SBS trailer Al-Ko Flange Nuts

[Pikey Dave]

I had my SBS twin axle for 8 years. I changed the bearings each year for the first couple of years & realised I was binning perfectly good bearings. I ran the last set for 5 years until I sold the boat, they were still going strong. My trailer used to do minimum 10k miles/year, all over the UK & Europe. I never had a failure or even a warm hub. I preferred them over the traditional taper roller bearings. I’d certainly have them again.

[Sargan]

That sounds better ... lasting only 18 months was worrying.
Any particular mainatenance on the hubs ? I know they are 'sealed for life' did you lubricate at all?

[nocando]

Just for clarity, the SBS 2600kg under his ribcraft 6.8 is flushed after every dunk and never dipped warm, he looks after his stuff. The bearings are sealed so in theory nothing can get into them (grease won't) but they definitely rumble but it is different to taper rollers noise (I've not heard it on road personally). It's more like a liner is stuck I believe. We have checked brake bind, axles are square, damper works, tyre wear is non existent, no heat after journey, no brake rubbing or handbrake issues, genuine bearings, cheap bearings, always replace caps, correct torque settings and it makes bugger all difference, 18 months ish and they are knackered.

I belive you can press the bearings 7x then it is new hub time officially.

He has said many times he would have taper rollers back in heart beat but its not an option so just need to get on with it.

[Sargan]

Please don't think I'm arguing with anybody
I have had taper rollers bearings in boat trailers for nearly 40 years .... for first first time now have these sealed double roller bearings.
Just trying to find best way to look after them.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

Please don't think I'm arguing with anybody
I have had taper rollers bearings in boat trailers for nearly 40 years .... for first first time now have these sealed double roller bearings.

I used to remove the hubs each year for brake maintenance. I checked the bearings & put a smear of copperslip on the bearing seals, front & back.

[Sargan]

does copperslip help on neoprene seals ?

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Sargan

does copperslip help on neoprene seals ?

Didn’t seem to do any harm. Neoprene is pretty bomb proof and I believe, (willing to be corrected) that it’s closely related to our beloved Hypalon.

[Chris Caton]

blew the cobwebs off the lathe this afternoon, hopefully this should do the job for the occasional use i’ll need it for🤞

[Pikey Dave]

Nice work Chris. I’ve had a “lathe day” today [emoji106]

[Chris Caton]

it was a good day to be working on the lathe Dave, tad damp this afternoon!!

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Chris Caton

it was a good day to be working on the lathe Dave, tad damp this afternoon!!

Nice here, didn’t even need the heating on in The Shed. I almost felt guilty being indoors.

[Chris Caton]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Nice here, didn’t even need the heating on in The Shed. I almost felt guilty being indoors.

i've saved a few jobs up for damp days, think the numbers are getting smaller on the vernier though!

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by Chris Caton

it was a good day to be working on the lathe Dave, tad damp this afternoon!!

Nice job Chris ,,,,, I assume you know its used for replacing the caps too. ,,, with the proverbial tapping stick. Saves destroying them both ways lol

[Dry_Doc]

The watertight integrity of the hubs depends on the fit of the covers. I usually reuse them once but never more than this.
I use a wooden drift at a 'negative' angle (i.e. driven slightly from behind) to get them off. If you use a chisel or screwdriver you'll more than likely deform the lip and end up with water getting in.
Rubber mallet or hammer and block of softwood to re-fit them.

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by Dry_Doc

The watertight integrity of the hubs depends on the fit of the covers. I usually reuse them once but never more than this.
I use a wooden drift at a 'negative' angle (i.e. driven slightly from behind) to get them off. If you use a chisel or screwdriver you'll more than likely deform the lip and end up with water getting in.
Rubber mallet or hammer and block of softwood to re-fit them.

That is why use of the correct tool is invaluable - no damage and using it to reseat the cap afterwards ensures the mating face is flat and tightly installed ;-)

[Chris Caton]

Originally Posted by Jeff

Nice job Chris ,,,,, I assume you know its used for replacing the caps too. ,,, with the proverbial tapping stick. Saves destroying them both ways lol

thanks Jeff yeah, should make refitting a doddle, they can be pesky to get back in

[Sargan]

I also had a tool made up .....

[Sargan]

I did finally get the job done .... https://www.rib.net/forum/f49/sbs-tr...tml#post830143