Trailer Setup

[Limecc]

Hi guys I'm giving a Bramber trailer some TLC and have found a few things that were wrong with the setup.
The bracket holding the bow snubber was upside down and not touching the hull and there was far too much weight on the keel roller. This was fairly obvious and easy to adjust.

Next I'm replacing the wobble roller spindles as described here
https://www.rib.net/forum/f49/wobble...les-84942.html

However I see that the rear rollers are not in line with the front and on a different chine. I don't like it. When I knock the lower hull with my knuckles there is a much more solid 'thud' than when I rap the outer chines. It's obvious the lower section is stronger and more rigid. I intend to move the roller carriages at least 6" outward along the swing beam, but the question is if this is a good idea and if so how far?

[beerbelly]

carefull if you move the rear rollers out to the chine you may find the keel at the bow fouls the swing beam as your winching in

[Orwell boy]

Originally Posted by beerbelly

carefull if you move the rear rollers out to the chine you may find the keel at the bow fouls the swing beam as your winching in

definite potential issue as BB suggests , as some on here know i always dry launch and retrieve ,and you can never do that unless the rollers are there to lift the bow up and over the swing arm ,which is why they are best close together

[Limecc]

Originally Posted by Orwell boy

definite potential issue as BB suggests , as some on here know i always dry launch and retrieve ,and you can never do that unless the rollers are there to lift the bow up and over the swing arm ,which is why they are best close together

I get this and it's good advice but how do you dry launch and how can it simulate reality? Hulls have different drafts, depths of V and all will float differently. Water is level and the trailer on an incline.

Obviously it would have to be hitched to prevent the trailer tipping.

As it stands now I worry about the stability of a (rear) heavy boat with small footprint on the trailer when towing. If I had to swerve or do an emergency manoeuvre then wow.. Load might shift or worse.

[paintman]

Shallow beach. Push the boat off onto & recover from the dry sand. Wait for the tide to float you. Enables use of suitable car/4x4 where otherwise a tractor would be required to get deep enough to float off/on. There may not be a conveniently located slipway where you want to use the boat.

If the boat's properly strapped down to the trailer it shouldn't shift.

To avoid any issues - such as hitting the beam or the load shifting due to inadequate support - caused by moving the rear rollers would it not be simpler to fit additional rollers outboard of your existing ones?

Random youtube beach recovery - quite a big boat!:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1FVFBAxK9k

[paintman]

Breakback trailers aren't that unusual & would do much the same job:
(Appreciate this is from the water but you get the idea)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxwLO4UYwFc

[Orwell boy]

Originally Posted by Limecc

I get this and it's good advice but how do you dry launch and how can it simulate reality? Hulls have different drafts, depths of V and all will float differently. Water is level and the trailer on an incline.

Obviously it would have to be hitched to prevent the trailer tipping.

As it stands now I worry about the stability of a (rear) heavy boat with small footprint on the trailer when towing. If I had to swerve or do an emergency manoeuvre then wow.. Load might shift or worse.

Ok ,bit of poetic liscence here , i try to never immerse more than the tyre wall plus maybe an inch ,but my slip is also steep into deep water so all helps however when i approach the first rollers they are well above water level ,as the bow approaches the first roller set tips to the shape of the hull /bow ,i then start winching up , if you have a look at the rollerbunk system which i have on my 19 ft rib trailer (best system by a mile for dry loading ) ,look carefully at the first pair of rollers ,they are positioned in order to pick up the bow as it aproaches ,,ps i never drive my boat onto the trailer ) , swinging cradles are all right and i have them on my 5.3 trailer so work ok ,but as they swing to recieve the bow the rollers are facing and fowling the tubes ,not a big issue but don,t love the thought of hypalon on the rollers
I know folks generally dont worry about dunking but i just feel happier when i set out on the road that hubs and brakes are in the safest condition they can be ,the thought of failing on our way to your venue does,nt bear thinking about . sorry i am a trailer anorak

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Limecc

Hi guys I'm giving a Bramber trailer some TLC and have found a few things that were wrong with the setup.
The bracket holding the bow snubber was upside down and not touching the hull and there was far too much weight on the keel roller. This was fairly obvious and easy to adjust.

Next I'm replacing the wobble roller spindles as described here
https://www.rib.net/forum/f49/wobble...les-84942.html

However I see that the rear rollers are not in line with the front and on a different chine. I don't like it. When I knock the lower hull with my knuckles there is a much more solid 'thud' than when I rap the outer chines. It's obvious the lower section is stronger and more rigid. I intend to move the roller carriages at least 6" outward along the swing beam, but the question is if this is a good idea and if so how far?

I spread the rollers apart on my solent rib at the back so the rollers run in an outer chine, the bow still doesn't foul the swing beam on entry but its transformed the trailer, the boat rides closer to the road so its more stable. The boat sits lower so water drains off the deck without the bow being high up in the air & launching is far easier as the boat just rolls off with a slight push. Definitely worth doing if you can get the clearance right

[Limecc]

Originally Posted by beamishken

I spread the rollers apart on my solent rib at the back so the rollers run in an outer chine

Definitely worth doing if you can get the clearance right

I think I'll move them 6" and check the clearance to see if it's possible to go further.

Originally Posted by paintman

To avoid any issues - such as hitting the beam or the load shifting due to inadequate support - caused by moving the rear rollers would it not be simpler to fit additional rollers outboard of your existing ones?

I could bolt a keel roller on I suppose. Don't think there's enough room for an extra set of carriages and I don't want to fit another swing beam.

[Last Tango]

Originally Posted by beamishken

I spread the rollers apart on my solent rib at the back so the rollers run in an outer chine, the bow still doesn't foul the swing beam on entry but its transformed the trailer, the boat rides closer to the road so its more stable. The boat sits lower so water drains off the deck without the bow being high up in the air & launching is far easier as the boat just rolls off with a slight push. Definitely worth doing if you can get the clearance right

+1

I have mine well apart to get the boat as low as possible on the trailer making it easier to launch and recover.

This is on a near perfect ramp but I've done the same on countless ramps and Queensferry with it's very shallow ramps is the only place I've had to "rope-out" the trailer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5or2vtkyHn8

[paddlers]

I also dry launch /recover with just the tyre at the waters edge but onto bunks. Why not fit a couple of keel rollers , there's even one that'll centre it. This should ensure the boat starts and stays central when you're winching it on .