Go Back   RIBnet Forums > RIB talk > Trailers & towing
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 04 March 2013, 19:31   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Carpe Diem
Make: Ribeye 650S
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F150
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 548
Trailer Rigid Brake Cable Replacement

Hi, I have a indespension trailer but believe the brake cables are aftermarket and I am looking for a replacement as mine snapped over the weekend. The cable as you can see from the photo is rigid (stainless?) and there is one of these per wheel (single axle) and then a long one from damper coupling by the tow hitch to a rotating cam (located on axle). The part in question runs from the cam at the axle to the wheel and its has a nipple on the end (which then attaches to a standard knott brake shoe assembly). Does anyone know where I can get a replacement from as I can't find any on the internet?

Thanks Gareth

P.S. The cable overall length is 87cms

P.P.S. I would prefer to stick with this setup as I want to avoid the usual flexible cable set up as I have one on my other boat trailer and don't rate them!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0483.jpg
Views:	247
Size:	170.6 KB
ID:	77268   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0486.jpg
Views:	221
Size:	235.1 KB
ID:	77269   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0487.jpg
Views:	202
Size:	225.3 KB
ID:	77270  
__________________
whackywoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04 March 2013, 20:19   #2
Member
 
Trailer Guy's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hampshire
Boat name: Altea 2
Make: Narwhal
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90 Mariner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 855
Homemade jobbies I reckon.

You can buy Knott stainless cables now. Clearly a huge improvement over standard mild steel. They are told apart by the blue outer sheath, rather than the standard black. Likely £15 to £17ish each.

If you're after a solid bar to run from the compensator to the coupling then M10 brake rod is the ticket. Off the shelf item in 3m lengths. If you're after stainless for that too, then buy a length of M10 stainless and then tap the end that goes in to the M10 clevis on the coupling.
Trailer Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05 March 2013, 09:18   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Carpe Diem
Make: Ribeye 650S
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F150
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 548
Thanks for the response trailer guy!

Think the m10 threaded bar looks a good idea! Could I use the m10 Clevis on both ends of the bar so that an extended Clevis would connect to the shoe expander in the drum as the bar won't have a nipple?

Thanks again

Gareth
__________________
whackywoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05 March 2013, 11:42   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
Just be careful mixing stainless & mild steels in "homemade" gear - one of them will become a nice anode!

As TG says - M10 rod works well. Glav or shearardised might be a better bet. The reason you can get away with stainless in the flexis is that there's next to no "wet" surface area avaiable to complete the battery when you compare the cables to the rest of the brake gear.

A stainless brake rod will alter that balance somewhat!
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 22:50.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.