Destroyed Jockey Wheel - Page 2

brucehawsker · 21 June 2005, 23:40

Piccies of the trailer

The Jackeens · 21 June 2005, 23:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucehawsker

How do I tell which it is?

read the label

- it will say if its a RL 1000 or RL 1250 ( i think)

Is it difficult to move the axle forward? Please tell me how?

Very easy get someone to do it

dont do anything untill you know the load on the ball

can you lift the trailer by hand ?? ( Idont mean the whole trailer clear of the ground

that would make you |Mr incredible)

brucehawsker · 22 June 2005, 00:00

Sorry to be stupid. Where is the label, exactly?

By "someone" - do you mean a specialist trailer place or anyone with more techinical skills than me?

Are you coming to play on Thur??

The Jackeens · 22 June 2005, 00:16

[QUOTE=brucehawsker] Sorry to be stupid. Where is the label, exactly?

if my memory serves me it on the top of the main box channel 4/5 feet back from the ball.

r u pulling the piss bruce

By "someone" - do you mean a specialist trailer place or anyone with more techinical skills than me?

you may think so I couldnt possibly comment

its easy realy ,
undo the main brake rods that run down the center, raise the wheels clear of the ground by blocks under the frame, undo the U shaped nuts/bolts that hold the axil and wheel guard to the main frame 6 in total( i think ) slide the axle forward by the same amount on each side, resecure the axle and brake cable.

not responsible for any feck ups before someone else chips in

Are you coming to play on Thur??
yep but not that early (pm/evening/nite)and will probably stay in eastern end of the solent getting pissed on non alco cola

brucehawsker · 22 June 2005, 07:01

Naw, not taking the piss. I think my label is missing, but I will check later.

Thanks muchly for the instructions.

Bruce

eupa · 22 June 2005, 08:21

In my youth ( a long time ago) i use to tow with the jockey wheel clamped high on the bracket- but what happened was invarably the "wheel" would slip down and eventualy touch the road while towing. This would result in
the bearings on the JW going and the thread on the wind down mechanism becoming all "screwed " up- please excuse the pun.

The solution is very simple- take the bloody thing off when towing and use only to separate the trailer from the car- and if you see there is too much weight on the back - use a jack to take the trailer off.

It is also advisable to have always weight on the hitch. - and people who tell you that it should be in equilibirium - dont know much about towing.

Jonathan

Mark Halliday · 22 June 2005, 09:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Jackeens

its easy realy ,
undo the main brake rods that run down the center, raise the wheels clear of the ground by blocks under the frame, undo the U shaped nuts/bolts that hold the axil and wheel guard to the main frame 6 in total( i think ) slide the axle forward by the same amount on each side, resecure the axle and brake cable.

Axels are usualy fixed to a length of angle which is clamped to the frame by "U" bolts as Paul says. Just slacken the nuts. No need to take the nuts off.
It is a good idea to mark the original position of the angle on the frame with a permanent marker before you start.
It is a long winded exercise, but not difficult. You will need 3 axel stands or other supports and a trolley jack.
Move the axel a couple of inches (cm) each time, nip up the nuts, lower the trailer and try to lift the hitch with one arm. Keep going until you can just do so.
Make sure the boat is set up as it would be when you tow, fuel tank full/empty, engine up/down, kit bags stowed etc.
To reduce the hitch weight move the axel foreward. To increase the hitch weight move the axel backwards.

Measure from the ball hitch to each side of the axel to make sure the thing is on square. Otherwise the trailer will crab sideways. i.e. it will stick out further one side when on the road. Pick a feature on the axel like the fixing where the axel attaches to the angle iron to measure from.

Job done.

Mark Halliday · 22 June 2005, 09:17

Looking at your pictures, you could move the boat back on the trailer which would be a lot easier.

Plus point.
The wheels will not be so deep in the water when you launch.
Minus point.
The load will be longer.

The Jackeens · 22 June 2005, 09:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Halliday

Axels are usualy fixed to a length of angle which is clamped to the frame by "U" bolts as Paul says. Just slacken the nuts. No need to take the nuts off.
Job done.

Mark you have to take the nuys off and the U bolts as there are verticle supports for the twin hoz box channels that get in the way as you slide the axle forward. If its being moved an inch or two he may not need to completly remove them. I did as I moved the axle 18 inchs or so.

You dont have to use a jack, different technique this

lower the jockey wheel

put 2 blocks/stands or something right at the back of each end of the trailer

raise the jockey wheel and the axle will clear.

put a support at fron just incase the jocky slips.

bingo.

paul

Heres a FAQ Mark for you to compile for JK

Nick Hearne · 22 June 2005, 09:41

Bruce, do you have much weight up for would you could remove?
If I tow I would try not to have a full tank of fuel as this is well for would & adds to the nose weight! Also anchor locker up for would I remove the anchor & have it in the car! These thing can make a big difference to the trailers nose weight

I have just fitted a pneumatic tyre to help with moving the trailer around on uneven surfaces, dose mean you have to have the thing a lot higher as the wheel is bigger diameter to clear the hitch!
Nick

Matt · 22 June 2005, 09:45

And the load on the hull will be further from the transom, more likely to deform or damage the hull, unless you move the rear roller assembly back as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Halliday

Looking at your pictures, you could move the boat back on the trailer which would be a lot easier.

Plus point.
The wheels will not be so deep in the water when you launch.
Minus point.
The load will be longer.

Mark Halliday · 22 June 2005, 09:55

Fair enough Paul. I know that that works, but the it puts a hell of a strain on the jockey wheel, especially when your rear supports are at the back of the trailer.
18" .... hmmmm I thought that engine of yours was too big.

Fair point about the stifeners being in the way. I did mine with a new axel so was starting from scratch.

Brilliant idea time.
Use the stands to find the approx. axel position b4 moving the axel. I know the weight of the axel will skew this but it would give you a good starting point.
Jack up the wheel put the stands in front of the axel (in this case) and lower the wheel until the road wheel come off the deck. Check the weight.
It might work, or am I in a world of aeronautical swine?

MarkWildey · 22 June 2005, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucehawsker

Problem is I don't have bathroom scales in Lymington, and a buying a pair seems overkill.

Stop being so tight they only cost <£3.50 from Argos http://www.argos.co.uk/webapp/wcs/st...clickfrom=name

Mark

Mark Halliday · 22 June 2005, 10:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadMat

And the load on the hull will be further from the transom, more likely to deform or damage the hull, unless you move the rear roller assembly back as well.

Good point Mat
However it looks as if the rear rollers are quite cloe together so the load will on or close to the for/aft stringers, which are the strongest part of the hull.
There is probably a rib right across the back forming the front of the sump which would be as far forward as I would want the rear roller.
If there is only a small amount of movement needed, say up to a foot, it should be OK.