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26 February 2008, 10:49
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Bending Trailer
wonder if you RIBnet peeps could give me some advice please?
I bought an Admiral trailer last year for my Osprey, I've launched and recovered about 10 times with it and on the last 3 I've noticed this bending draw bar. There was always a little bend there as part of the design, but as a weak spot it has taken to bending when the weight of the boat is on the rear rollers whilst attached to the car. It's all a little tight around the area for reinforcing with a plate top and bottom, so any Ideas?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
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26 February 2008, 11:11
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: London/Oxford
Make: Ribcrafts
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp/2x115hp
MMSI: 235090215
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,250
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Looks like its just not up to the job.
I'd take it back and either get it strengthen or insist on your money back as not fit for purpose.
Chris
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26 February 2008, 11:16
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: extreme 24
Length: 7m +
Engine: merc 6.2 320hp
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 711
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told you that console was to big,the trailer is bending right under it
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26 February 2008, 11:28
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Well I can't take it back as Admiral Trailers ceased trading last year.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
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26 February 2008, 11:29
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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as chris says I would agree that the trailer just does not look strong enough to take the load as the boat is quite heavy, on my trailer the arms meet a lot further forward which in my mind gives a much stronger trailer.
I would be seriously worried and be on the phone to admiral, if you need a pic of where my arms meet in relation to the boat etc then drop me a pm, but before friday as we are off to a warmer place
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26 February 2008, 11:29
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Another example of 'professional work'.
Take it back to them.
Edit:
Quote:
Well I can't take it back as Admiral Trailers ceased trading last year.
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Oops, I was too slow.
You need more vertical height in the draw bar and possibly a thicker wall section. Getting the rails to join further forward will help as will ensuring the join is rigid to prevent it working as a pivot. Also, having the cross member further to the rear will reduce the bending moment.
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JW.
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26 February 2008, 11:29
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#7
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Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl
told you that console was to big,the trailer is bending right under it
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26 February 2008, 11:31
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
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Posts: 7,866
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This thread is developing too quickly
Taking it back to Admiral is not possible as they are no longer in business
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Andy
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26 February 2008, 11:38
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
Well I can't take it back as Admiral Trailers ceased trading last year.
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Hows abouta parallel bar same width as the drawbar, then use half a dozen "long reach" U- bolts and backing plates to "laminate" a stronger bend?
Option 2 (messier) Cut the current drawbar with enough left sticking forward to bolt the new, straight one to that you can then install "on top" of the stub of the old one and sholudn't alter your angl of attaxck (so to speak) too much. You might (difficult to tel lform the photos) be able to use the Roller (replace it with a cast "bolt on" type) be able touse the roller base as a clamp to the crossbar too?
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26 February 2008, 11:46
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: London/Oxford
Make: Ribcrafts
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp/2x115hp
MMSI: 235090215
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Posts: 2,250
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Hmm. Bugger that they are out of business.
Try inserting a slighty smaller box section inside the draw bar (main beam from the hitch) which will straighten it out and then weld it in place. If you can get the inner box sectioned galvanised as well that will help.
However - make sure your repair the damage to the galvanising after you have welded it in place.
Plus I'm make an effort to float your boat on and off the trailer from now on rather than pushing of/driving on /winching on.
Chris
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26 February 2008, 11:47
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: London/Oxford
Make: Ribcrafts
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp/2x115hp
MMSI: 235090215
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,250
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You'll prob have to heat the draw bar before you put the smaller section in by the way.
Chris
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26 February 2008, 12:21
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Kikican
Make: Vipermax 7
Length: 7m +
Engine: F250 / FT9.9 Aux
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 250
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The problem is that the poor two bolt arrangment means that none of the bending moment is resisted by the a-frame attachment plates and therefore the force is transferred to the prebent section of the drawbar inside the a-frame which is already weakened by the bending You will not be able to internally sleeve the pre-bent section properly - it will just bend again at the end of the sleeve or where the sleeve does not contact the old section well. As a minimum you would need to replace the drawbar with a much heavier section. Getting this type of thing made up is normally really cheap. Even getting the stuff properly galvanised is cheap.
Got a whole 20 foot catamaran trailer with funky sliding supports and racks etc made up for £200 plus £70 for galvanising. Its all the coupling, axles, wheels, rollers & winch stuff etc that makes it expensive (ended up about £2000). I would consider replacing the whole frame with one where the a-frame extends much farther forward and is welded to the drawbar.
Richard
Richard
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26 February 2008, 13:55
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Selman
The problem is that the poor two bolt arrangment means that none of the bending moment is resisted by the a-frame attachment plates and therefore the force is transferred to the prebent section of the drawbar inside the a-frame which is already weakened by the bending You will not be able to internally sleeve the pre-bent section properly - it will just bend again at the end of the sleeve or where the sleeve does not contact the old section well. As a minimum you would need to replace the drawbar with a much heavier section. Getting this type of thing made up is normally really cheap. Even getting the stuff properly galvanised is cheap.
Got a whole 20 foot catamaran trailer with funky sliding supports and racks etc made up for £200 plus £70 for galvanising. Its all the coupling, axles, wheels, rollers & winch stuff etc that makes it expensive (ended up about £2000). I would consider replacing the whole frame with one where the a-frame extends much farther forward and is welded to the drawbar.
Richard
Richard
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I would agree with everything you said, except replacing the frame (too many pennies) I was thinking along the lines of additional plates welded to the existing ones where I could get at least 6 bolts clamping the bar, I'll also be looking at a heavyer duty draw bar too.
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Andy
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26 February 2008, 13:59
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Boat in Haslar Marina for a fortnight (see Jimbo) trailer up to Degraff in Surrey for some mods before spring arrives and the world goes mad, there is also Hayling Trailers but there galvansing isn't as good.
Presumably it buckled in that direction as you winched the boat back on the trailer rather than when the boat is fully on the trailer.
Pete
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26 February 2008, 14:16
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Andy, my trailer is built in a similar way to yours but the drawbar attachment is as shown on the picture below. It is good to have the angle iron a little longer than shown because it flexes more easily to clamp against the drawbar. It would be easy enough to modify yours into a similat arrangement.
If welding your galvanised parts, it's good to use stainless welding wire because some of the chromium migrates into the mild steel tube and it gives that area around the weld a bit of rust resistance.
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JW.
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26 February 2008, 14:19
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
Boat in Haslar Marina for a fortnight (see Jimbo) trailer up to Degraff in Surrey for some mods before spring arrives and the world goes mad, there is also Hayling Trailers but there galvansing isn't as good.
Presumably it buckled in that direction as you winched the boat back on the trailer rather than when the boat is fully on the trailer.
Pete
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Yes Pete you are right, it was bending as the boat is being winched.
I'll send some emails and get some veiws of trailer companies.
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Andy
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26 February 2008, 14:21
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
I'll send some emails and get some veiws of trailer companies.
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And then you'll be relying on those professionals again!
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JW.
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26 February 2008, 14:26
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#18
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Member
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Town: Fareham
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
And then you'll be relying on those professionals again!
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Yeh, I know
My only trouble about re-inforcing the area is that the hull is only about 1.5 - 2" above it all, I guess I can install spacers on the two front roller banks to move the hull in an upwards direction.
I like the idea of angle iron though, if it gets welded the frame will need to be galvanized again wouldn't it?
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26 February 2008, 14:32
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
And then you'll be relying on those professionals again!
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Ah, but were talking about Arthur DeGraff here, think he stayed on in this country after the romans left, so has made a few trailers in his time.
Pete
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26 February 2008, 14:37
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
I like the idea of angle iron though, if it gets welded the frame will need to be galvanized again wouldn't it?
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If you can come by some galvanised angle, just weld it up with stainless wire and give it a lick of paint each year. I see me bolts are needing a wee touch in too...
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