Best trailer for long distance towing? - Page 3

Bigmuz7 · 20 July 2010, 20:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julie

Oi You're messing up my genuine thread again!!!!!! Least nothings been removed (yet)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

and there's me thinking I'd given you excellent purchasing advice and educated Dowhilldai in the process!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

Is your trailer braked

Go easy on 'im .. hes only tryin' his best .. not much Zen in that last post though

Rogue Wave · 21 July 2010, 07:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigmuz7

Not much Zen in that last post though

more like Zena

Julie · 21 July 2010, 07:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

and there's me thinking I'd given you excellent purchasing advice and educated Dowhilldai in the process!

You have Thankyou...

No my trailer isn't braked. Would that make a difference? I guess it'd be more parts that I wouldn't have looked after in 8 years?

Julie

Rogue Wave · 21 July 2010, 08:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julie

You have Thankyou...

No my trailer isn't braked. Would that make a difference? I guess it'd be more parts that I wouldn't have looked after in 8 years?

Julie

yep it makes servicing a lot eadier

Cgeck tyres doe cracks'leaking valves and correct pressure
replace wheel bearings pack with waterproof grease
replace winch strap
lube/clean winch
;ube clean hitch
replace any dodgy keel rollers
recarpet bunks if needed
replace any rusty bolts with Stainless a4 types (Screwfix)

RPH leisure on ebay are pretty good for bits or Towsure

Julie · 21 July 2010, 08:34

Guess I'd better invest in some blue overalls, or buy someone a pint (or 8) to get all that done

Rogue Wave · 21 July 2010, 08:48

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/88353/...ze-M-36-W-31-L

Julie · 21 July 2010, 09:22

Thanks... is the hard hat recommended too?

I'd better tie my hair up and get down right dirty!

9D280 · 21 July 2010, 10:11

Yep, before this heads fore the bilges, if you're not braked then the number of things that can go wrong (i.e the brakes!) are well reduced.

Nos' list is pretty exhaustive.

To put it in perspective, my Snipe Dinghy trailer is still going strong on the bearings it came with in 1986 (and no idea how ling they'd been going before that). The suspension units are now on their way out, but the bearings just keep rolling....... My box trailer has had one set of bearings in about 20 years, it's on old Mini Hubs with taper rollers.

Moral of the story- if you keep them lubed, they'll keep turning.

Oh, and the comments about flushing systems are also irrelevant, as there's nothing to flush!

Rogue Wave · 22 July 2010, 00:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

RW: Have you ever encountered the good products of CLH Trailers in St Clears?

Trago Mills and he's no brawd of mine

funny enough I went to visit Rock Steady in his compound today and next door was a boat on a CLH trailer. I shall put my anorak on tomorrow and have a good look

Downhilldai · 22 July 2010, 00:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

funny enough I went to visit Rock Steady in his compound today and next door was a boat on a CLH trailer. I shall put my anorak on tomorrow and have a good look

What, an Avon & a CLH trailer in the same compound, all that way from Carmarthenshire? You lucky thing

Bigmuz7 · 22 July 2010, 21:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julie

No my trailer isn't braked.

oh my lack of attention .. that would have got me the belt in my schoolboy days.. Rogue, the Karma is still with you man...

Into The Blue · 22 July 2010, 21:50

But isn't the real question should the trailer be braked?
With a 5mtr rib all up with kit, you've got to be pushing 750kg pretty close.

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37011

Earlier discussion on estimated weights.
Worth thinking about

9D280 · 23 July 2010, 11:55

Public weighbridge at Stirling by the A85 junction will answer that. (if you don't need a printout, it's operational 24/7 and free) I suspect there's probably one closer to you tho')

Julie · 25 July 2010, 20:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Into The Blue

But isn't the real question should the trailer be braked?

Too many choices…. My trailer came as a package with the RIB and engine when I bought it, so I assume it’s ok not braked?

I tied the hair back and replaced the bearings. All shiny and new now. Took it for a test run and seems ok……… My next long trip will tell (with all the spares, just in case!)

Bigmuz7 · 25 July 2010, 22:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julie

Too many choices…. My trailer came as a package with the RIB and engine when I bought it, so I assume it’s ok not braked?

I tied the hair back and replaced the bearings. All shiny and new now. Took it for a test run and seems ok……… My next long trip will tell (with all the spares, just in case!)

How did you torque your hub for bearing free play with new bearings ? .. not a trick question

.. I did mine recently and was in two minds ?

BruceB · 25 July 2010, 23:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Julie

Too many choices…. My trailer came as a package with the RIB and engine when I bought it, so I assume it’s ok not braked?

There was a well known case a few years ago where a northern Police diving unit bought a RIB package built specially for them.
When they stuck the whole kit and caboodle on the weighbridge after taking it back to base it was grossly overweighted for the trailer.
RIB packages from some "volume" manufacturers are sometimes sold with as cheap a trailer as possible and usually fail to take into account all the extra weight over and top of the basic hull, engine and console.
I would check if I was at all unsure about the all up weight of my RIB and trailer. There are certainly a large number of people in this area that run around with grossly underated trailers for their ribs because they have decided brakes are too much hassle.

Rogue Wave · 26 July 2010, 00:01

But if all thats gone wrong with the trailer in 8 years is 1 set of (unserviced ?) bearings going North then that's kinda like a trailer that can handle the load.

Searider · 26 July 2010, 01:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Into The Blue

But isn't the real question should the trailer be braked?
With a 5mtr rib all up with kit, you've got to be pushing 750kg pretty close.

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37011

Earlier discussion on estimated weights.
Worth thinking about

It's not worth THINKING about. There's too much "thinking about" stuff on the internet. With a 5.4m rib, all up with kit, you're just as likely to be comfortably under 750kg:

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...earider+weight

Post #7

Bigmuz7 · 26 July 2010, 09:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceB

There was a well known case a few years ago where a northern Police diving unit bought a RIB package built specially for them.
When they stuck the whole kit and caboodle on the weighbridge after taking it back to base it was grossly overweighted for the trailer.
RIB packages from some "volume" manufacturers are sometimes sold with as cheap a trailer as possible and usually fail to take into account all the extra weight over and top of the basic hull, engine and console.
I would check if I was at all unsure about the all up weight of my RIB and trailer. There are certainly a large number of people in this area that run around with grossly underated trailers for their ribs because they have decided brakes are too much hassle.

Did you get yours replated after you got the extra axle on it ?

Julie · 26 July 2010, 10:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigmuz7

How did you torque your hub for bearing free play with new bearings ? .. not a trick question

.. I did mine recently and was in two minds ?

Before the weekend I'd have said 'you were having a laf' asking me this question! But now I know what you're talking about!

Anyway I followed the trusty instructions

I tied the nut 'fingertight' then back 1 castle. (If that makes any sense!!!!!!!!)

It all worked fine on my 10 mile testing trip.......So I'd like to hope that's job done!