Trailer Triplelock query

GaryC · 09 June 2010, 22:04

Just trying to get some thoughts on the locking mechanism on an Indespension Trailer.

Also this is in reference to a club owned boat so the treasurer has to be convinced.

The Triplelock key lock failed as a piece of the key broke off in the lock mechanism, causing difficulty in attaching the trailer to the car etc. Eventually it failed completely and fell apart causing even more grief. I had to drill out the barrel lock, so now there is no locking mechanism. Only the handle (that is pulled up) and the pull back lever (that is pushed away from the handle to allow it to rise)

Firstly I am told that a new lock can not be purchased and that the whole Triple lock and security bolt will need to be replaced. That is my preference. Someone else wants to buy a new security lock that can only be attached when the trailer is not attached to the car. This means that during the tow the handle is only restrained by the pull back latch. (the handle used to be secured also by the security lock that has now been removed)

My question: Is there any chance that during a tow, the handle could raise due to the pull back latch moving (it is under spring tension).

Resulting in a trailer disconnection from the tow ball and resultant crash etc. I know some of the smaller trailers do not have this lock. Just trying to ascertain the risk.

Thanks

Gary

oracle · 09 June 2010, 22:39

Not specifically Triplelock but the majority of trailer hitch locks that I've looked at state they should not be used when towing. They are definitely an anti theft device not a breakaway protection

Jeff · 09 June 2010, 22:53

Hi Gary
Removal of the triplelock mechanism will nor cause the hitch to become parted from the tow ball, and as Oracle points out, most 'add-on' hitchlocks cannot be used when towing.
Before buying a hitchlock - is this just an additional theft protection device ? ; your insurance probably states you need a wheel clamp and a hitchlock is not normally accepted as the primary anti theft device.
.... the hitchlock or those fitted to Banbury hitches that can be and 'lock' the trailer to the vehicle do give peace of mind at service stations :-)
Why are club treasurers all from the same mould ? Ours used to think it was a bank and not a dive club ..... boats and trailers cost £££'s to maintain lol

wavelength · 09 June 2010, 22:58

We have had probs round this area with the older cast couplings as opposed to the pressed ones - I think they were Doublelock. The handle has been insufficient to hold the hitch when an upthrust has been applied to the hitch (for instance when the hitch has insufficient load on it due to trailer balance and on one occcasion when a trailer was reversed onto a very steep slipwayslip. As the trailer went onto the steep gradient and the c of g moved so the trailer came off the tow vehicle and went straight down the slip). With a pin in these older couplings there have not been problems. I wouldnt tow the thing without a proper replacement job. Results of runaways have been a written off mini and a blackcab taxi which came off second best when it hit a runaway 6.3m humber ocean pro. The ocean pro was fine! If your runaway hits a car and wipes out a family and its then found you did a cheapo job on a known fault to save a few coppers - well speaks for itself dunnit!

fred bolton · 10 June 2010, 07:55

the cast type of hitches have a hole that goes through the casing and the lifting handle a long shackle padlock fits through this and effectively secures the handle so the hitch cannot be removed from the ball similarly it cannot be placed on the hitch until removed.

9D280 · 10 June 2010, 13:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavelength

We have had probs round this area with the older cast couplings as opposed to the pressed ones - I think they were Doublelock. The handle has been insufficient to hold the hitch when an upthrust has been applied to the hitch (for instance when the hitch has insufficient load on it due to trailer balance and on one occcasion when a trailer was reversed onto a very steep slipwayslip. As the trailer went onto the steep gradient and the c of g moved so the trailer came off the tow vehicle and went straight down the slip). With a pin in these older couplings there have not been problems.

3 questions - 1) were the doubleocks gubbed? 2) were they suffering the old 2" / 50mm problems?, (a possibility with a doublock as they have been around so long) and 3) did the peeps concerned even check it was properly hitched on in the first place?

Personally, if the spring catch was operational and I had checkerd it was attatched properly, I'd have no concerns wirh a doubleock (or in this case an "unlocked" tripleock). Having seen more than a few comments from fire / rescue services on various motoring forums, they much prefer it to be unlocked (as in no key / padlock) because in an emergency, what should be a 30s separation of the rig may end up involving a gas axe ......

spartacus · 19 June 2010, 11:14

Used to have a Triplelock on my Indespension Rollercoaster when I had a Zodiac Pro. Very pleased with the operational side of it, and it gave me peace of mind (regards security) when the trailer was unhitched and hitched. What I would say - is that I'm sure it get's overlooked on the maintenace side of things. I used to use Duckhams marine grease on the lock, working it in, then clean off the excess, that way it's properly lubed up. For the key to break inside, it must have been sticking and someone was heavy-handed.

Think the Triplelock is in the region of £100, compared to the standard hitch lock which is £45. First job you'll have is getting the old one off. There are two bolts securing it to the trailer drawpost, one of which is exposed. The other has a metal stop or bung hammered in over the top. You can definately unscrew the first bolt. Then you'll need to hacksaw off the exposed bolt thread and nut on the second one. Only way I can see you getting the bung out - is to use a cold chisel or similar on the cut down thread and hammer up - forcing the bung out. Either that - or find someone with access to a oxy acetylene torch and cut it off.

wavelength · 12 July 2010, 21:07

Quote:

were they suffering the old 2" / 50mm problems?, (a possibility with a doublock as they have been around so long)

so have I ( been around a long while that is). Nope proper 50mm matched fittings. When they come off it is ...erm interesting.! Seen one go down slip as said, another with a 6.3 ocean pro on it (not mine!) detached itself on a main road when it hit a notorious bump, which has seen a few cars leave the road at speed, and hit a "London" cab type taxi head on. Wrote the taxi off but the Humber was fine. One of the lads from the boat fishing club lost his 18footer on a roundabout and wrote a mini off.

Solent Ribman · 10 August 2010, 21:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

Used to have a Triplelock on my Indespension Rollercoaster when I had a Zodiac Pro. Very pleased with the operational side of it, and it gave me peace of mind (regards security) when the trailer was unhitched and hitched. What I would say - is that I'm sure it get's overlooked on the maintenace side of things. I used to use Duckhams marine grease on the lock, working it in, then clean off the excess, that way it's properly lubed up. For the key to break inside, it must have been sticking and someone was heavy-handed.

Think the Triplelock is in the region of £100, compared to the standard hitch lock which is £45. First job you'll have is getting the old one off. There are two bolts securing it to the trailer drawpost, one of which is exposed. The other has a metal stop or bung hammered in over the top. You can definately unscrew the first bolt. Then you'll need to hacksaw off the exposed bolt thread and nut on the second one. Only way I can see you getting the bung out - is to use a cold chisel or similar on the cut down thread and hammer up - forcing the bung out. Either that - or find someone with access to a oxy acetylene torch and cut it off.

Local Pikies are quite good for this!