Brake flush - hozelock fitting

[lakelandterrier]

I've made my own kitfro my brakes single axle Rapide

Standard hose into the hub flush port each side - warmed the hose in boiling water to make it malliable to fit inside the port before cooling. Cable-tied hose to along trailer to front on each side. Connected to Hozelock T piece,

Now connect hose T fitting to flush both hubs at same time whilst doing other post trip jobs.

Flush engine separately.

Simples and cost 10 quid or less

LT

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by mikew4

Disagree.

Will be using engine flush port and engine will be off. If there is enough water pressure to flush, it will be evident by the flow from the tell tale. If flow from tell tale is poor, then I have a problem.

i only know from my suzuiki's when you just use the flush port [engine off as it should be ] and you flush through when you take the hose off water comes back out the flush that water is under pressure from being right at the top of the engine block plus the pressure caused by the tell tail small bore that pressure in its self will be enough to prevent engine flush IMO.
my bramber trailer had single flush ports on each wheel with the outlet at the top of the back plate.i fail to see what your gaining what your losing is not flushing the engine properly and to be honest i am not a big fan of cold flushing an engine i prefer a bin and run the engine salt dilutes better in warm water OMO

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

i only know from my suzuiki's when you just use the flush port [engine off as it should be ] and you flush through when you take the hose off water comes back out the flush that water is under pressure from being right at the top of the engine block plus the pressure caused by the tell tail small bore that pressure in its self will be enough to prevent engine flush IMO.

my bramber trailer had single flush ports on each wheel with the outlet at the top of the back plate.i fail to see what your gaining what your losing is not flushing the engine properly and to be honest i am not a big fan of cold flushing an engine i prefer a bin and run the engine salt dilutes better in warm water OMO

+1[emoji106] never bothered using the flushing ports on any engines I've owned. I can't see the point of flushing an engine that ain't running. But hey Jeff! What do we know?[emoji57]

[jeffstevens763@g]

totally agree dave your never going to flush a cold engine properly and that flush port is just another bit that can fail not a fan of em

[Last Tango]

Originally Posted by mikew4

Disagree.

Will be using engine flush port and engine will be off. If there is enough water pressure to flush, it will be evident by the flow from the tell tale. If flow from tell tale is poor, then I have a problem.

That might flush the engine. It won't flush the water pump and it's galleries.
I'd also guess that the thermostat won't open with a cold engine and cold water so that might restrict the flow through the cylinder head.

[mikew4]

Update - got some garden hose, a 3-way hozelock joiner and some hozelock connectors. After giving it some thought, concluded it was best to have the connector mounted up high, on the winch tower. Works a treat !

[Rib Martin]

Great idea...... I have the same hubs with flush holes [emoji106]

[mikew4]

Refined my brake flush a little. A lot neater now.

First attempt:


Final result:


Of course with hindsight, the end result is bleeding obvious. But then originally, I had no idea that Hozelock did a female-male converter.

This flush thing is the dogs danglies now....just pisses me off royally that the trailer manufacturers don't offer this as a cost option.

[9D280]

I have a variation on that where I have a male connector drilled and tie wrapped to the frame to fit the hose end to for travel.

Keeps it from falling about and getting damaged. Also helps keep the o-ring and inside of the hose clean

[jambo]

My system is bored thru one mudguard with connector protruding then a line to each hub. Means less hose and less time.