with the tubes around the outboards were to add flotation during sling launches where you want to make sure you don't dunk the OBs. Off ships maybe?

Jason

Screaming04 · 15 October 2012, 05:22

I wouldn't want to ride up front. I've been out and watched the bow drop 6-8 ft as I was transiting a confused sea with short steep waves.

Moving forward 2 feet would not leave enough room for a second row of seats in my boat. Take a look at the CZ7 config. That would work.

As for getting in the console, try it for size sometime. It isn't as big as you think. If you make the bottom flat so you can stand or mount a head, it's quite cramped. I'm larger than the average dude and could sit in there to work on the boat, but that's about it. Maneuvering for a true "head" experience would be awkward. You'd need to move around with the door open!

Adrian

Screaming04 · 15 October 2012, 05:26

One more thing, tankage. I had twin 2 strokes. You need every bit of fuel you can fit with twins. It's a relatively big boat. A single 85 gallon tank isn't going to give you enough range. My current 20 foot hard boat with a single carries 85. The 733 needs 125+ thus the standard 2 tank config of 85 main and 48 up front.

capntroy · 15 October 2012, 06:18

I'm with Screaming04; I'm a big fan of riding as far aft as possible. On my Nautica, I uprooted the console and pushed it back 5 feet and it really tamed the ride out.

Let the passengers sit in front, they usually like to be bounced around anyways...

Bigtalljv · 15 October 2012, 07:25

Sorry for not being clear, I'm not looking to put a head in I'm looking for storage options. The console is open down to the bilge area since there is no more diesel and it has cavernous storage possibilities. I like the way this console opens. I could store a lot if stuff down there, life jackets, dive gear, spearguns, cooler, it's big down there.
http://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid...78105&refid=17

Forwards/backwards...sometimes too many options are a bad thing. Anybody know if there is a measurement for the distance from transom to console on a CZ7?

And yes fuel is another issue I know I need more. Haven't even begun to think twin vs single.

Jason

jyasaki · 15 October 2012, 16:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by capntroy

I'm with Screaming04; I'm a big fan of riding as far aft as possible.

I'm with those guys. My pilot bench is butted against the transom.

Quote:

Let the passengers sit in front, they usually like to be bounced around anyways...

Not sure about this; most of my pax seem to migrate aft if we're in rougher stuff. Hell, even my dog has figured out that the back is the place to be.

jky

Bigtalljv · 15 October 2012, 17:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Not sure about this; most of my pax seem to migrate aft if we're in rougher stuff. Hell, even my dog has figured out that the back is the place to be.
jky

Yeah, that's my experience too. In the rough stuff I want people to have room in the back. On the lakes the kids like to be up front. The front of these boats just have a lot of toe breakers up there. I might try to pull some of the tie down loops but I think the lifting eyes stay and everything else protruding pales in comparison.

jason