Help with repairing sump.

kerny · 10 October 2013, 19:09

I have some scabs underneath the sump on my terrano and I am loosing quite a bit of oil, I have priced one up from Nissan and its ££££'s also it will be a big job to fit because one side of the axle will have to be moved.

Is there some sort of metal filler I could use and if so which make or brand would be best thanks.

paddlers · 10 October 2013, 19:26

I had some success with the stuff that patches petrol tanks. Depends how clean you can get it !

TUFTY · 10 October 2013, 20:05

Have you ever used JB Weld? It might work.

willk · 10 October 2013, 20:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

I have some scabs underneath the sump on my terrano and I am loosing quite a bit of oil

I should get her "seen to" mate. Sounds like she's been slippin' out at night and sh@ggin' Landys

spartacus · 10 October 2013, 20:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

I have some scabs underneath the sump on my terrano and I am loosing quite a bit of oil, I have priced one up from Nissan and its ££££'s also it will be a big job to fit because one side of the axle will have to be moved.

Is there some sort of metal filler I could use and if so which make or brand would be best thanks.

According to Honest John its a 4.5 hour job, remove diff/axle/carrier.

No experience of JB Weld, but have used Chemical Metal on an old Yammie petrol tank which lasted for a few years.

Dhf · 10 October 2013, 21:28

+1 for chemical metal, I've used it to repair a suzi motorbike gearbox casing which held good, but I've not seen this stuff in the shops for a while, might be worth calling a few scrappiies.

Failing that mix some wood shavings with STP, that'll clog the crack from the inside

Nos4r2 · 10 October 2013, 21:30

JB weld will probably work. It's better than Chemical Metal- but you need to get it as clean as you would clean Hypalon for a tube patch and have abraded bare metal for it to attach to. Aluminium Oxide paper will do it.

Chris Caton · 10 October 2013, 21:56

hmmmmm ................. think you will need to drain the oil out n keep cleaning it off till no more creeps through before anything will get a chance to get a good grip...... good luck with that one Kerny

spartacus · 10 October 2013, 22:03

Run the car to temperature then pull the sump plug. Only trouble with blisters on the sump is potentially how big the hole can be. Try a wire brush head attachment on a drill to take worst off, then down to oxide paper to key. Also look at repainting sump afterwards, using zinc primer.

I'd try the JB stuff. Just watched a youtube promo.

A1an · 10 October 2013, 22:26

Personally I would stump up the cash and get it done.

kerny · 10 October 2013, 23:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by willk

I should get her "seen to" mate. Sounds like she's been slippin' out at night and sh@ggin' Landys

I guess thats were the rot set in ... the slag

kerny · 11 October 2013, 00:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

JB weld will probably work. It's better than Chemical Metal- but you need to get it as clean as you would clean Hypalon for a tube patch and have abraded bare metal for it to attach to. Aluminium Oxide paper will do it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

Run the car to temperature then pull the sump plug. Only trouble with blisters on the sump is potentially how big the hole can be. Try a wire brush head attachment on a drill to take worst off, then down to oxide paper to key. Also look at repainting sump afterwards, using zinc primer.

I'd try the JB stuff. Just watched a youtube promo.

Thanks I will give it a go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by A1an

Personally I would stump up the cash and get it done.

I agree with you but I think that it is worth a try with JB weld first and if it doesn't work then new sump it is .... cos I love my motor

Thanks very much for your input guys

shawboy · 14 October 2013, 22:21

Hi mate you sould get a new mechanic key made a new sump for is mates offroader and we can weld up f in land rovers day in and out repairing a sump would be no prob next time your call in i will look at it mate

beamishken · 14 October 2013, 23:19

I've welded a few in situ in the past not difficult if you have access just drop the oil & put the plug back in then you don't light up the residue as there's no oxygen to burn

worth a try if the car isn't worth much Id expect the chemical metals to let go after a while even if you can get them to seal initially due to the expansion & contraction going on

kerny · 17 October 2013, 08:33

So far so good

Pikey Dave · 17 October 2013, 10:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by beamishken

...worth a try if the car isn't worth much

It's a Terrano, how much can it be worth

shawboy · 17 October 2013, 10:43

Hi mate its kerny and i would say around a tener lol

tony t · 29 October 2013, 23:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawboy

Hi mate its kerny and i would say around a tener lol

That's what he'd have to pay the scrap man to take it way

kerny · 29 October 2013, 23:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawboy

Hi mate its kerny and i would say around a tener lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony t

That's what he'd have to pay the scrap man to take it way

Bring yer tools with you on the Ullswater trip Shaw, there will be plenty LR'S there, it will more than pay for your weekend mate

bosun · 15 December 2013, 16:35

'Honest Johns' real name is Peter and he hangs around with the real car dealers at car auctions, he's a journalist not a dealer, I used to see him at BCA Blackbushe all the time but never seen him buy anything except tea.