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12 May 2017, 12:03
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#1
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Donegal Bay
Make: ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: outboard 200hp
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 56
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Roller bracket bolts
I have an indespension trailer and I am replacing some of the rollers. I have noticed that some of the roller arms have seized up and are not moving freely. I want to do a job on them and replace the existing rusted bolts. My question is do I replace them with standard bolts as before, do I find stainless steel bolts or is there such an item as small galvanised bolts? Will there be a reaction with the stainless and galv. I could just use standard bolts as is on the trailer seeing as they have been there for nearly 20 years.
What is the concensus?
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12 May 2017, 12:19
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,185
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Buy hot dipped galv bolts from any fixings supplier.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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15 May 2017, 08:26
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Avon
Length: 8m +
Engine: Outboard & Inboard
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 30
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Screwfix
Is a convenient place to get your galvanised bolts and nylocs. Your original bolts started off as galvanised, I should hope so anyway!
A problem with the Indispension roller system is that the roller axle stem is formed from an oval Ali extrusion and the roller has a round hole in the retaining washer resulting in a larger gap between axle sides and washer. Over time the washer forces itself over the split pin and the roller falls off gouging your pride and joy, this usually happens in the water during recovery
Whilst your at it why don't you consider replacing your split pins (that keep the roller washers on the stem) with longer ones and make them cover more of the gap area
Older trailers used a Starlock washer system , if your has this then they could probably to with replacing after all those years
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15 May 2017, 22:31
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: suffolk
Boat name: not yet
Make: Gemini + XS
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 140/merc 60
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,302
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Not 100% on this ,but I think the only Galvanised Bolt your gon to get from screwfix is a bolt for the door !
Maybe not everybody is aware there is a big difference between cadmium or zinc plated , and Galvanised ,doubt nylocs can be bought galvanised ,you need to use shakeproof washers
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15 May 2017, 22:38
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orwell boy
Not 100% on this ,but I think the only Galvanised Bolt your gon to get from screwfix is a bolt for the door !
Maybe not everybody is aware there is a big difference between cadmium or zinc plated , and Galvanised ,doubt nylocs can be bought galvanised ,you need to use shakeproof washers
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Hot dipped Galv Nylocs are available.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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18 May 2017, 11:03
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#6
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Donegal Bay
Make: ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: outboard 200hp
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
Buy hot dipped galv bolts from any fixings supplier.
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Thanks for that , I have sourced some from a local supplier
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18 May 2017, 11:16
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#7
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Donegal Bay
Make: ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: outboard 200hp
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 56
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[QUOTE=Crosshouse RIBS;747248]Is a convenient place to get your galvanised bolts and nylocs. Your original bolts started off as galvanised, I should hope so anyway!
A problem with the Indispension roller system is that the roller axle stem is formed from an oval Ali extrusion and the roller has a round hole in the retaining washer resulting in a larger gap between axle sides and washer. Over time the washer forces itself over the split pin and the roller falls off gouging your pride and joy, this usually happens in the water during recovery
Whilst your at it why don't you consider replacing your split pins (that keep the roller washers on the stem) with longer ones and make them cover more of the gap area
You are correct! I have started on removing the old rollers and everything is seized up. The bolts holding the roller arms are completely locked up so I had to cut them off. In fact some of the bolt heads had rotted off and only the bolt stub has holding the arm in place. nearly all of the split pins were seized as well so they had to be broken away. I had to use a pillar drill to clean out the holes. I understand what you are saying about longer split pins but in taking 1 loose split pin out I had to bend it to get it out of the wheel- surely in putting a new 1 in it will have to be bent to get it into place.
When I ordered the spare rollers they sent me a couple of galv starlock washers and They look to be a good idea. What is your opinion of them?
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18 May 2017, 13:04
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,185
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[QUOTE=Ribtec1;747612]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosshouse RIBS
........ galv starlock washers and They look to be a good idea. What is your opinion of them?
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They don't last 2 minutes, fail without warning & the roller drops off, usually whilst you are recovering & gouges your gel coat, apart from that they're great[emoji848]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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18 May 2017, 15:51
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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On both of my rollercoaster trailers I removed all of the rollers, drilled out the holes to 4.2mm and fitted 4.0mm x 40mm 316 stainless split pins, large heavy duty 316 stainless penny washers with an I.D. that only just fits over the arm, then the roller then the same assembly again on the outside of the roller.
I greased well with a waterproof grease and now periodically squirt a small amount of outboard gearbox oil onto each of the roller arms to keep them free.
On my old roller trailer that had the star grip washers instead of split pins I did the same, removed all the washers and replaced with meaty 316 stainless split pins.
Its cost me around £30 per trailer to do but saves so much hassle!
I get all my bits from Allfix normally
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18 May 2017, 16:56
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Stainless washers and pins...First Job on any new Trailer
Unless you want to go the Pikey and Mick route and buy a completely Stainless Trailer!
__________________
A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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18 May 2017, 17:42
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
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Unless you want to go the Pikey and Mick route and buy a completely Stainless Trailer!
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It's the future [emoji6]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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18 May 2017, 17:58
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
It's the future [emoji6]
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At the price it would need to be! I thought you were from Yorkshire?
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18 May 2017, 18:13
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
At the price it would need to be! I thought you were from Yorkshire?
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It's an investment, when times get hard I can always weigh it in[emoji1]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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18 May 2017, 18:19
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
It's the future [emoji6]
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..Gotcha!..That explains it!
...it's a Time machine too!
__________________
A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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18 May 2017, 18:27
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
..Gotcha!..That explains it!
...it's a Time machine too!
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Aye I've just upgraded the flux capacitor too[emoji6]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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18 May 2017, 21:04
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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Drill, pin & washers for me too.
Just had to sort out the driver's door handle on my RRC. Starlock washer on a pin & when the starlock fails the pin falls out as the starlock is on the top of the pin - whoever thought that was a good idea - and the outer handle is effectively disconnected. Drill, pin & washer problem solved
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