How do you identify bearing size? - Page 2

matt h · 17 October 2011, 16:31

I go to antifriction components for any bearings or belts etc. Prices are superb as a trade place without you requiring trade membership. Your bearings will probally have a number like 4203 or something like that. Give antifriction a call with the correct number which wpuld be stamped on the side of the inner race.

Erin · 18 October 2011, 22:17

Good service from Taunton Trailers. I ordered from them yesterday and the new bearings were on my doorstep today. Now all I've got to do is work out how to get the last bearing shell out. Managed to knock three out by belting them hard when they weren't looking, but the last one's proving to be a bu@@er

Downhilldai · 18 October 2011, 23:09

Bigger hammer?

SPR · 18 October 2011, 23:23

you will learn...

the first rule of engineering is to do the last piece first ...because you always mess up the last piece...

if mind right they should be a few groves to allow you to use a pin punch or small chisel on the hubs - tap these around and should go...or sneak up it tomorrow now it thinks it's survived!

regards

S.

martini · 19 October 2011, 09:11

Keith, I'll come round with some proper tools if you don't have any success

Just for reference now since you've got your new ones, Raffrays can supply good quality bearings and they have reference books for matching up part numbers etc. They supply SKF bearings which are pretty good but they will clobber you with the bill!

Far better to go to Ace Engineering, Roger has all the same wholesale suppliers and just sticks 10% on top.

Erin · 19 October 2011, 09:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPR

you will learn...

the first rule of engineering is to do the last piece first ...because you always mess up the last piece...

I did, I did, but I was double bluffed by them

Quote:

Originally Posted by martini

Keith, I'll come round with some proper tools if you don't have any success

You're more than welcome to come and break a few snap-ons on it. I'll give you a shout later. The problem is that there is no lip upon which to get a purchase. I may need to have a small dollop of weld put on it to give something to wedge the punch against.

Quote:

Originally Posted by martini

Just for reference now since you've got your new ones, Raffrays can supply good quality bearings and they have reference books for matching up part numbers etc. I also don't think they were greased quite as well as they could have been from the outset.

I doubt the 'quality' of the bearings is the problem. I think the main issue is the oil seal not keeping the water out because the axle is now rusty and uneven where the seal sits.

Trailer Guy · 19 October 2011, 10:13

Take the rough edges / rust off with a bit of emery paper about 10" long. You can get it on rolls, about 1" wide - perfect for stub axles etc.

The lip might not be easily discernible, but it should be there. It some times helps to re-fit the drum to the wheel when it's off. It helps to keep the drum stable when you're giving it a whack. I usually rest the drift against the opposite rim of the drum, slide it down the internal face until it just catches on the edge of the race, brace it against that opposite rim and then give it a bloody good thump.

Put a set of gloves on though - I nearly lost the top of my left thumb, from the top knuckle joint, many years ago, changing a set of bearings on a drive in Winchester. No gloves - thumb smashed in to boss of drum- no top of thumb. They manged to stitch it back on, but the nerves are a bit knackered.... you've been warned! lol

Erin · 20 October 2011, 12:41

Ok, so the final shell is now out

. Before I bang the new ones in, do I use a bit of grease or put them in dry?

Downhilldai · 20 October 2011, 13:19

Dry - they go in easier than they come out.

Tino · 20 October 2011, 13:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

Good service from Taunton Trailers. I ordered from them yesterday and the new bearings were on my doorstep today. Now all I've got to do is work out how to get the last bearing shell out. Managed to knock three out by belting them hard when they weren't looking, but the last one's proving to be a bu@@er

I know its too late now but when knocking out bearing shells in the past I have used a dremel with a cutting disc attachment to cut back the hub a tiny bit in order to get a punch in.

Erin · 20 October 2011, 14:46

Good idea, thanks.

Trailer Guy · 20 October 2011, 14:59

don't forget you can use the old race to start off the new one (invert it so the thin edges match up) it'll make it easier to drift the new one in straight. If you knock it in too far and it follows the old one in then just knock the inside face, sharply and to the 'side' and it'll pop out.