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18 October 2013, 17:17
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 32
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Trailing a boat with outboard on the transom
Hi, it's my first time trailing my inflatable boat this Sunday with my 30HP on the transom. Should I tilt the outboard and lift it up and lock it in place while trailing or should I just leave it down? The boat is on a bunk trailer with a middle support pad for the transom to rest on.
Please advise. Thanks.
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18 October 2013, 19:15
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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Tilt & lock. If you leave it down you might find the skeg comes into contact with the road surface or the top of a speed hump with the attendant risk of damage.
I do leave my back-up engine down, but its a lot higher than the main & the trailer would ground long before the engine.
Cover the bottom of the leg & prop with a large highly visible bag as it usually sticks out a fair way behind the boat & it will provide a warning & some protection to those who don't notice it. I use an old bright red rucksack, but a thick plastic bag should be fine.
Try to let the wheel bearings cool down before immersing them as the sudden cooling of hot bearings will help water to get in - if you can avoid getting the wheels in that deep then that's the best course.
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18 October 2013, 19:29
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,693
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I'd disagree. When I am towing the smaller engines I block it with some wood half trimmed down, so its clear of the floor. I don't use the tilt lock as they are weak at this HP and often bounce out.
Some makes are better than others but that's what I'd do.
www.BoatsandOutboards4Sale.co.uk
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18 October 2013, 19:34
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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Interesting. Mine's a 135 Mercury so its power tilt & the lock is a decent lump. Hadn't thought of the piece of wood idea!
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18 October 2013, 19:39
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#5
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Hants
Length: 8m +
Engine: 300hp plus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,072
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The lock on engine at top rise position is designed for use by engineers working on the engine and not whilst trailering
Best advice is to lower the engine as far as safely possible for trailing and lift a little and lower onto a block of wood to hold and support. The higher you trail with engine uo the bigger the strain on the transom as it pivots
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18 October 2013, 20:32
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
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As I can't edit it, sounds like you'd best to ignore my post.
Going to have a rummage in the shed for a decent piece of wood.....
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18 October 2013, 20:46
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 32
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i have been reading on the internet, sounds like the best thing to do is to use a piece of wood in between the transom and outboard to tilt it that way and rather use the tilt lock as it has a lot of force on it.
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18 October 2013, 23:54
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#8
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Member
Country: Canada
Boat name: WB465
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 2013 ETEC 30
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 256
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I have an ETEC 30 and Evinrude specifically states in the owner's manual to NOT trailer while tilted.
Do you have electric tilt? If not, then by putting the trim pin in the outermost hole and locking the engine in down (running) position onto the trim pin in that position, you might have enough clearance. That's what I do.
You can also get a transom saver (attached pic).
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19 October 2013, 04:40
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#9
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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If you're tiller steered, tying the motor to one side or the other (or centered if you're handy with knots) will keep it from flopping side to side as you negotiate curves.
jky
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19 October 2013, 17:46
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#10
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Projectile
You can also get a transom saver (attached pic).
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Oh how I hate those things.
Any movement, however slight, of the boat on the trailer is transferred through the tilt mechanism of the engine.
Nasher
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19 October 2013, 17:56
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#11
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Member
Country: Canada
Boat name: WB465
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 2013 ETEC 30
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 256
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Transom savers are recommended by Evinrude for the ETEC30 if it cannot be trailered locked in the down (run) position.
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19 October 2013, 18:26
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Looe/Fowey
Make: Honwave 4.0
Length: 4m +
Engine: mariner 20 4 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 46
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Hi
Are there any purpose made supports for sale in the uk?
I use the trim pin in highest position and tie the leg against this to stop it bouncing
I avoid speed bumps and kerbs like the plague
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19 October 2013, 20:03
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#13
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher
Oh how I hate those things.
Any movement, however slight, of the boat on the trailer is transferred through the tilt mechanism of the engine.
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True, but a) the boat shouldn't move on the trailer; b) without support, any bouncing, penduluming or other road caused jarring gets transferred to the pivot tubes and on to the transom. I remember watching the transom on my SIB get rocked back and forth by over an inch, which is why I now use transom savers.
jky
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22 October 2013, 18:20
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2 RIBS
Best advice is to lower the engine as far as safely possible for trailing and lift a little and lower onto a block of wood to hold and support. The higher you trail with engine uo the bigger the strain on the transom as it pivots
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+1 for the wood.
Would debate the leverage thing tho'. Tilted a good chunk of the powerhead weight is forward of the transom, whereas when down most is behind...
On phone so can't multi quote.
As for the trailer saver - as all trailers are padded to a degree, there must by definition be movement of the hull relative to the chassis, which will also bend slightly at every impact...
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22 October 2013, 18:50
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#15
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Hants
Length: 8m +
Engine: 300hp plus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
+1 for the wood.
Would debate the leverage thing tho'. Tilted a good chunk of the powerhead weight is forward of the transom, whereas when down most is behind...
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Good Point on the weight. We have been told by Yamaha and their enigeers NOT to use the lever support on a trailer, it was designed for engineers working on engine rams etc. Thats their account
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22 October 2013, 18:58
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
+1 for the wood.
Would debate the leverage thing tho'. Tilted a good chunk of the powerhead weight is forward of the transom, whereas when down most is behind...
On phone so can't multi quote.
As for the trailer saver - as all trailers are padded to a degree, there must by definition be movement of the hull relative to the chassis, which will also bend slightly at every impact...
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Which is the same stresses as when the engine is in use so it doesn't really make much difference.
Wood it, job done.
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24 October 2013, 14:03
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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well, if you ignore the extra HP trying to lever it off when it's in use.......
But yes, I think we are meandering down the same train of thought here.......
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25 October 2013, 00:37
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher
Oh how I hate those things.
Any movement, however slight, of the boat on the trailer is transferred through the tilt mechanism of the engine.
Nasher
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I agree with you Nasher with hydraulic Tilt and Trim outboards like ours, but not such a problem with manual tilt outboards providing they are free to go up and down.
Wood still your best option though!
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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25 October 2013, 01:01
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintman
Cover the bottom of the leg & prop with a large highly visible bag as it usually sticks out a fair way behind the boat & it will provide a warning & some protection to those who don't notice it.
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This. If your overhang is over 1 metre long then it must be clearly marked, but even if it's less than it's still a good idea. Get a cheap high-vis jacket and tie it over the prop.
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