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Old 19 October 2012, 16:53   #21
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The guy I use said it would be £174 but there are two different types of bearings depending on the chassis number.

Hope that helps.
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Old 20 October 2012, 19:08   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisper View Post
there are two different types of bearings depending on the chassis number.

Hope that helps.
You worried me there !! The ones I've got look fine, I've got the old ones out now the only thing I'm struggling with is the bearing races. The instructions say to 'drift them out' - which I took to mean put a screwdriver on the lip & keep tapping around with a hammer - but they don't seem to be shifting. The videos seem to gloss over that part so does anyone have any tips ?

I'm now wishing I hadn't started hitting them as they would probably have been fine to reuse!
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Old 20 October 2012, 19:52   #23
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There should be a part inside that has a grove cut in it allowing a "drift" to access the race. A drift is usually referred to as a hardened round piece of metal. Get a BIG hammer and whale on it. Watch the fingers. You can use lock grip pliers to keep your fingers away. There is a special tool for that purpose too. Also make sure to support the bottom edge leaving the bearing race space to fall out.

The drift I use is longer than these but you get the point.


Bearing races are never fine to reuse, unless you are reusing the bearings too.

I do not recommend using a chisel like this guy does as a drift is the proper tool. Note this is for tapered wheel bearings.

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Old 28 October 2012, 16:48   #24
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Thanks for all your help, wheel bearing done & MOT now passed !!
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Old 30 October 2012, 22:05   #25
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Nice one
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