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Old 03 May 2020, 09:28   #21
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If there is no offset in the axle then the boat will sit higher on the trailer, and may need deeper water, or a steeper slip, to launch and recover.
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Old 03 May 2020, 09:30   #22
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If there is no offset in the axle, then the boat may sit higher on the trailer, requiring a steeper slip, to launch and recover
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Old 03 May 2020, 17:47   #23
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Good point, just been and measured the distances new to old and it looks Like the new one is 20/30 mm higher than the old, but this is without any weight on, if it is higher then it’s not going to be much when it’s on and weight bearing.
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Old 03 May 2020, 20:44   #24
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If there is no offset in the axle, then the boat may sit higher on the trailer, requiring a steeper slip, to launch and recover
Ha Ha if you need a steeper slip i know where there is one !
in reality though you may have other options on swing brackets or maybe move rollers lower to lift the hull ,i think those cranked snipe axles are ancient history now .
Like you i bought online a couple of mudguards the other day and they arrived APC the next day ,i was well pleased and impressed
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Old 06 May 2020, 07:18   #25
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Got my axle fitted yesterday, after a good bit of faffing about. Only one issue left, inspecting the ‘ Knott water proof ‘ bearings to see if my old system of taper rollers can be used as spares.
Anybody know if you just pry out the pressed in centre cap to hopefully get access?

It also seems to sit ok so I am not planning to alter the rollers.

Thanks Dave
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Old 06 May 2020, 11:34   #26
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Got my axle fitted yesterday, after a good bit of faffing about. Only one issue left, inspecting the ‘ Knott water proof ‘ bearings to see if my old system of taper rollers can be used as spares.
Anybody know if you just pry out the pressed in centre cap to hopefully get access?

It also seems to sit ok so I am not planning to alter the rollers.

Thanks Dave
Yes the centre cap will pry out. If I'm honest, I wouldn't bother reusing anything off the old axle, for the price of a new set of bearings its just not worth using a "used" set.
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Old 06 May 2020, 12:07   #27
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The hub internals are very different & the bearing types aren't interchangeable.
Taper roller outer races are driven into the hub, one from each end until seated against machined shoulders.
The sealed ones are a complete assembly, pressed in from one end until one end of the assembly is seated against a shoulder & a circlip is used at the other end to ensure it can't come out - unlikely as they usually require a press to fit.
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Old 06 May 2020, 18:55   #28
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A1an and paintman, thank you for the info regarding the hubs and bearings, what’s the best way to ensure you can do a roadside repair/replacement. Do I need a new hub and what tools should I carry, is it possible to do a get you home replacement on the roadside?

Thanks dave
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Old 06 May 2020, 19:32   #29
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A1an and paintman, thank you for the info regarding the hubs and bearings, what’s the best way to ensure you can do a roadside repair/replacement. Do I need a new hub and what tools should I carry, is it possible to do a get you home replacement on the roadside?

Thanks dave
I keep all necessary bearings/washers/split pins/sachet of grease in a small Tupperware tub in spare wheel well of car. Alongside that is a tool roll with the tools required to do a roadside repair. iirc its a scissor jack I have in there too, they're not ideal but they work. The best way to know what tools to carry is to go and do the job, best way to learn, that way you are up to speed when you're pulled over at services trying to swap bearings.

Some people need to keep a complete hub for a quick swap.
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Old 06 May 2020, 19:33   #30
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A1an and paintman, thank you for the info regarding the hubs and bearings, what’s the best way to ensure you can do a roadside repair/replacement. Do I need a new hub and what tools should I carry, is it possible to do a get you home replacement on the roadside?

Thanks dave
If your old shaft is the same diameter and length from shoulder to threads then no reason why you couldnt use your old hubs as get you home spares which would save you buying a spare hub. The only practical way to repair sealed bearings at the roadside is to carry a complete hub
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Old 06 May 2020, 22:12   #31
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Worth a trial fit.
Is there a hole in the end of the stub axle to take the split pin to lock the castellated nut?
The sealed bearings normally have a single use locknut with no split pin. Would that work with the taper rollers?
(Single use nut worth bearing in mind if you decide to take your new one off to have a look as you're supposed to fit new ones every time)
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Old 07 May 2020, 01:38   #32
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Worth a trial fit.
Is there a hole in the end of the stub axle to take the split pin to lock the castellated nut?
The sealed bearings normally have a single use locknut with no split pin. Would that work with the taper rollers?
(Single use nut worth bearing in mind if you decide to take your new one off to have a look as you're supposed to fit new ones every time)
Single use nut will be fine reused with a little loctite & if you have to fit taper bearings as a get you home you can use a nyloc or similar lock nut in place of a castelated nut if your stuck. Alternatively you could carry a castelated nut & pre drill the end of the stub ready to accept a split pin. It maybe if the stub axles are the same that you replace the hubs with taper bearing hubs permanently once the sealed bearings are done.
I personally prefer taper bearings over sealed types
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Old 07 May 2020, 18:21   #33
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So do I. Sight easier to strip, check, clean & replace with basic tools.
With the sealed ones you're never quite sure what's going on inside.
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Old 07 May 2020, 20:01   #34
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So do I. Sight easier to strip, check, clean & replace with basic tools.
With the sealed ones you're never quite sure what's going on inside.
Yep I've only ever lost a wheel once and it was off a 9 month old trailer that had only been dunked a handfull of times which was fitted with sealed bearings.
Sold & delivered the boat to a guy in Southampton who didnt want the trailer and on my return journey to Durham I lost the entire wheel and hub off the nearside rear axle. Didn't realise till I backed onto the drive at 3.00AM
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