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Old 26 April 2012, 20:54   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festinghouse View Post
i may be being a rough arse but my understanding is that the rubber and axle are pushed in, try wrapping a ratchet strap around both arms to squeeze them both into the axle itself
I thought it was a one piece going fron one side to the other?
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Old 26 April 2012, 21:00   #22
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lol

Well, my humble opinion was that the axle itself should be ok. The rubbers protruding are a sign of wear and failure, but as a rule it's a very slow process, rather than a sudden failure. The arms will eventually go past horizontal and will go 'up' from the axle cross member, rather than down. As stated above, correctly, the rubbers go a long way in, so an inch or so protruding isn't too big a deal.

If the drop arms are solid (give them a bloody good thump with a hammer to make sure), then break off the flaky rust, 'kur-rust' them, give them a coat of hammerite (other brands are available )and they should be ok for quite a while yet. However, this is the old type of Indespension drop arm - they were two pieces of steel, press formed and then seam welded together. Ergo, they're comparatively thin walled and hollow in the centre and are liable to rusting, twisting and failing. Therefore, you need to be confident they're sound.

I had to replace an axle on a Laser SB3 trailer, for the RAF Sailing Association, recently, for exactly this reason - I'll find some pics for you, so you can see what I mean.

The brakes look to be Knott 203x40 jobbies and as said prior; the studs are press-in (thump with hammer), so quick and easy to renew if required.

All the best.

oh yes - and over £400+vat is waaaay to much to pay for an OE Indespension axle.
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Old 26 April 2012, 21:03   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Hearne View Post
I thought it was a one piece going fron one side to the other?

As F says - drop arms are presses in from either side, but with a ruddy great press. I think once they've squeezed out a tad you'd be very hard pressed (intentional pun ) to push them back in. Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Old 26 April 2012, 22:08   #24
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Split drop arm pics, as promised:

Trailer axle changed in situ, with boat on:




New full beam axle, instead of independent units. This added strength and rigidity to the chassis too. The new axle also has solid, forged drop arms - no rusting through!




And the reason it had to be changed - you can see the big tear through the steel, running down the length of the drop arm.

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Old 27 April 2012, 00:28   #25
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Hi Trailer Guy,
I thought all drop arms where made of solid metal but that one pictured looks hollow, So how much would the new one pictured cost, I'm very interested beause I need to replace complete axle myself, mainly because present trailer is unbraked and I think my rib and engine must be over 750kg I don't know the exact weight. Any advice much appreciated.
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