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23 July 2014, 19:58
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 92
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Towing with the handbrake on ...
Was completely stupid on Sunday evening and towed the boat back from the slip to its storage site with the trailer handbrake left on.
About 5 miles, just within Southampton, so at about 30mph.
When I stopped to wash the boat down, noticed the wheels were hot. 3 were "warm" I.e. Warm to touch but not unbearably hot. 1 was definitely "hot" - touchable, but you wouldn't want to leave your fingers on it for very long.
Flushed the wheels with fresh water and cooled them down.
Question is - am I likely to have damaged something? My problem is that I'm towing to Scotland this Saturday. For the last few days I've been thinking it'll be ok, but now having a slight panic...
Any thoughts? Anything I can quickly check? Should say the trailer was serviced 3 weeks ago, so it was in fine order.
Gerry
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23 July 2014, 20:03
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Porchfield
Boat name: Katie
Make: Stingher
Length: 10m +
Engine: Verado 350 x 2
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 697
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Jack the wheels up, pop rims and brake drums off and have a look
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23 July 2014, 20:08
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
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Towing with the handbrake on ...
Wow I was shocked you were able to tow with the handbrake on and not realise. I couldn't move mine without dragging the locked up wheeles the few times I have hitched up and forgot to release it.
Sent from my iPhone using RIB Net
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23 July 2014, 20:35
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Depends on your position on adversity to risk.
If its as you say they sound fine to me .. but if a hand brake was really working they dont sound hot enough ? .... also depends on the age .... how new to you, etc
You can always slacken one cable to a drum if its pulling on more and heating up.... if theres trouble afoot although not so easy to do if the mechanism is seized
Belt and braces says pull all the drums to be sure
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23 July 2014, 22:11
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hampshire
Boat name: Altea 2
Make: Narwhal
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90 Mariner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 855
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Hi Gerry, you've got an RM Trailer, with their steel cable set up from memory? Think that will have been your saving grace tbh. I think the cable may have stretched slightly, allowing the drag and the handbrake may not have been fully on. If it had been M10 steel rod, instead of the cable, it may have been different.
Do you want to borrow my kit to drop the drums off to make sure all's ok? I won't need it tomorrow afternoon / evening, if that helps?
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24 July 2014, 01:43
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#6
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry
When I stopped to wash the boat down, noticed the wheels were hot. 3 were "warm" I.e. Warm to touch but not unbearably hot. 1 was definitely "hot" - touchable, but you wouldn't want to leave your fingers on it for very long.
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That is not hot at all. As mentioned above, I would be more concerned with why your handbrake was functioning in the first place.
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24 July 2014, 14:06
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 92
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Thanks for the inputs.
Yes Ben, it's the twin axle RM trailer.
I'm busy this evening, so popped to the boat at lunchtime. Jacked it up and tried to move the wheels. Pretty locked, but would just about move backwards.
Took the wheels off, whacked the drums, replaced the wheels and towed it round the storage compound a couple of times. Wheels freed up and brakes seemed to be pulling on the trailer correctly when I brought the car to a halt.
Jacked it up again and could freely move the wheels backwards, but still a bit "sticky" forwards.
Went to take the drum off and found my largest socket (32mm) isn't big enough. Measured the nut and thought it seemed to be 35mm, so went to nearest Halfords to find they only do 34mm or 36mm. Ran out of time and came back to work.
Anyone know what size socket I need - I assume the nut's are a standard size (it's not a crown style nut)? Is it an imperial size?
I assume I need to loosen the brake cable a bit. My main concern is that the heat would have melted the grease and put the bearings at risk.
The handbrake's never been great, but never bothered me. Habit from previous boats with unbraked trailers mean I always chock the wheels on the slipway.
Gerry
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24 July 2014, 15:19
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#8
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Are you talking about the hub nut? I just use a large pair of pliers (channel lock pliers.) Shouldn't be all that tight anyway. Just a tweak from finger tight.
jky
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24 July 2014, 16:20
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
Are you talking about the hub nut? I just use a large pair of pliers (channel lock pliers.) Shouldn't be all that tight anyway. Just a tweak from finger tight.
jky
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Thanks - a bit of web browsing this afternoon suggested just using pliers. Should have tried it since I had a pair with me. I'll have another look tomorrow lunchtime.
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25 July 2014, 01:02
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hampshire
Boat name: Altea 2
Make: Narwhal
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90 Mariner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 855
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Hi Gerry, think you had the sealed bearings, with flange nuts, from memory? i.e. no castellated nut and split pin?..
If so, they'll likely be 32 or 36mm socket. As you've tried 32, I'm guessing the latter.
Also, if so, you won't undo them with a pair of pliers, they'll be done up to around 280Nm.
If they do have a split pin through them, then an adjustable spanner / wrench will do the job.
You may need to borrow my gear. Let me know.
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25 July 2014, 16:01
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Length: no boat
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 92
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Yes, Ben. 36mm flange nut. I borrowed a 36mm socket and it came off fine.
Nothing looks disastrous inside (see pics), but I'm (clearly) not an expert... I just feared there'd be melted grease splattered everywhere.
I slackened the brakes slightly and all the wheels are now spinning pretty freely and the brakes work when I pull the cable. So, feeling a bit more relaxed about a long tow tomorrow (famous last words!).
Gerry
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25 July 2014, 21:09
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#12
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,106
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Looks like your seal has a nick in it. If you need to replace it you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. I would recommend buying a pair that does both inside and outside with the right size of tips. Spray the area with WD40 or the like and soak it. If the snap ring comes right out then great. If not, then use a hammer and punch to gently try to free the snap ring. Set the new seal in using a socket or the like that fits right to the edge of seal. Put grease thick into the spring area on the inside of the seal to keep the spring from popping off.
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07 August 2014, 06:52
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 170
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I'm surprised you managed to get so far with the handbrake on. Do you have an exceptionally powerful car? If not, the handbrake on your trailer needs serious attention, or the brakes are shot.
The last time I tried to pull an EMPTY trailer with the handbrake on, it was immediately obvious. It was dragging 4 locked wheels along the road and my car was making a lot of noise and not going anywhere very fast! The same trailer also held itself, a 1000kg load and my attached 1800kg car stationary on a hill with its own handbrake...
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07 August 2014, 08:18
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#14
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C
Looks like your seal has a nick in it. If you need to replace it you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. I would recommend buying a pair that does both inside and outside with the right size of tips. Spray the area with WD40 or the like and soak it. If the snap ring comes right out then great. If not, then use a hammer and punch to gently try to free the snap ring. Set the new seal in using a socket or the like that fits right to the edge of seal. Put grease thick into the spring area on the inside of the seal to keep the spring from popping off.
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We always put the bearings in the fridge and leave the casting in the sun, improves the tolerances for fitting. Does that circlip look right, if it's an internal one in a grove how are you going to compress it to get it out?
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