Zodiac 733 rebuild

[Bigtalljv]

yeah, that's the inside of the tank. I didn't get any pictures of the weekends work except for that. Had the hull hanging from a backhoe boom for an hour or two while I swapped trailers and adjusted bunks.

Yeah, been cold here too, high 20's in the morning and only getting up to the high 50's during the day but should be back to the 70's by the end of the week :-)

[ncp]

Jason, looking really good. It's looking really clean. You may have convinced me to Kiwigrip my deck. I haven't looked/researched yet, will Kiwigrip stick to the aluminum top of the old fuel tank?

Originally Posted by clloyd

This icy weather is a drag (0-10 degrees).

That is a drag. I know that I shouldn't be complaining but, we're borderline down here and I'm debating "winterizing" the Cummins before I leave town this week... Just in case!

[Bigtalljv]

Originally Posted by ncp

will Kiwigrip stick to the aluminum top of the old fuel tank?

I think so, it says any primed surface. I'll find out later this week or weekend! I ordered some more zinc chromate primer to do the top of the tank. Not sure if its the best plan but I think I will just do the center and leave the 2" edge border with the bolt holes bare AL.

jason

[clloyd]

If you leave the edges bare, the corrosion tends to travel under the paint.

Regarding the cold weather, I poured a gallon of RV antifreeze into my sea strainer and now it's frozen solid. Pretty glad the engine is not in the boat right now. although if it was, I'd have it on a block heater.

[ncp]

Originally Posted by clloyd

If you leave the edges bare, the corrosion tends to travel under the paint.

Hmmmm... What's the best way then? When I get t to it, my plan was to leave an inch still bare aluminum too. How was yours done?

Originally Posted by clloyd

Regarding the cold weather, I poured a gallon of RV antifreeze into my sea strainer and now it's frozen solid. Pretty glad the engine is not in the boat right now. although if it was, I'd have it on a block heater.

I thought that stuff was supposed to go to - 50 or so!

[Bigtalljv]

Yeah I thought about the corrosion getting under but the zinc chromate primer is supposed to be good about keeping that from happening with scratches and such. Anything that toxic better be good. I'll give it a try. The worst thing that could happen is I have to recoat it in a few years. It's just a small section and easily worked with. Easier than painting the edge stripe

Jason

[ncp]

Is this the stuff you're going to use:

I used that stuff on my dash after a wipe down with white vinegar. Seemed to stick pretty well.

[Bigtalljv]

yep, same stuff but I got mine from the aircraft supply and got the metalready etch also. I decided not to go with the Alodine on this, I did on the engine bracket, it's all nasty stuff.

jason

[jyasaki]

Alodine is pretty tame compared to a lot of metal coatings. It does have free chromium, but that should rinse away and leave things reasonably safe. And I don't think the amount of chromium is all that high to begin with...

jky

[Bigtalljv]

That's a big darn engine. Unfortunately I think it might need to come up a little. The cavitation plate is about 2" below the bottom if the hull

Jason

[ncp]

It's starting to look more and more like a boat!

[ynp]

Nice boat!

Thanks for sharing the pictures.

[J.W.W.]

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

Wednesday I will mount the outboard. Any suggestions or tricks there? Four bolts, stainless 1/2", and one engine hoist. Anything else I need?

Please only use the origional bolts, or use 12.9 strength!!!
It would be a major mistake to use std 302 or 304 bolts with a large engine.

[clloyd]

They call the stainless bolts "butter bolts" for a reason.

I bet it feels good to see an engine on there.

On height, you might actually be optimal right there. I'm Ryan or someone with the outboard setup will be along shortly to confirm.

[Bigtalljv]

they are 316 1/2"x20 stainless bolts from McMaster. I don't believe there is a high strength stainless bolt. There are other "sort of stainless" alloys that are stronger but that's getting kind of esoteric. If I am incorrect please let me know what I should be using.

The only problem on getting advice on the height is I am one of the very few people who are running a single.

I saw this boat online and it looks like they have the engine in the same place I do, 1998 ZODIAC HURRICANE 733 | Boats for Sale

[clloyd]

There are specific bolts for these large outboards.

Google "Transom bolts Suzuki". They are like $20ea probably for a reason.

[Bigtalljv]

i think they are $20 because they say "Suzuki" on them. Unless they aren't using stainless they can't be any different.

[RyanPratt]

For what it's worth I use standard ss 1/2" bolts and leave 1/2 exposed after my nylocks then cover with rubber boot. Also place a 1 1/2 ss washer in inside of transom. I also set the top cavitation plate In line with the keel.

[Bigtalljv]

The work creeps along. Got the old tank top kiwi gripped. My buddy also fabricated the handle for the hatch, so that's ready to get caulked in now.

Engine rigging continues. I keep finding the list if things I needed to get for it. I forgot about the monitoring wiring.

And I have started in the electrical. Interesting what happens when you follow the suzuki rigging instructions and haven't done it before to know better. My battery leads are 17' long and their chart said use 0awg wire, so I did, sigh. That stuff is a tad bit thick. Next time I'd get 13' if 0awg and run the last 4' to the engine with something smaller.

I have a cardboard helm layout that makes me think I can fit everything in the electrical box. I'm just not sure if there will be enough metal between items to mount them.

And I mounted the transom cap, yeah less stuff on the garage floor. That also meant I could put the engine hoist in the shed too.

[ncp]

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

Got the old tank top kiwi gripped.

All the way to the edge it looks like? Just the zinc chromate primer?