fitting new hub

bluerocketboy · 08 May 2009, 11:44

my hub on my trailer is feeling pretty wobbily probably indicating i could do with new bearings, would this hub with bearings (and alot of grease) http://www.banburytrailers.co.uk/pro...roducts_id=268 do the job (its the right axel diameter) as for the cost i'd rather just stick on a new hub rather than fannying around with bearings. cheers, ben.

p.s do i need a hub puller or any special tools to do the job?

m chappelow · 08 May 2009, 13:09

if they are taper roller bearings you can take the play out by removing the split pin or lock nut then tighten then nut up a bit until you get the play out but dont over tighten they need a bit of movement ,i have done that and got a further 2000 miles out of one set , a lot depends how much they have worn ,sometimes even with a new set of bearings if the grease hasent been packed in the bearing right they can sometimes need adjusting after only 50 miles or so . i wouldent have thought that you would need a hub puller unless the bearings have welded themselves to the axel either through rust or overheating .

bluerocketboy · 08 May 2009, 13:22

i'm sure they are taper roller bearings, so if i can just tighten them that'd be great! do you think the hub in the link would work as a boat trailer hub, if so i'll get one as a spare.

also to pack the bearings with grease do you use the grease nipples on the hub and inject in the grease untill no-more will go in or can you just smear a whole load in by hand?

sorry for all the questions, i'm pretty new to all this and my local boatyard wanted to charge me £60 to change one hub, which sounded a little steep.

thanks

ben

Tino · 08 May 2009, 14:02

If the bearings allow the wheel to wobble try removing the split pin tightening the castle nut by one slot.
Lift the wheel off the ground and spin the wheel.....if you hear a rumble replace the bearings..they will overheat on the road, melt the lubricating grease and fail when you need them most and at the most inconvenient time.

To replace the bearings you can do it the easy way or the difficult way...
The easy way is to buy a replacement hub as suggested (make sure that your wheels have a cut out slot for the grease nipple). Just bring the bad hub with you and this will ensure that you get the right size bearings etc. Clean the stub axle smear the stub axle and bearings with new grease. Fit the new hub with the rubber grease seal on the INSIDE. Then refit the big washer and the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut so that the wheel spins freely with a minimum of play. Squirt grease into the nipple till it squeezes out the front bearings then spin the wheel again and repeat to fill any air void. Then fit a new split pin. You might have to tighten the castle nut one slot after a short time...

I would replace both hubs at the same time because they probably have had the same mistreatment!

Fitting the new hub should take you 10 minutes...replacing bearings requires specialist equipment and patience!

Good Luck
Tino

m chappelow · 08 May 2009, 14:03

i wouldent like to say as it all depends on the size of your stub axel and if the new hub is compatable ,best way to pack a bearing is using you thumb to press the grease right into the bearing race that way here shoulent be any air pockets to start off with ,there is normaly a limited amount of grease in new bearings and a lot of mechanics dont bother repacking when fitting from new but just use the grease nipple ,.,dont forget to replace the split pin if the nut is castled or locking tags if they are fitted . if you do replace just the bearings you can press them back in place with a vice or a large nut and bolt and a couple of large washers on each end i use a socket that fits the race that way as you press them together you can get them straight .

jyasaki · 08 May 2009, 17:35

http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#packhubs

If you're going to pull the old hub, you might as well replace the bearings. You'll have to clean up the old ones to inspect them, which means repacking the bearing carriers and hub cavities anyways. Bearing sets aren't all that much (what, $20US or so?), and, apart from getting the old races out, not a lot of trouble (if somewhat messy) to replace.

jky