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30 December 2018, 18:08
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: England
Boat name: n/a
Make: n/a
Length: no boat
Engine: n/a
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 368
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Braked trailer service
Hi
We have a trailer that has been sat outside for a bit and could do with some maintenance.
I don't know much about trailers and certainly not braked ones so would appreciate some pointers on where to start.
When moving the trailer it does sound like something isn't as loose as it should be. Brakes or bearings?
The bearings I'm used to servicing are all on unbraked trailers where you pop the plastic cap off, these don't look the same.
I've attached some photos, hopefully someone can give me some pointers.
Many thanks.
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30 December 2018, 18:52
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe
Boat name: The Black Pig
Make: Ranieri
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60c hp tohatsu
MMSI: 235038018
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 443
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Looks like these may be bearing buddies/savers
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30 December 2018, 19:19
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,004
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Its just a metal cap just knock it off with a hammer & screwdriver or use a pry bar to lever it off behind the ridge in the cap
Youll find the bearing retaining nut under the cap
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30 December 2018, 19:21
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#4
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Member
Country: Ireland
Boat name: Joy Ride
Make: Ribtec655CamelTrophy
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 optimax
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 208
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They’re just the dust caps. Just knock them off with a mallet/block of wood and a hammer.
If the bearings feel ok and grease is not compromised I’d start by greasing up all the grease nipples (lithium based grease). Tow the trailer around a bit and actuate the brakes a few times... they don’t like to be laid up for too long, especially if you had the hand brake on [emoji1303]
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30 December 2018, 19:25
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#5
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Member
Country: Ireland
Boat name: Joy Ride
Make: Ribtec655CamelTrophy
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 optimax
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 208
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I’d also lubricate the cables here also.... wd 40 or similar to make sure they’re moving [emoji1303]
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30 December 2018, 22:06
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: suffolk
Boat name: not yet
Make: Gemini + XS
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140/merc 60
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,299
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[QUOTE=rigi36;78793maintenance
When moving the trailer it does sound like something isn't as loose as it should be. Brakes or bearings
Many thanks.[/QUOTE]
Personally i would expect brake shoes to be rubbing ,however looking at your picture two i am not sure you have any brake shoes fitted as the tiny slits in the backplates should be showing the tails of springs which hold the shoes flat onto the backplates , not sure but worth a look
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31 December 2018, 08:01
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,004
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Only sure way to check the brakes is strip the drums off remove the shoes and clean and regrease everything that moves or slides. Your not supposed to grease inside drums but on a boat trailer its essential in my opinion.
While apart pull the cables in and out as far as you can and smear grease on the ends behind the dust covers & pump grease into the inline grease points if fitted.
Trying to cut corners is asking for trouble
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31 December 2018, 11:57
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Denny
Boat name: Highland Bluewater
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken
Only sure way to check the brakes is strip the drums off remove the shoes and clean and regrease everything that moves or slides. Your not supposed to grease inside drums but on a boat trailer its essential in my opinion.
While apart pull the cables in and out as far as you can and smear grease on the ends behind the dust covers & pump grease into the inline grease points if fitted.
Trying to cut corners is asking for trouble
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And....having gone this far you might as well replace the bearings while it's stripped, they're not expensive. Mines get replaced at least once a year just as a matter of course.
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31 December 2018, 12:12
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Tango
And....having gone this far you might as well replace the bearings while it's stripped, they're not expensive. Mines get replaced at least once a year just as a matter of course.
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Yep 100 % agree
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31 December 2018, 13:20
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: England
Boat name: n/a
Make: n/a
Length: no boat
Engine: n/a
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Tango
And....having gone this far you might as well replace the bearings while it's stripped, they're not expensive. Mines get replaced at least once a year just as a matter of course.
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Thanks, what's the easiest way to find out what bearings I need?
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31 December 2018, 14:33
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Denny
Boat name: Highland Bluewater
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigi36
Thanks, what's the easiest way to find out what bearings I need?
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Knock them out and check the numbers on them. Order from Ebay or local supplier.
If you can't make out the numbers take them (and the seal) to a bearing supplier and they'll ID them for you.
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31 December 2018, 16:16
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Your ID plate has all the info ring mersea trailers they do Bradley stuff
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31 December 2018, 16:42
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,004
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Take last tangos advice re sourcing bearings youll pay twice or three times the price from a trailer dealer than you will from a bearing stockist or ebay.
It doesnt matter if there cheap shit bearings they dont wear out on a boat trailer they rot away.
Rust doesnt care if your bearings are 30 quid a set or 10 quid a set they all rot away
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31 December 2018, 17:02
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Falmouth
Boat name: Three Girls
Make: Zodiac 550 Pro
Length: 5m +
Engine: O/B Yamaha 50hp
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 61
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I could not quite see the wording on the dust cover for the bearing hubs.
Does it say ALCO Waterproof?
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31 December 2018, 17:23
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: suffolk
Boat name: not yet
Make: Gemini + XS
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140/merc 60
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,299
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Looks to me like it may be indespension axle with Knott hubs , you can get a hub size by measuring the inner diameter of the brake drum <maybe 204mm and then the width of the brake shoe maybe 40mm or 50mm ,giving you 200 by say 50mm ,check out by looking at brake shoes on ebay ,say 200x50 knott , search knott and al-ko trailer brake shoes on ebay and with your dimensions you should tie it down this can then lead you to the right bearing for the hub you have got .
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31 December 2018, 17:41
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Warrington
Boat name: Seal
Make: Excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 68
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If its a Bradley trailer (and it looks like it is from the label!!), spare parts are available from:
https://www.bradleydoublelock.co.uk/...6-bearing-kits
You MAY need a small gear puller or a the correct sized drift to remove the bearings. I'd suggest that you probably need to give both the bearings and the brakes a full service - replacing any dodgy parts. I'd always suggest that moving parts on a trailer need good maintenance - you don't want a wheel skidding while you are towing.
Alternatively, you could always buy a great Indespension trailer from us - as we are marine trailer dealers for them and offer 10% discount to RIBNet members. (OK - end of advert!!).
Happy new year all.
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31 December 2018, 18:14
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: suffolk
Boat name: not yet
Make: Gemini + XS
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140/merc 60
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,299
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The bradley label in the picture is on the hitch head ,thats because it describes the spec of the hitchhead ,nothing to do with the trailer manufacturer ,should be a label on the a frame somewhere for the trailer manufacturer
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31 December 2018, 20:40
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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01 January 2019, 12:17
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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Read the sticky at the top by trailer guy. Lots of 'how to' info.
I remove the brake cables on mine annually, hang them up & put motor oil in the cup shaped end. This works its way down inside & any excess will drip out of the bottom. Same way I used to lube old motorcycle cables.
Don't leave the handbrake on when the trailer is parked up.
Very common for the shoes to rust to the drums & it can be an absolute PITA to free them off. (Some helpful soul once decided I'd forgotten to put mine on & when I came to fetch the trailer 3 weeks later it was solid. I now chain & lock in the off position)
Use wheel chocks & a wheel camp type security device to stop it rolling away.
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01 January 2019, 15:13
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#20
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Member
Country: Ireland
Boat name: Joy Ride
Make: Ribtec655CamelTrophy
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 optimax
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintman
Read the sticky at the top by trailer guy. Lots of 'how to' info.
I remove the brake cables on mine annually, hang them up & put motor oil in the cup shaped end. This works its way down inside & any excess will drip out of the bottom. Same way I used to lube old motorcycle cables.
Don't leave the handbrake on when the trailer is parked up.
Very common for the shoes to rust to the drums & it can be an absolute PITA to free them off. (Some helpful soul once decided I'd forgotten to put mine on & when I came to fetch the trailer 3 weeks later it was solid. I now chain & lock in the off position)
Use wheel chocks & a wheel camp type security device to stop it rolling away.
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This has happened to me on more than one occasion, where someone has done me a favour and pulled up the handbrake 🤬🤬
When I know the trailer will be laid up for a period, I’ve taken to disconnecting the cable ends at the compensator.
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