Salt Waterproofing Brakes/Axles

[alexm]

First post on here for a while

Our boat has normally been trailered down to Cornwall for the season by now but not this year... it's still sitting on my driveway because things had degenerated further than I thought and the broken brake cable I was expecting to fix has turned into needing a whole new axle!

The trailer has an Al-ko axle and is about 8 years old. It's only done about 4,000 miles and gets dipped in salt water 4 or so times per year and gets fully flushed with fresh water every time (it's fitted with a flushing system)

The dreaded sealed bearings have never caused us any grief and in fact they still seem ok even now... it's just that everything else has crumbled!

I'm about to order a replacement axle (identical to the original so easy to fit) but I have discovered that, like the original, the suspension and brake parts are not galvanised. I am now looking at what options I have to try to make these parts last as long as possible. Obviously as the axle is permanently assembled with rubber suspension internals hot dipping is out of the question. I was thinking maybe strip the paint off the swing arms, brake backing plates and drums and painting with galvafroid or similar?

Anyone have any suggestions?

Here's what the old axle looks like... the galvanised bits are like new and the non-galvanised bits look like they are made of Cadbury's flake!

[Razorbill RIBs]

The only really workable solution we've found is to cover everything (not brakes obv) liberally (and fairly regularly tbh) with corrosion block....can be sprayed and brushed.... Not aesthetically pleasing, but works.......

Corrosion Block - marine anti-corrosion compound for your boat

[Pikey Dave]

I've always Waxoyled my trailers from new. Not pretty but works, current trailer ( with AlKo axles) still solid.


.....sh1t happens.......

[Bern Hanreck]

I was advised to use stainless cables on re-assembly and I think that was a damn good suggestion in hindsight.

[Johnscubanut]

I guess I'm living on borrowed time with ours? For now though, fresh water & more fresh water after immersion!!!

[paintman]

Galvafroid works, just be sure to thoroughly degrease before applying.
Waxoil works too. The clear variety might look a bit better than the black stuff.
Never tried either inside the brakes, I usually fresh water flush then take the drums off & spray down with wd40 to de-water followed by a wipe with kitchen roll. Well practiced & I can do all 4 easily in around 1/2 an hour.

[kerlstone]

I feel your pain, iv'e just this very afternoon finished rebuilding my trailer, new suspension units, brakes, all new u bolts, roller bushes etc, and all stripped and painted, my brakes were just like yours, gubbed,
i think boat trailers are a monumental pain in the arse, i suppose though we cant expect anything else since we dunk them constantly in the sea then drive all over the country with them.
I just wonder how long these brakes will keep working as good as they were today.

Rant over,

Gerry.

[Nasher]

Originally Posted by Bern Hanreck

I was advised to use stainless cables on re-assembly and I think that was a damn good suggestion in hindsight.

Stainless cables survive very well, not had to replace one since swapping over to them years ago.
However I do also ensure that the middles are supported higher than the ends so any water that gets in naturally runs out again rather than pools inside.
I do this with simple lengths of cord tied across the trailer.

Nasher.

[alexm]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. We'd like to be able to regularly get inside the drums to wash everything out properly but the trouble with Alko hubs is that you are meant to replace the nut every time you remove it.

That and the fact that they have to be torqued to 200 ftlbs makes it a bit inconvenient to do after every launch!

Good point on the stainless cables. The cables which come from each drum lead to a bracket and T-bar on the axle. These brake cables come with the axle... I'm not sure if they are stainless but ours seem to have weathered ok. There is then a single galvanised wire rope leading from the T-bar to the hitch/handbrake. This wire rope would be a good candidate for replacement with stainless as it's very rusty too.

I also want to replace all the cotter pins which hold on the rollers with stainless pins. I replaced every single one two years ago and they are already fairly rusty!

[9D280]

Originally Posted by Nasher

However I do also ensure that the middles are supported higher than the ends so any water that gets in naturally runs out again rather than pools inside.
I do this with simple lengths of cord tied across the trailer.

Nasher.

+1. (I used 10mm shock cord to allow them to move a bit.)


I also have an Al-Ko axle - mine is 6YO, & goes swimming every time I go out. All I've had to replace so far is the brake springs - they worked (and a subseuent Pull test in my vice o nthe workbench showed they were fine, with a bit of surface rust) but I chenged them as a precaution.......

If I can't hose down at the slip (and it's not p-ing down with rain as is frequently the way in this corner of the world!) I will give the axle etc a good wash when I get home.


Do you flush then drive? - then the heat of the brakes whe nyou stop will dry the inside of the drums etc out. Flushing & parking means you still have a lot of dampness in there......

[macattack101]

100% agree with you on the drying out. I always flush the hubs with the flusher fitted then take the empty trailer for even a 5 min run with lots of braking.. Did the pre season checks last week and brakes still look good. Quick re grease and spray on under seal to the axle legs.