Which suspension units?

[jwalker]

The trailer I built in 2003 finally needs a suspension replacement. The present suspension units, 6 of them, are made by Peak and have taper roller bearings on each end, however there's a good deal on the Avonride suspension units with the single centre bearing stainless steel and the units are galvanized. I've never used these units, any views on either/or of these units?
TIA.

[paintman]

Taper rollers are easy to check.

If the avonride ones are the 'sealed for life' ball bearing variety then you have no way of checking their condition.
Fine on stuff that doesn't get dunked in the sea & is only exposed to normal road surface water.

[jakew009]

Originally Posted by jwalker

The trailer I built in 2003 finally needs a suspension replacement. The present suspension units, 6 of them, are made by Peak and have taper roller bearings on each end, however there's a good deal on the Avonride suspension units with the single centre bearing stainless steel and the units are galvanized. I've never used these units, any views on either/or of these units?
TIA.

If you are mechanical (which you must be if you built your own trailer), I’d stick with the standard taper bearings.

They cost beans and you can easily replace them at the side of the road if necessary with little more than a screwdriver and hammer to knock them out.
You can also drop the hub off and check the condition of them easily and repack them grease before going on a long trip.

On a sealed bearing you need a press to change them and they are torqued on with a nut which is done up ft.
You also can’t check the condition of them or repack them, you’ve no idea when they are about to fail.

Sealed bearings are perhaps better if you’ve no intention on doing any maintenance on your trailer at all because you will get an extra year or so before they fail spectacularly.

[Pikey Dave]

I’ve had both types of bearings on various trailers. Taper roller & Alko sealed for life waterproof. I prefer the sealed for life. They were dunked & did “inter-continental” mileage, I never had one fail.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

I’ve had both types of bearings on various trailers. Taper roller & Alko sealed for life waterproof. I prefer the sealed for life. They were dunked & did “inter-continental” mileage, I never had one fail.

100%

Just yesterday completed my 9th 1000m+( Two 1400m+) Tow ...(Heavy 6.8m Ribcraft loaded with gear) too and fro from Scotland (four wheel trailer) and countless other longish hauls to Wales ..Cornwall ect .. pluss many many more locally.
ALL with commensurate launch and recovery Dunkings!
On SAME set of "Sealed for life Alco Bearings"....
I also pack Bearing savers with grease ... Why wouldn't you?
Have Changed 3 sets of cables and Brake parts as needed.

From new I also smear waterproof grease on inside of wheels..suspension units ....cable connectors ....hubs...ect you only need do it once.
You soon will find road dust/grit ect will soon cover and fix to and the grease....but wipe it away and it's like new underneath.
Has worked ...and still Works for me!
Reading this back...
Think I may have had fair use of these ones... and although no noise or vibration pressent ...may well change for SAME...
At the END! of the Season

[beamishken]

I prefer taper rollers with grease points, the brakes require regular attention anyway & repacking the taper bearings while your doing the brakes isn't a chore imho. You can also give them a couple of pumps with a grease gun now & then to refresh the grease or use bearing buddies. You can also replace taper bearings anywhere with basic tools. Sealed bearings usually need a press to replace, are expensive cant be greased nor checked for internal corrosion ok if the trailer never sees water but if it gets dunked then not for me.
Only ever lost a wheel once due to a failed bearing & it was on a 9 month old trailer with sealed bearings which had been dunled 6 times ish fortunately it was twin axle & empty at the time. Somewhere between Southampton and Durham hopefully it didnt hurt anyone[emoji856]

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by beamishken

I prefer taper rollers with grease points, the brakes require regular attention anyway & repacking the taper bearings while your doing the brakes isn't a chore imho. You can also give them a couple of pumps with a grease gun now & then to refresh the grease or use bearing buddies. You can also replace taper bearings anywhere with basic tools. Sealed bearings usually need a press to replace, are expensive cant be greased nor checked for internal corrosion ok if the trailer never sees water but if it gets dunked then not for me.
Only ever lost a wheel once due to a failed bearing & it was on a 9 month old trailer with sealed bearings which had been dunled 6 times ish fortunately it was twin axle & empty at the time. Somewhere between Southampton and Durham hopefully it didnt hurt anyone[emoji856]

Hopefully!
Was it a Taperd Bearing that failed by any Chance!??

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Maximus

Hopefully!
Was it a Taperd Bearing that failed by any Chance!??

No it was a sealed for life ball bearing hence my preference for taper bearings

[Orwell boy]

Whatever your choice ! wouldnt let the need for a press bit put you off,when i had a single axle with sealed for life bearings i carried two spare hubs c/w bearings fitted ,needless to say i never used them !....worst thing re trailer axles is the al-ko hollow tin suspension arms imho to be avoided ,however they do ride better than most ,but they rust from the inside out and even the best can be caught out .

[Limecc]

Originally Posted by Orwell boy

worst thing re trailer axles is the al-ko hollow tin suspension arms imho to be avoided ,however they do ride better than most ,but they rust from the inside out and even the best can be caught out .

Do you mean like these, are they hollow?
Seems I dodged a bullet, a new axle was first job I did.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by beamishken

No it was a sealed for life ball bearing hence my preference for taper bearings

Of course....
whatever bearings you prefer to use...you must inspect and test them regularly...must have been pretty bad to loose a wheel!

[jwalker]

Okidokey, thanks for the insights guys. I'm aware of the ease of bearing removal etc on the tapered system but, although I carried a spare bearing kit, in all the years I've trailered I've never had a roadside failure so although a consideration not a biggy.. For those who followed the Delta thread I intend to do the same bronze axle mod from the outset so my thinking on the Avonride system was to load each side of the bearing cavity with water resistant grease, of which I happen to have a 1cwt tub!, then with the stainless bearing and a proper seal at both ends it might prove to be less hassle than the tapered system but.... questions number 2 and 3... How is the hub removed? I'm guessing the bearing is a slide fit on the axle and once the nut is removed it just slides off, is this correct? And, what makes the nut a one shot use, is it staked after tightening? Ta.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by Limecc

Do you mean like these, are they hollow?
Seems I dodged a bullet, a new axle was first job I did.

Would have been mine too
.....Also don't forget to replace all the steel roller washers whith Stainless ones (along with the Split pins!) if it's not already done...you'll wish you had if you don't!

That's why it helps to plaster every part of import with quality waterproof grease...and pay as much attention to hosing the Trailer down as the Boat itself....even the internals of the Trailer are easily done whith a pressure power Hose..
.I also have hub flushing kits on mine....not saying it will stop all corrosion forever but WILL certainly extend the life of key equipment expidentialy!

I like to stop at Garages on the way home with "pay as you spray" Car cleaning bays (Hot low pressure wash then High pressure rinse) when at all possible.... as I did indeed last evening even after a 11hr pluss drive from the Highlands.
Exception being if I happen drive home in a rain storm....when I just leave the auto bilge pumps on
Just One of the reasons I never travel with a cover on.

[Orwell boy]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Okidokey, thanks for the insights guys. I'm aware of the ease of bearing removal etc on the tapered system but, although I carried a spare bearing kit, in all the years I've trailered I've never had a roadside failure so although a consideration not a biggy.. For those who followed the Delta thread I intend to do the same bronze axle mod from the outset so my thinking on the Avonride system was to load each side of the bearing cavity with water resistant grease, of which I happen to have a 1cwt tub!, then with the stainless bearing and a proper seal at both ends it might prove to be less hassle than the tapered system but.... questions number 2 and 3... How is the hub removed? I'm guessing the bearing is a slide fit on the axle and once the nut is removed it just slides off, is this correct? And, what makes the nut a one shot use, is it staked after tightening? Ta.

I believe the one shot nut is slightly dished ,when you torque it down this has a flattening effect on the nut which causes a shake proof effect ,think athough not sure the shafts are parralel and the bearings are pressed into the hubs and push on to a shoulder on the shaft ,the nuts locate to the inner race of the bearing