Zodiac 733 rebuild - Page 8

Bigtalljv · 24 December 2013, 00:13

Zinc chromate, a coat or two of system 3 epoxy primer and then kiwi grip. Yes, all the way to the edge, I think it looks better that way since I have the paint strip around the opening.

Bigtalljv · 25 December 2013, 00:27

So the fancy switches are Ryan's fault, all his fault... I guess he should let blue sea know they sold one set from their sponsorship

So the cardboard cutouts tell me I can fit all my electronics in the electronics box I'm just not sure if that's a good idea. I really like it, nice and neat. And I dont have to cut holes in the nice console surface I fixed up

Jason

RyanPratt · 27 December 2013, 01:00

Looks good. Can't wait to see it all cut out and installed.

RyanPratt · 27 December 2013, 01:01

You could also run the tach on the gps with NEMA 2000 right save you some space.

Bigtalljv · 27 December 2013, 01:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanPratt

You could also run the tach on the gps with NEMA 2000 right save you some space.

Yeah I'm probably going to do that too. I need that to get the fuel info. I hate to have everything so dependent on the GPS. I work with too many computers to have total faith in them. Trust but verify? But I can ditch the tach if necessary.

RyanPratt · 27 December 2013, 03:31

I have analogue water preasure to make sure I catch my engines before they overheat but other than that I run off sound and speed.

You can look at tach and speed get your gph then run future just off speed and know what range rpm and gph you are at.

Bigtalljv · 28 December 2013, 00:11

I guess that's why you're a pro and I'm just a potential customer

I just want to make sure I don't blow up my engine. The tach has the idiot lights and alarms on it. I was more interested in that than the RPMs. I might have to reconsider your setup. The water gauges are smaller too...

Jason

RyanPratt · 28 December 2013, 01:27

Try this on for size

Click image for larger version

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clloyd · 29 December 2013, 00:23

You dont have to put everything in the box. Save it for the most critical stuff to look at when driving like guages.

You can move the vhf under the box lower left, cutting hole in console glass, that would free up guage space.

Another idea is to use something like bluesea weather deck panels to move switches yiu dont need at high speed, right side of console aft door down lower.

The box is cool, but can be a pita when you need to get in there. Mine was removed and replaced with flat alum dash that you could get from say frontpanelexpress.com. Maybe if the bottom of the box was cutoff, would allow better access with rotection from condensation drips.

Your project is realy coming along. The console is the fun bit. Maybe just cut out the absolute minimum for now and get her running, then think about the rest.

RyanPratt · 29 December 2013, 00:40

also ICOM makes a really nice hidden mount VHF so all you see is the MIC.

IC-M400BB VHF Marine Transceiver - Features - Icom America

Bigtalljv · 29 December 2013, 01:29

I don't want to cut into the console any more. I like it clean and free of clutter. There just isn't that much stuff so I think I can get it all in there. I could pull the ignition panel apart to save space. The gauges are all pretty much optional. I've never had more than a tach with alarms so I know that can be enough. Just lots of options. I want to keep the box to contain the wiring as I have access to the backside under the console for storage, I don't need stuff getting snagged. I have a couple friends with a CNC plasma cutter and another with a water jet so I'll do the panels myself

also means I don't have to get it perfect the first time. I only wish we had some place to get it anodized locally. Paint and powdercoat are my local options.

That icom is cool but $400!

Jason

clloyd · 03 January 2014, 01:08

Not even half a boat dollar, lol.

Console is a personal preference, so if that is the way you want to go, then more power to you. Looking forward to see the final result.

jyasaki · 07 January 2014, 15:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

I want to keep the box to contain the wiring as I have access to the backside under the console for storage, I don't need stuff getting snagged.

One other option would be to install panels on spacers over the wiring. Anything tossed in as storage would sit against the panels rather than meshing with the previously permanent wiring.

jky

Bigtalljv · 07 January 2014, 17:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

One other option would be to install panels on spacers over the wiring. Anything tossed in as storage would sit against the panels rather than meshing with the previously permanent wiring.

jky

Yep, already thought about that. The backboard is against the stern wall of the console. all the battery switches and power wiring is exposed there. I definitely want a cover over it. I have some ideas but not sure how I'll do it exactly. Probably mount some aluminum angle to the sides of the console and mount to that. I just need to be able to get that cover off with minimal tools....

jason

Bigtalljv · 13 January 2014, 02:10

A little more progress. I got all the connections to the engine run and mostly buttoned up. I'm just stuck with trying to get the hydraulic hoses to lay down in some neat fashion. They only want to bend the way they were coiled up. Do I fight them or try to twist the whole length now that I have run them through the chase tubes? That seemed to be the kicker, right turn, down turn, forward and they got angry.

Also got the basic electric wired, power to the engine and the batteries and switches installed. No pictures of that. It's neat but I have wires that cross over others so it's not fit to be seen.

Jason

Bigtalljv · 05 February 2014, 06:52

Getting closer. my leaning post showed up today. I got that measured out so then I could put in my new hatch. Took my nice new deck and chopped it up.

ncp · 05 February 2014, 16:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigtalljv

I got that measured out so then I could put in my new hatch.

Old Freeman or new Freeman hatch? If you've cleaned up the old one, any tips on lubricating it up?

How does the leaning post look?

clloyd · 05 February 2014, 16:22

This is the aft deck? Looking good. Project is coming along nicely now.

Question, you cut the top off your old tank and used that forward right? How heavy is that thing? I might do the same as a temporary thing and then fabricate a lighter one later. Or maybe it's not worth reusing the old tank top. Not sure.

Bigtalljv · 05 February 2014, 16:41

the leaning post looks great. 30" wide fits the boat perfectly. I'll get some better pics later.

yes, my new aft deck. I had moved the console forward 12" and lost rear drive cover so I had made this out of some 3/4 ply and glassed it.

Old Bomar hatch from the master of yellow inflatable builds. Bomar seems to be the supplier through time. My forward one was a very old one, this is a newer model. He even cut out the deck ring you see on the second picture so it makes install that much easier.

Lubricating what? The handle? It's easy and a PITA all at the same time. Hard part is all the screws on both mine are seized nice and tight. If you can get it apart the guts are easy. Two standard size grease seals and a plastic bushing. They sell rebuild kits for $45 with all the parts at Hamilton Marine and such. I rebuilt (new guts and a new fabricated handle) the forward hatch and it works like a charm.

The top plate is like 20 or 30 lbs, it's heavy. They didn't skimp on anything, bigger must be better. It's not too hard to chop up the old tank once you know the baffle is plug welded to the top and you have to get in there and cut that off too.

Bigtalljv · 05 February 2014, 19:26

Leaning post. 36" tall. (I'm 6'7") and 30" wide. If I sell a kid I can get a 50q yeti under it. Has 25" width for cooler.

Jason