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Old 15 April 2018, 07:28   #1
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Rib moved forward on my trailer

Hi

Just some advice please.

On arriving at the boat yard I noticed that my rear ratchet strap was loose. On investigation, I noticed the rib had moved forward and had dropped down in front on the first roller.

This meant I had to trailer the boat further into the water to float it above the roller so she could be pushed of the trailer.

Firstly is this common ? I can only think I winched her too far forward in the first place so she was barely sitting on the last roller.

Also I am wondering on the way i secured the boat on the trailer was inadequate. I use a ratchet strap on the rear of the boat going through the d rings and and against the engine to stop it moving back. The winch secured on the front and a smaller ratchet strap at the front, initially to also stop her moving back, but on the return journey I attached it so she couldn't move forward.

Any advice please, and If anyone has a decent photo or two of your rib secured to the trailer these would be a great help.

Also I learnt one lesson from today. Never let go of the ratchet handle without it in the locked position. I now have a black eye and bruised face after it span and smacked me in the face.

Thanks
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Old 15 April 2018, 08:27   #2
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Rib moved forward on my trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakeys7 View Post
Hi



Just some advice please.



Any advice please, and If anyone has a decent photo or two of your rib secured to the trailer these would be a great help.



Also I learnt one lesson from today. Never let go of the ratchet handle without it in the locked position. I now have a black eye and bruised face after it span and smacked me in the face. [emoji20]



Thanks


Ouch! Sounds nasty.

We use a ratchet strap through the bow ring to pull down the bow to stop it bouncing while towing and riding up the snubber. Braking and tension in the transom straps will try to move boat forward if the bow is not strapped down.

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Old 15 April 2018, 08:37   #3
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Ouch, sounds sore. I always remind everyone to stand clear of the winch handle, but know these situations happen quickly. Hope it's not too serious.

With the rib on the trailer, it should go as far forward as the winch post. There's normally a rubber seat that the bow nudges into. Ratchet straps weaken over use, especially with constant tension, strap being wet with salt water, etc. Use a length of rope through the bow eye on the boat to the winch post as a back-up. Ratchet straps break which is part of the reason to never never reverse down a slip with that being the only thing securing the boat to the trailer.

At the back, ratchet strap through the transom U bolts is perfect. I double the ratchet strap here and tension.

I'd replace ratchet straps every couple of seasons if you want belt and braces approach.
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Old 15 April 2018, 11:40   #4
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I have attached a couple of pics to also highlight the other issue which is that the bow ring got in the way of the rubber bar when trying to launch. I had to lift it over ?

The rubber bar needs replacing as it has ripped off.

I didn't have any issues first time around when the boat was sitting correctly on all rollers.

The pivot on my rollers is also very stiff. The weight of the boat adjusts them but to move by hand is a struggle. Should these move quite freely ?

The bolts look quite rusted and probably need replacing and the pivots greasing.

Thanks again and Chipko that has to be the shiniest trailer in the world
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Old 15 April 2018, 12:40   #5
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If you look on the trailer, the keel roller nearest the winch post can normally adjust up and down. Lift it slightly and the boat bow eye won't catch during launch or retrieve. I'd renew the rubber bump stop on the trailer with new galvanised bolts. Use a little grease when fitting. The rubber cover on the bow eye is shot too. You should be able access bolts from anchor locker.
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Old 15 April 2018, 12:51   #6
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My keel roller is...umm no where near the boat. It would seem trailer needs some modification for the rib ?
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Old 15 April 2018, 13:16   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakeys7 View Post
My keel roller is...umm no where near the boat. It would seem trailer needs some modification for the rib ?
Isnt that one just to support the keel as you winch on if your winching off the ground with the trailer unhitched from the car
The front of the trailer will lift high and that roller will come into play untill the hull flattens out and the outer rollers lift the boat clear
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Old 15 April 2018, 13:19   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken View Post
Isnt that one just to support the keel as you winch on if your winching off the ground with the trailer unhitched from the car
The front of the trailer will lift high and that roller will come into play untill the hull flattens out and the outer rollers lift the boat clear
Just looking at it that would make sense. It does look like it would make contact once the boat was winched off/on the trailer
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Old 15 April 2018, 17:49   #9
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Your trailer looks very similar to mine (indespension) but not particularly well set for your boat. The bow eye would normally be much higher what setting are the rollers at the bow end of the trailer set to vs the stern end ?

New snubber block needed I have a strap from bow eye down vertical and the eye sits avove the vertical upright of winch post. There is also a secondary fitting for launching and retrieving in case the winch breaks loose.
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Old 15 April 2018, 19:45   #10
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None of my boating in the UK was trailer boating so I don't know if this is usual there or not....but here it is usual practice to have a safety chain from the winch post to the D-ring which is secured to the D-ring by a shackle. Before using the boat I spliced a painter to the D-ring and use this to tie the boat to the trailer with the chain as the back up.
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Old 15 April 2018, 20:10   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardinNZ View Post
None of my boating in the UK was trailer boating so I don't know if this is usual there or not....but here it is usual practice to have a safety chain from the winch post to the D-ring which is secured to the D-ring by a shackle. Before using the boat I spliced a painter to the D-ring and use this to tie the boat to the trailer with the chain as the back up.
yes ,new zealand or especially Levington suffolk ,that link chain is a definite must ,otherwise a black eye might be the least of your worries ,
that current set up looks very poor ,i can help you get it right but trailer bits and pieces are not cheap so you need to be prepared for a few quid for bits , a silk purse from a sows ear is a statement that may be applicable ,mind you help and advice is free
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Old 15 April 2018, 23:35   #12
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£45 doesn’t seem to bad consider the rubber is £7

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F152953988023

Custom made options too I think you may be able to adjust current post but a slightly lower post might work better.
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Old 21 April 2018, 19:37   #13
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Thanks all for your advice. I have replaced the front rubber block and practice strapping her down.

One question I still had. How free should the movement be on the rollers ?

Not the actual rollers but the pivots. I can adjust/move them by hand but they are very stiff. Obviously the weight of the boat puts them in the position they need to be but the bolts do look very corroded and I think they need replacing and the whole mechanism greasing up
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Old 21 April 2018, 19:55   #14
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If the rollers are floppy they tend to invert at inopportune moments due to wave action its better if they are a little stiff and stay where they are put
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Old 21 April 2018, 21:13   #15
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I always run a strap from one side of the trailer chassis about 1m behind the D ring through the D ring and back to the trailer chassis on the other side about 1m back. This prevents any forward movement during braking.
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Old 21 April 2018, 21:15   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SW Boat Transport View Post
I always run a strap from one side of the trailer chassis about 1m behind the D ring through the D ring and back to the trailer chassis on the other side about 1m back. This prevents any forward movement during braking.
I like that idea.....thankyou
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Old 22 April 2018, 05:41   #17
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I use a galvanized chain with adjustable hooks like on pic both front and rear.
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Old 22 April 2018, 07:57   #18
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On my hire boats I have a chain with a senhouse slip hook going back the way. Winch the boat on until a few inches short of the snubber post and connect the chain. It stops the boat moving forward on the road but I put it on to stop somebody winching the boat on to far and coming over the rollers at transom and breaking the transducer. The boat is on trailer at exact same place every time.
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