Drive-on trailer - windy conditions

[BogMonster]

I like that system but part of the issue with the trailer last weekend was that the relatively small keel rollers don't really hold the bow in place and as it comes up it rolls off to one side which was how I damaged the hull. What I need is for somebody to invent a bloody great big keel roller about 2ft across and about 6 inches from the top to bottom of the V, that would do the trick nicely

I really like the snap-on boat securing system too - might have to filch some of those ideas, much better than buggering around with ratchet straps and rope

[IBWET]

Originally Posted by Dan Worth

Including playing the dodgy 70's porn music on the RIBs soundsytem during the launch?

Yes to the letter..

[Apherel]

Would something like this help? These are called Eziguides - and the idea is that they are spring loaded so help align the boat over the rollers. I've never actually seen anyone use them - but they are not too expensive, and might avoid some major work.

[Simon B]

In the example wear baldy bangs his head on youtube, did he use the winch to pull the boat off or was that just the winch spooling out under gravity?

Didn't get the idea of that second off last line he clipped on, if had broke loose it would have slid off at least a metre probably two. I have seen a bottle screw used for his last connection. We take a few turns around the winch post with the painter as a supplemental line.

You can get anal though - second winch post (incase first gives way)
Multiple D rings on keel - I ve seen it probably weakened it more than strengthened.

[biffer]

as promised a look under my trailer

[jambo]

Biffer are your rollers on 'H' frame independent cradles?
J

[biffer]

Originally Posted by jambo

Biffer are your rollers on 'H' frame independent cradles?
J

the back swinging one has 40 rollers on it, not really an H more of a T.
all the rest are like a T with lugs welded on the top and the rollers are on solid 3/4inch bar again with a lug on them.
the back lot swing backwards and forward as well as side to side and the whole arm swings as well, all the rest only swing side to side.

[Stoo]

I find that most people having trouble getting square on the trailer have problems because the trailer is too far into the water. With a RIB having a deep V, you might find you can back most of the way in, but then power your way up onto the trailer (being careful of your lower unit...)

In my case, I only have about 2/3 of the bunks in the water. As I power up the boat self-centres on the bunks (I have 2 on each side).

On Sunday, we recovered the boat on a ramp that was in a river with a strong side current. I came onto the trailer at a good clip to maintain steerage, with the engine tipped up... and drove her right up into the nose chock. And this was with three sets of twin tanks and three stage bottles...

Try it and you might be surprised how well it works...

[BogMonster]

Stoo the problem is with this trailer and other similar layouts, if you F it up and miss the rollers, you run the hull up on the metal part of the trailer.

On my old trailer I used to do much as you describe, the worse the conditions the further out of the water the trailer would be but usually about 1/2 out of the water, whack the boat on with a bit of momentum and it would self centre and sit there securely whatever happened, whereas with this one you'd only need to go off a bit sideways and you'd need a lot of new gelcoat...

[jyasaki]

When I power load (which isn't all that often), I do pretty much what Stoo does, except I usually put the bunks in about halfway, rather than 2/3 (kind of trailer dependent, I'd guess. Swell and such also affects how deep you need to be.)

Having the motor trimmed way out should give your prop additional clearance, and it also tends to lift the nose of the boat, allowing it to slide up the bunks a little easier.

Normally, once I get the bow up to the stop, the boat will sit nicely on the bunks while the truck is eased up far enough to secure the winch strap and safety chain without having to get wet or balance on the tongue while you hook things up.

I don't know how this would work using a roller trailer, though, as I have zero experience with them.


jky

[Ian M]

Originally Posted by Chris

I dont know what the issue is with a roller trailer.

I regularly use mine to recover on shallow rock strewn beaches. As long as you judge it right once the bow is in between the two sets of rear rollers its easy to power the back round to straighten up and then a quick burst of power gets it onto the trailer. I just make sure that the trailer is deep enough in the first place.

Once I am almost all the way on I leave a little bit of power on then go up front and clip on the winch. Power off, engine up and winch on.

Done !

I'm with Chris on this one, always recover by myself, and I cannot remember ever having an issue. Same technique as Chris. Loads of rollers on my Rapide trailer (38) and no keel rollers. The rear most rollers give a wide enough target and once in contact self centre the boat nicely. I'd have to be wildly off target to damage the hull - there, fate has been tempted
One small admission, I normally recover on the Lymington River, a pretty benign area!!

[IBWET]

Originally Posted by Simon B

In the example wear baldy bangs his head on youtube, did he use the winch to pull the boat off or was that just the winch spooling out under gravity?

Didn't get the idea of that second off last line he clipped on, if had broke loose it would have slid off at least a metre probably two. I have seen a bottle screw used for his last connection. We take a few turns around the winch post with the painter as a supplemental line.


You can get anal though - second winch post (in case first gives way)
Multiple D rings on keel - I ve seen it probably weakened it more than strengthened.

The winch 'powers out'. I think if the trailer is working correctly, very little effort should be necessary to move the boat on it?. The benefit here to powering out, is you can be in the boat while doing it and still be in control.

If you mean the second dyneema line, I didn't copy that bit, I understood that to be a means of auto stopping the winch so as not to pull the bow eye out the boat....thought it was a bit of overkill. If you read other threads here, people talk about "the winch struggles" (similar power to mine 4500lb ) after using the system for 6 months, I think some form of auto stop is desirable...I'd fitted a 500kg hook as a safety 'break'...one inadvertent press of the in button with bow up against the snubber and it straightened this hook.

If you’re meaning the chain connection to the post; the winch isn't designed to take shock loads (bumps on the road) the Wichard connection is fast and safe so is easy to connect before you pull up the slip.


Yip I've got two external lifting eyes which are also used to lash down for trailering...

[Stoo]

Originally Posted by BogMonster

Stoo the problem is with this trailer and other similar layouts, if you F it up and miss the rollers, you run the hull up on the metal part of the trailer.

Well there is that consideration... My hull is quite deep and I actually had to have the bunk supports lengthened to make sure the keel was well clear of the metal cross bars on the trailer. I have two bunks on either side and a the gap between them nicely cradles a chine on the hull, which helps keep everything straight. A blind man could put my boat on the trailer now.

[Channel Ribs]

Stephen, have you seen Kernow's trailer thread? Lots of rollers and an entry ramp all look promising for your situation.

[m chappelow]

Video clip that may be of some intrest to you .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOcUH...eature=related

[BogMonster]

Originally Posted by m chappelow

Video clip that may be of some intrest to you .

Interesting, ta. Not sure about their idea of "strong" winds but it's probably a good typical Falklands breeze.

Lots of ideas, ta, now I just need to make up my mind which one will get me off my butt to do something