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13 July 2016, 13:59
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
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Light board - 6ft, 13 PIN, Reverse Light, LED
Has anyone seen a 6 foot, 13 pin, with reverse light all LED light board?
I am struggling to find this set of options, I can find it in 5ft or without LED's or a 7 PIN verstion
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13 July 2016, 14:36
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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I can see reasoning behind 6 foot board, what's your reasoning re the 7 and 13 pin.
You can get a converter as I have with my Audi, 13 Pin on Car, 7 Pin on Trailer.
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13 July 2016, 14:42
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
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Just because I keep losing the 7pin to 13pin adaptors, and its possibly another point of failure.
Just seems that if my current light board is knackered and I need to replace and I have a 13 pin car I may as well get a 13 pin board.
Lets me add a reversing light as well - that will come in handy the few times people are stopped behind me and I need to reverse - saves damaging the prop on the car bonnet!
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13 July 2016, 14:43
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,528
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look on the maypole site seen 4 foot they supply most people as said 7 to 13 pin connectors
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13 July 2016, 15:20
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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Have to say Steve, mine is starting to fall apart, the plastic of the trailer board is getting brittle, so I am going to get a 6foot length of wood/ply, and re-attach lights and cables.
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13 July 2016, 15:30
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
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I did that in the past, but it was more hassle than it was worth in the end.
I want to upgrade to LED as well and it seems cheaper to buy a full new board than all the bits.
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13 July 2016, 16:05
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
Make: Air-Craft 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki df70a
MMSI: 235087492
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 7,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steco1958
Have to say Steve, mine is starting to fall apart, the plastic of the trailer board is getting brittle, so I am going to get a 6foot length of wood/ply, and re-attach lights and cables.
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It amazes me how sh*te these trailer boards are also they would be much better if they used screw fit bulbs instead of bayonet fitting which would cope much better with all the bouncing about a trailer does.
__________________
Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
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13 July 2016, 16:08
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerny
It amazes me how sh*te these trailer boards are also they would be much better if they used screw fit bulbs instead of bayonet fitting which would cope much better with all the bouncing about a trailer does.
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Cant disagree, however I have lessened the failure of the bulbs by rubbing them down with emery cloth at beginning of the season.
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13 July 2016, 19:57
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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I suspect you'd be better creating your own or going for permanent attachment. You can have whatever you want light wise, size it to fit perfectly and cable it to the correct length with the socket you want.
You shouldn't loose the convertor socket -- leave it on the trailer board!
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13 July 2016, 20:39
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveHall
I did that in the past, but it was more hassle than it was worth in the end.
I want to upgrade to LED as well and it seems cheaper to buy a full new board than all the bits.
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Just changed my car so moved from 7 pin to euro 13 pin nonsense. Read on a few forums that CAN-bus LED lights may cause issues with car's onboard computer in as much as it doesn't recognise it. Not sure of the validity, but have stayed with old technology filament and used converter for light board connection.
__________________
Is that with or without VAT?
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13 July 2016, 20:43
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steco1958
Cant disagree, however I have lessened the failure of the bulbs by rubbing them down with emery cloth at beginning of the season.
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Getting a light board to illuminate at the start of the season is on a par with cracking the Enigma code.
__________________
Is that with or without VAT?
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13 July 2016, 21:04
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: West Bromwich
Boat name: Ellie V
Make: Excel Voyager 520
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude 75 HP
MMSI: 235 908 287
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Getting a light board to illuminate at the start of the season is on a par with cracking the Enigma code.
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Enigma code was easy to crack, ask the Americans
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13 July 2016, 22:01
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveHall
Has anyone seen a 6 foot, 13 pin, with reverse light all LED light board?
I am struggling to find this set of options, I can find it in 5ft or without LED's or a 7 PIN verstion
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Make your own
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13 July 2016, 22:02
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Read on a few forums that CAN-bus LED lights may cause issues with car's onboard computer in as much as it doesn't recognise it. Not sure of the validity, but have stayed with old technology filament and used converter for light board connection.
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If your car uses Can-bus (i.e. can detect a blown bulb on the dashboard) then the LEDs need a resistor to allow the circuit to detect it.
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13 July 2016, 22:06
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Just changed my car so moved from 7 pin to euro 13 pin nonsense. Read on a few forums that CAN-bus LED lights may cause issues with car's onboard computer in as much as it doesn't recognise it. Not sure of the validity, but have stayed with old technology filament and used converter for light board connection.
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Just stick a resistor across the indicator wires simple
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14 July 2016, 07:52
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Getting a light board to illuminate at the start of the season is on a par with cracking the Enigma code.
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Your right there worst case of electrolysis you'll find
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16 July 2016, 08:58
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
Your right there worst case of electrolysis you'll find
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Actually .. I think traditional Christmas lights might be in the running for reliability!!
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16 July 2016, 11:31
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Just changed my car so moved from 7 pin to euro 13 pin nonsense. Read on a few forums that CAN-bus LED lights may cause issues with car's onboard computer in as much as it doesn't recognise it. Not sure of the validity, but have stayed with old technology filament and used converter for light board connection.
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Some vehicles will work, some won't. It depends on the vehicle, generally the higher end the vehicle ( I.e. Complexity of electrickery) the more the likelihood that it won't work. Disco, Range Rover, BMW need resistors. Some Volvos do, some don't. It's pot luck. You can buy a plug in box that goes between car & trailer to supposedly get around the issue, here again, they work on some cars & not on others. My all singing new trailer came with an interface box for the built in LEDs, it didn't work with the Disco4, I had to solder some £2 quid RS resistors into the indicator circuits. The actual trailer lights will still work without them, but you get a strobing flash on the trailer indicators about twice per second, also the vehicle doesn't "see" the trailer, so things like reversing sensors, stability programs, rear fog lights etc. dont get enabled/ disabled.
I actually prefer the 13pin euro plugs, they are better sealed & offer a more positive locking action compared to the old 7 pin type. I don't like adapters though, more joints & connections to go wrong.
Don't panic! don't panic!
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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16 July 2016, 19:52
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,528
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I tried last year to fit LEDS following dave's advice on my shogan the electricery of the vehicle wouldn't play rang up the towbar fitters the box of tricks I wanted £180 so decided to buy a new board every year or replace the light clusters.
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