Engine position for towing - Page 2

kerny · 02 May 2013, 20:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by solent spence

The mercury manual shows these outboard trailer bars with a v for the gear case to rest in but I haven't found where to buy one in the uk. Seems like a good idea to stop the engine bouncing when towed. In fact the manual states you should not rely on the small tilt lock and rams when towing.

Who sells them in the uk I wonder??

My manual states trailer your outboard in a vertical position if not enough road clearance , tilt the outboard as needed with an accessory trailering bracket.

Like you say difficult to find one of these in the U.K.

Leapy · 02 May 2013, 20:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

Like you say difficult to find one of these in the U.K.

There may be a reason why.

Bump ... Who's had a problem towing without wood, transom saver or with the engine right, left, central, up, down ...

captnjack · 02 May 2013, 20:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leapy

There may be a reason why.

Same reason we almost never see A frames over here. They're both just bling

Dan Gurney · 02 May 2013, 21:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by captnjack

Same reason we almost never see A frames over here. They're both just bling

Where'd you put your nav lights if you've no A frame?

mister p · 02 May 2013, 21:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesF

I would expect the various twisting moments to be minimised by having the engine down, but with the heaviest part being so close to the axis it rotates about, I'm not convinced it makes a great deal of difference from a structural point of view.

The leg will exert various twisting moments, but assuming it weighs much less than the engine block and guessing that its centre of mass is between a quarter and a third of the way up, is it going to make much difference? I suspect not enough to worry about it.

If the whole engine was of a uniform density, the answer would clearly be to tow with it down, but they're not, so it isn't (necessarily).

I suspect more practical concerns are more important: if the engine's down, it might be too close to the road, if it's up it might be resting on a tilt lock that might not be quite strong enough, or a piece of wood that's not always that reliable (one of our old, unassisted manual-tilt 40hp two-strokes chewed through a chock a couple of years ago, and that was just crossing the road on a trolley).

James, you've answered your own question here, or addressed your own issue.
The engine is not of uniform density and if it is down and hanging off the back on a trailer it's moment is way up high and way over the back of the transom.
If it is raised it's mass is directly over the transom.
Bear in mind that this is without power and with the trailer bouncing.
Engine is best placed in a balanced state tilted with its weight directly above the transom, not hanging off the back.

captnjack · 02 May 2013, 22:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clamchowder

Where'd you put your nav lights if you've no A frame?

My red/green lights are mounted on the bow, white all-around on a removable pole. I almost never see A frames over here.

mister p · 02 May 2013, 22:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by captnjack

My red/green lights are mounted on the bow, white all-around on a removable pole. I almost never see A frames over here.

That's because they haven't any lights on!

captnjack · 02 May 2013, 23:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by mister p

That's because they haven't any lights on!

True dat! We don't run around in the dark. I'm further north of you and in the summer there's no shortage of daylight, over 18hrs/day.

JamesF · 03 May 2013, 01:22

Quote:

James, you've answered your own question here, or addressed your own issue.

Have I

?

Quote:

Engine is best placed in a balanced state

I think what I was trying to say was that it's never in a particularly balanced state, and the unbalancedness isn't all that dissimilar one way or the other, or doesn't feel it when I lift our engines. It seems to take about as much effort to hold a fully tilted engine up as it does to lift it when it's down.

I hope I'm not missing the point and doing this instead:

My experience of towing is pretty limited, but I think, like you, I'd have it tilted and supported, but more to keep the prop away from the road than anything else. I'd be perfectly happy with it down as well, if it were properly supported and comfortably clear of the ground.

Quote:

I towed over 550 miles last week with a 40HP 2S supported in the raised position with a piece of 2 x 2 wood. Perhaps I was taking a big risk doing that

Our bit of wood may have been affected by age and moisture after a couple of seasons on the boat

. It was about 4" x 2", but carved to fit snugly, with a dowel "handle" glued on one end.

kubcat · 03 May 2013, 09:10

I prefer down if there is enough clearance but often there isn't. The reason is when I follow boats at speed I see that those outboards that are unsupported and tilted tend to rock a lot more than those that are down all the way. This forward rear rocking cannot be good for the transom, I am thinking that over time it may lead to transom fatigue.

Maximus · 03 May 2013, 09:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers

Scotland and Wales?!!

Wow, that really is a slaap.

Mind you, if I lived anywhere near Taunton, I'd also wanna get the feck out.

No Doubt about THAT!

kerny · 03 May 2013, 10:37

It would be nice to see some pics from those members that use blocks of wood to support there engines e.g. how the wood has been shaped so that it doesn't slide down while lowering the engine on to it.

Dan Gurney · 03 May 2013, 13:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

It would be nice to see some pics from those members that use blocks of wood to support there engines e.g. how the wood has been shaped so that it doesn't slide down while lowering the engine on to it.

+1 for that

Maximus · 03 May 2013, 15:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerny

It would be nice to see some pics from those members that use blocks of wood to support there engines e.g. how the wood has been shaped so that it doesn't slide down while lowering the engine on to it.

Just a Piece of 4X4 With it long enough to Hold while the Ram Comes down Mate (Wide Profile faceing out),Presumeing you have Trim switch on the engine..(I know the E-tecs do..

)Its easy to put the Wood where it needs to go and operate the Trim down onto it..
Make sure to put it Low down where the Engine sits into the Bracket/Crossbar,you'll find theTop engine Bracket Bites into the Soft wood..That way, all..or Most of the Engine weight bears Down onto it and it aint goin Nowhere!! Simples..

You can then, (if you wish) Strap it in place to stop any Latteral Movement.

ssobol · 03 May 2013, 15:54

This is how I do it with a 90hp Honda (not on a rib). On my rib I have a transom saver that goes from the the trailer to the motor.

kerny · 03 May 2013, 16:25

The problem with mine is that when I lower the leg onto the wood it will not bite but just slides down with the leg due to it being square. If you imagine a block of wood in between it can't grip.