Guide posts

Nasher · 06 July 2013, 19:34

I'm finally getting around to finishing off the guide posts I'm fitting to my trailer. Hopefully without the arse end of the boat swinging around it will be easier for me to recover the boat by myself when required.

So to those who use them, probably more Ribnetters from over the pond to be fair, how are they set up?

Are they tight against the boat?
Or does it work best with a small, say 1/2", gap either side and allow the boat to sit to one side or another?

They are to be covered with Poly waste pipe, so will be slippery.

Cheers

Nasher

Cypman · 06 July 2013, 20:13

They can afford to be fairly tight as the tubes will compress quite easily if you are not perfectly aligned.

Peter_C · 06 July 2013, 20:19

I swear by guide poles, with my past boat if you got the bow between the poles you were on the trailer...unfortunately I do not have them on my current boat. Much of the gap is going to be determined by the bunk layout. More gap is better if the boat will center itself up as it moves forward on the trailer. If more of a flat bottom type boat and it can sit most anywhere on the bunks then the posts need to be closer in. I would say at least 30mm on each side should be good.

Got a picture of the stern of the boat on the trailer showing the bunk angles etc?

bedajim · 06 July 2013, 20:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

I'm finally getting around to finishing off the guide posts I'm fitting to my trailer. Hopefully without the arse end of the boat swinging around it will be easier for me to recover the boat by myself when required.

So to those who use them, probably more Ribnetters from over the pond to be fair, how are they set up?

Are they tight against the boat?
Or does it work best with a small, say 1/2", gap either side and allow the boat to sit to one side or another?

They are to be covered with Poly waste pipe, so will be slippery.

Cheers

Nasher

1" either side is fine forget the poly pipe
Use cheap suction hose clear PVC
What's the of od of you pipes I've got a few coils laying around

Nasher · 06 July 2013, 21:05

Thanks Guys.

It's a Roller trailer so no bunks.

I'll design in around an inch either side to start with as with my design it will be easier to bring them in a bit later than to spread them out.

The uprights are 35mm OD thick wall tube which I'm having galvanised when I've welded the box section on the bottom.

Will post some pictures once I've done it as like usual I've done it slightly differently.

Nasher.

Peter_C · 06 July 2013, 21:46

Most competition ski/wakeboard boats here have a PVC or ABS pipe fitted over the steel upright that allows it to roll. Often then a foam tubing will be fitted over that to protect even further (Of course that also makes them float which doesn't work very well as they have been known to float away, although a piece of rope inside solves the problem). To me, having something "roll along" as the boat moves forward makes sense.

jyasaki · 08 July 2013, 01:48

I've got commercial uprights: A formed piece of square steel tubing rolled to a 90 degree "L", about a foot and a half per leg. The post is a piece of 1.5" PVC pipe that slips over the steel. I don't think I've ever seen the post "roll" while recovering (or launching.)

jky

thomas · 08 July 2013, 08:35

I have a couple of pairs of posts with the attachments for the trailer if anyone needs some.

Hightower · 08 July 2013, 18:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nasher

I'm finally getting around to finishing off the guide posts I'm fitting to my trailer. Hopefully without the arse end of the boat swinging around it will be easier for me to recover the boat by myself when required.

I thought you drove your RIB on to your trailer like me? You did when I came out with you a few years ago?

Nasher · 09 July 2013, 22:27

Hey HT, how's tricks?

I do sometimes drive on, sometimes not, but am assuming either way will be easier with the guides.

The trouble I've found with driving on when you're alone, especially at a steep slip like the camber, is the boat rolling back off the trailer whilst you get out and attach the strap.
I have been known to leave it in gear whilst I jump out and attach the strap but it's a really stupid thing to do.

I've also figured out a way to have the strap on a line to one of the guide posts so I don't have to get out the boat to attach the strap to the bow eye via a short secondary strap.

Nasher.

Nasher · 18 August 2013, 16:19

Thought I’d update this thread now I’ve proved the things work whilst on our holidays in Devon, and now I’ve taken some pics.

I fabricated brackets that clamp to the trailer and are swept up at 45deg so they don’t stick out too far when the posts are not in them.

The round tube posts are bent at 45deg and have a section of square tube welded on their ends so they sit in the brackets.
Poly tube is slipped over the posts for the boat to slide against.
I decided to clamp it in position rather than let it spin so it doesn’t come off.

Most of the time the posts are stowed along the trailer with their top in a large eye I made bolted to the trailer and the other end slipped over a pin welded to the bracket with an ‘R’ clip to hold them on.
This way the trailer isn’t any wider in normal use.
It’s a 5 second job to pull the pin and slot the posts into the brackets.
When in use the 45 deg angle means the posts stay in position on their own.
It’s another 5 sec job to lift each one out of it’s bracket and stow it back along the trailer.

I didn’t get any images of them in use but you can get the drift from the images.

They made a real difference when recovering the boat, just drive it on between the posts and the rear end sorted itself out.

I’m really pleased with the way they’ve turned out, so will get them properly galvanised this winter.

Nasher.