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05 March 2019, 22:09
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
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Alko axle with flange locknut
Hi
I’ve got an Alko axle on a trailer which I’ve just replaced the bearings on. I was expecting to find a castle nut with split pin but there is a locking nut with a flange at the top, it was locked in place by the edge of the flange being pressed or punched.
Is there a special tool for this job or do you whack it with a punch to dent the flange in to the split axle stub? I’ve got a new nut, the picture is of the old one while I was removing it.
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05 March 2019, 22:20
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,533
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It's a one shot nut one use only I forget the torque but it's quite high if you measure it its elliptical which is how it works
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05 March 2019, 22:31
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the reply. The one shot nuts are usually around 290nm. This flange locknut only does up finger tight, it would usually be held in by a castle but and split pin but this axle needs this flange nut, I had never seen one before until I took it to bits!!
I’ve googled endlessly but can’t find out if there is s tool or you damage the flange with a punch tool.
There was another thread on this forum a few years ago where someone had the same nut but there was no mention of how the guy secured it. @spartacus?
Edit: just realised the photo I uploaded can’t be seen, not sure what has happened to it.
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06 March 2019, 07:17
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,533
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06 March 2019, 07:33
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadside
Hi
I’ve got an Alko axle on a trailer which I’ve just replaced the bearings on. I was expecting to find a castle nut with split pin but there is a locking nut with a flange at the top, it was locked in place by the edge of the flange being pressed or punched.
Is there a special tool for this job or do you whack it with a punch to dent the flange in to the split axle stub? I’ve got a new nut, the picture is of the old one while I was removing it.
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What type of bearings are they? Taper roller or sealed waterproof ball?
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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06 March 2019, 07:40
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,533
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is it a washer under the nut that should just be folded up on two sides of the nut if so ive always done it with pliers and a hammer
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06 March 2019, 08:24
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
What type of bearings are they? Taper roller or sealed waterproof ball?
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They are taper roller bearings.
Here’s a link to the nut im talking about
https://www.trailertek.com/al-ko-hub-nut-special-b-for-stub-axles-without-split-pin
A bit more googling has shown this sort of but was once common on car wheel bearings. It’s apparently a stake nut and you use an air chisel to push the collar in to the split axle, I haven’t got one of them so screwdriver and lump hammer it is for me!!!!
Thanks for all the replies.
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06 March 2019, 08:26
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
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Here’s what it looks like when fixed in place.
https://goo.gl/images/7EviWa
If anyone has ideas on the easiest way to fix and remove then I’m all ears :-)
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06 March 2019, 08:28
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadside
Here’s what it looks like when fixed in place.
https://goo.gl/images/7EviWa
If anyone has ideas on the easiest way to fix and remove then I’m all ears :-)
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torque up hit with a hammer & flat punch job done drive pointed punch underneath to remove
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06 March 2019, 08:47
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
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Great, thanks I will give that a shot.
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06 March 2019, 10:13
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,184
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New one on me that, every day’s a skool day[emoji106]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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06 March 2019, 12:05
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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You need to have a look at your pics again. The nuts in your pics aren't the same.
Note the difference between the three.
The staked one in the youtube video has a thinner section above the hex to enable staking into the slot on the threaded end of the stub axle. It has a larger flat area at the bearing end, effectively a built in washer.
The fieldfare 'alko style' one is the oneshot type & not staked.
But if you actually have the nut pictured in your link to TrailerTek then that is a staked hub nut. I wouldn't be surprised to find a washer between that nut & the bearing.
Staked hub nuts of the video type/TrailerTek type aren't unusual on cars - our Pug 306s had them on the rears.
To remove them it helps to use a pointed punch to ease the staked in part out which makes them easier to remove OR a breaker bar on a socket & brute force which will push the staked part out.
I have reused staked ones of that type providing the metal in the staked area hasn't broken away during removal but it is preferable to use new.
Use a flat ended tool & a hammer - or suitable piece of steel - to stake. Punch or big screwdriver works for me.
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06 March 2019, 13:28
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 11
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Thanks Paintman, I picked up the stake nut from Trailertek yesterday, you are right there is a washer that goes underneath it.
Thanks for the pointer about removing and reinstalling. It’s good to know people do this with a hand tool and hammer. I wasn’t sure I could put enough force to deform the nut in to the slot, but now I know it just needs to be hit really firmly!
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06 March 2019, 16:57
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Falmouth
Boat name: Three Girls
Make: Zodiac 550 Pro
Length: 5m +
Engine: O/B Yamaha 50hp
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 61
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I used a 3/4" drive torque wrench with a standard 24mm?. socket, and a piece of scaffold pole.
It took some force to undo it.
The nut is supposedly single use, however i have reused it a few times.
A standard 1/2" drive bar is not strong enough. I managed to shear off the square end and thus ruin a 1/2" torque wrench.
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06 March 2019, 17:16
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobg
I used a 3/4" drive torque wrench with a standard 24mm?. socket, and a piece of scaffold pole.
It took some force to undo it.
The nut is supposedly single use, however i have reused it a few times.
A standard 1/2" drive bar is not strong enough. I managed to shear off the square end and thus ruin a 1/2" torque wrench.
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Different nut, that’ll be the one shot.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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