Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
but I've always concluded it wasn't worth it for the hassle / confidence in it factor.
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Based on some I've seen you could argue the exact opposite!
Quote:
Originally Posted by davej
Another take is buy the bits from towsure, fit the metal work yourself which maybe very simple and then have a local motor factor do the electrics for you. It maybe significantly cheaper but you need to price it up. My neighbour did just this recently and saved a fair bit of cash, he also painted up the metal work and made sure it was well protected against rusting.
Just a thought
Dave j
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I did this to 3 sequential Ford Fiestas back in my Laser sailing days - One bar was fitted to three differnet cars. No CAN nonsense back then, so I went to a scrap yard, bought a pair of rear cluster connectors with about 6" cable out the plug, and soldered them into a "plug & play" T-adaptor with suitable wire for the lamp / buzzer. First car I put up with the buzzer, the other two I managed to get in behind the dash and used a spare lamp holder I found on the cluster. Confused the MoT man when the "change up" arrow (US markets only?) lit with the hazards!
Yes, it was a pain, but once in I knew what was there (and that the press- outs in the chassis had been painted on the first car - the others had rubber seals on pre- stamped holes) I was a lot more confident of it's longevity.
I think with most modern cars it's a case of unbolting the rear cross member (certainly is on the ones I've owned) and bolting the hitch assy on in its place. I;ve used Witter bars, and only once had to cut the bumper, and that was on my sisters Much plastic-ed ST(?) when she took my old hitch.
These days? Unless I could get a "plug & play" electrics kit (i.e not have to actually plug in a laptop to manually tell the lighting module in the car there is now a trailer socket wired in) I wouldn't touch the electrics with a barge pole. (and might even go to a dealer, as I have a habit of putting a fair old mileage on my cars so would rather have something I know will work for the forseeable future.....
Alternative 3 - if you buy new the "factory fit" is sometimes not far off the price of going aftermarket. (was certaily the case with my current chariot). Just be aware that some "factory fit" are actually dealer fit and you'll jsut get a Witer or similar)
That reply got longer than I expected!
