Setting up trailer for Sib

[Old seahorse]

I’m about to take delivery of an Extreme 300 inflatable boat trailer, to reduce workload caused by inflating, deflating, and repacking each trip.
My previous hard hulled boat sat on rollers, but this trailer has a pair of 1.4 metre carpeted bunks, and two keel pads.
The boat is a 3 metre Takacat( similar to Boatworld Cat recently tested by Chipko. )
Not having a tube across the bow, all weight would be borne by the two tubes.
I’ve seen reference to resting the boats on the air floor( against the inside edge of the tubes).
Is this the preferred method?
I’m considering fitting another bunk across the trailer( at right angles to main bunks) towards the bow, but not sure if this is overkill.
Boat weighs 31Kg. The outboard will not be on the transom.
Finally, am I correct in assuming straps to secure the boat should be to the metal eyes on the tubes( not over the top) ?
Any pointers appreciated

[chipko]

There are a few posts on setting up Extreme bunked trailers for an Elling KB350 tunnel hull sib on the other channel.
https://f-ribsandsibs.com/forum/view...hp?f=99&t=5218
Gray and Sibfisher of that parish both keep their boats on road trailers while ours is kept on a bunked launch trolley.

Would definitely recommend bunks horizontal, under floor and positioned tight up to inside of tubes. Ensure bunks project slightly beyond transom for support, especially if you ever decide to tow with engine mounted. You might also need to raise height of bunks so underside of tubes clear mudguards.

Strap transom down to trailer at rear and perhaps strap via the tube mounted towing eyes at the bow. If winch post is height adjustable and has a carpeted snubber this should be aligned with the painter eye under the floor…if Takacats have these.

Good luck with set up.

[Old seahorse]

Thanks Chipko. All those points are very helpful. There are metal towing eyes just stern of the transom, which should be in the right spot for strapping to attachment points at rear of trailer frame.
The trailer does have a keel pad fitted to the winch post ( and one at the stern), and locating it under the painter attachment eyes makes sense. I don’t think winch post is height adjustable though, so may need some tweaking. Obviously, going from a boat on rollers which has some weight to steady it to a light weight inflatable with an urge to take off during transport, is a whole new ballgame.
I will have a look at ‘ The other channel’, to see how others do it.
Many thanks

[Old seahorse]

Having collected the trailer, I adjusted the two bunks to sit tight against the tubes, to bear the weight of the boat. It then
became apparent that on an open bowed cat, ( Takacat, Boatworld , and others)this method causes the air floor to be pushed up, which distorts the boat slightly . It then wouldn’t sit flat. I’m assuming those with an enclosed bow( e.g Elling) have the floor trapped to prevent this.
I then made up two extra bunks which sit on the frames, to support the tubes, and an additional cross bunk to support the front of the tubes.
After a lot of tweaking, the boat now sits well, supported under the air floor, which prevents sideward movement, and under the main tubes. All the bunks are secured to the trailer frame by u bolts, recessed into the wooden bunks before being covered in carpet, to match the original bunks. I’ve yet to tow it with the boat, but hoping I’ve got it right.
I’ve tried to attach photos, but failed !

[chipko]

Good to hear you’ve got it all sorted. Would be interested to see some pics when you can upload them.

Have to admit surprised that the Takacat tubes sagged a little whilst on the two bunks under the floor. What pressures were you running?

As an aside the little Boatworld Kat Sport 330 we recently had on test sat for over two weeks on our launch trolley (bunks at 700mm centres to suit our Elling) and seemed fine, even at 1/2 to 3/4 storage pressure.

[Old seahorse]

Thanks Chipko. I was surprised that the air floor “ popped out at the bow when supported on the two bunks. The floor is 10 p.s.I, and tubes are 3.5/6. It’s possible that I hadn’t tucked the floor edge properly into the crease, and was a one off. Probably over engineered, but didn’t want to risk it on the road.
It really only cost my time to do the additional bunks( if I ignore the cost of the trailer!).
I used some unused fence rails for the bunks, bought some u bolts off a South American website retailer, and some bunk carpet from the trailer manufacturer- so £35 or so in total.
I will try to add photos again. I used the paper clip icon, selected some photos, but couldn’t get beyond that.

[Old seahorse]

[Old seahorse]

Trailer as delivered with two bunks
Home made bunks
Completed!

[Old seahorse]

Boat sitting on adapted trailer

[Steve509926]

Looking good. Great pictures

Can those inner bunks be angle a little so as to support both the deck and the tubes?

[Old seahorse]

Yes Steve, they can, but only had limited angle, and didn’t seem to make much difference. I’m sure I’ve over engineered it, but for little extra cost, and some work, it’s given me peace of mind. Hoping to get out this week if weather settles. It should reduce workload, and encourage me to get on the water a bit more.

[Steve509926]

anything that makes it easier to get on the water is good by me.

[chipko]

Old seahorse, new trailer and your mods looking great….nice work. [emoji106]

Thanks for persevering with upload of pics.

[Old seahorse]

Every day is a school day!

[Old seahorse]

Managed to use the trailer and boat today. Tows well, with no issues, with boat well supported. Drastically reduced prep time at slipway, and returning home. Pushed boat back off trailer, with launch wheels attached . Trying to avoid dunking the whole outfit where possible. Slight adjustment needed to lighting board extension bars required( lowering bracket) to speed up process.
I’m pleased with outcome. Thanks for all inputs.