Advice about transporting 15 HP Yamaha on Honwave t35

[seasure]

So far the only difficulty I have with my newly acquired hobby is that I always need to rely on a second person to come out with me so that I can lift the outboard out of the boot, fix to the transom and vice versa. I'd rather have the flexibility of doing it all by myself especially that I already have a garage to keep the sib trailered in.

I usually travel up to 1.5 hours each way. I use a flat bed trailer and there is no ground clearance at all if I mount the outboard in the down position.

Some would argue transport it in the tilted position. Others including the manufacturer say this creates stress on the locking mechanism. However, I came across this small device on ebay appears to be rubber like that sits between the locking mechanism and absorbs the shock. Look at this on eBay M-Y Wedge universal single ram transom saver motor toter outboard Mercury Yamaha At £65 is it totally necessary?

So that's that concern raised, the other is that of the transom, will it suffer too much stress due to the continuous bouncing and weaken the structure?

How about transporting it in the down position, could I potentially modify the trailer to raise the stern for enough ground clearance without jeopardising ease of recovery?

Now with the outboard permanently mounted on the transom, the sib is significantly heavier. Do I now need a winch on the trailer to assist with recovery?[emoji53]

Maybe I should just scrap the Flatbed Trailer and get a bunk/roller trailer with a winch?
Or should I just ditch the whole SIB setup and go for a RIB?[emoji12] (I'm very impulsive so I'm trying to be sensible here)

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[jeffstevens763@g]

well i have my SIB on a trailer i transport with the engine up with a piece of HDPE plastic between the engine clamp so all the weight is on that [you can use wood], then i have a strap on the engine leg down to the trailer holding it firm. most trailers arn't high enough to transport with the leg down for risk of it bouncing on bumps/pot holes etc.plus the higher you go the deeper water you need to get the boat off.i use a winch on mine to recover the boat and docking arms to line it up so its in the correct position when pulled on.ribs are easy with rollers on the trailer and a one man operation it took minutes to launch my 6 m rib.
i often thought about rollers for the SIB they would have to be multi sets to give as much support as possible the RNLI do with some of their surf SIBS but dont travel far.

cheers

[jeffstevens763@g]

you could set your flat bed up so that you have your boat on a launch trolley and just slide it off the trailer to launch pull back on with a winch.or if you set it up with a bit of thought you can fit launch wheels to the transom drop them down when at the slipway lift the bow up until they touch and push back and wheel into the water, load all kit after.

cheers

[kaman]

Got a picture of the Sib on the trailer?
I've got the same Sib its permanently trailered.
At 52kg my Tohatsu 20hp 4 stroke is a heavy lump to lift out of the boot and onto the sib transom.
I only ever tow with the engine on for very short distances as it seriously reduces the nose weight of the trailer.
I mostly go out on my own so I un-hitch the trailer and spin it around 180 degrees so the the transom is next to the car boot.
Lift engine out and sit it straight on the transom, secure it and re attach the trailer.
The car has a reverse camera on it so sometimes I leave the trailer standing and reverse the car accordingly.
Is the yamaha a 2 or a 4 stroke and how heavy is it?

[psycho]

Unfortunately, I have no picture of it, but will try and describe mine.
I had similar kind of dilemma, but mine was on a bunked trailer. I had an off cut of 3" x 3" fence post lying around, and fashioned my own 'transom saver' from it, and it worked a treat.
On one end, I cut a 'V' shape in it, for the lower unit of the leg to sit in, then glued in a piece of flat rubber to protect. The other end was cut and shaped to accomodate the shape of where it sat, which was underneath the rear bunk support, just under the transom. The engine was then tilted all the way up to get past the different locking positions, then lowered onto the saver. I then used a quick release strap, to hold it all in place, which created a 'triangle' and it was solid, no movement at all, from the engine or the transom.

[Poly]

Your eBay link will be no use on a small o/board. It is designed for big engines with hydraulic trim rams.

You want something like psycho describes that transfers the engine load direct to the trailer.

[Explore Cowal]

I had similar thoughts/problems. I had a wooden transom saver but it got in the way for loading the boat due to the v hull. I've changed this for rollers now. I travelled with the engine down with a strap taking the weight of engine as tied over the wood, well at least stops bounce.

The wheel set up gives the same support and I can pass a strap over the two V's of each roller set and support the engine.
More detail here

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/maiden-...elp-72867.html

[seasure]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

you could set your flat bed up so that you have your boat on a launch trolley and just slide it off the trailer to launch pull back on with a winch.or if you set it up with a bit of thought you can fit launch wheels to the transom drop them down when at the slipway lift the bow up until they touch and push back and wheel into the water, load all kit after.

cheers

Thats kind of what I'm doing at the moment minus transporting the outboard on the sib. However, the problem I find with the transom wheels is that when I'm in the water it is extremely difficult to remove them because the buoyancy tends to force the wheels upwards but to remove them I need to unscrew and force the wheels down wards to unhook! Not sure if I'm doing something wrong but It is such an effort!
[emoji29]

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[seasure]

Originally Posted by kaman

Got a picture of the Sib on the trailer?
I've got the same Sib its permanently trailered.
At 52kg my Tohatsu 20hp 4 stroke is a heavy lump to lift out of the boot and onto the sib transom.
I only ever tow with the engine on for very short distances as it seriously reduces the nose weight of the trailer.
I mostly go out on my own so I un-hitch the trailer and spin it around 180 degrees so the the transom is next to the car boot.
Lift engine out and sit it straight on the transom, secure it and re attach the trailer.
The car has a reverse camera on it so sometimes I leave the trailer standing and reverse the car accordingly.
Is the yamaha a 2 or a 4 stroke and how heavy is it?

I don't have a picture to hand right now but the f15 is a 4 stroke weigh in at 51 kg (111 lb)

It all adds a significant amount of time and effort I'm hoping someone here has a proved solution to transport it on the transom for long distances.

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[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by seasure

Thats kind of what I'm doing at the moment minus transporting the outboard on the sib. However, the problem I find with the transom wheels is that when I'm in the water it is extremely difficult to remove them because the buoyancy tends to force the wheels upwards but to remove them I need to unscrew and force the wheels down wards to unhook! Not sure if I'm doing something wrong but It is such an effort!
[emoji29]

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i have 350mm dia wheels not that bad to push down to get out of the slots not sure how yours work to comment on your difficulty. i have traveled thousands of miles with a piece of wood or hard plastic between the clamp on the engine never had a problem.
could you fair better if you ditch the transom wheels and have an inflatable roller at the stern between the trailer and boat and roll off inflate and deflate accordingly £20 each force 4 chandlers fenlander just bought some and gurnard uses them extensively with his big SIB.

[seasure]

Originally Posted by psycho

Unfortunately, I have no picture of it, but will try and describe mine.
I had similar kind of dilemma, but mine was on a bunked trailer. I had an off cut of 3" x 3" fence post lying around, and fashioned my own 'transom saver' from it, and it worked a treat.
On one end, I cut a 'V' shape in it, for the lower unit of the leg to sit in, then glued in a piece of flat rubber to protect. The other end was cut and shaped to accomodate the shape of where it sat, which was underneath the rear bunk support, just under the transom. The engine was then tilted all the way up to get past the different locking positions, then lowered onto the saver. I then used a quick release strap, to hold it all in place, which created a 'triangle' and it was solid, no movement at all, from the engine or the transom.

Sounds like your setup is going to be my best bet...do you use a winch for recovery?

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[jeffstevens763@g]

this is my set up on a bunk trailer lift engine up slot plastic rod in lower down fasten with a single ratchet strap job done.

engine in down position in these though

[psycho]

Originally Posted by seasure

Sounds like your setup is going to be my best bet...do you use a winch for recovery?

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There is a winch on the trailer, but whether I use it, depends on recovery conditions and depth of water, angle of slip, etc...!

Most of the time, winch was not needed, but occasionally used, if needed.

[Explore Cowal]

Originally Posted by seasure

Thats kind of what I'm doing at the moment minus transporting the outboard on the sib. However, the problem I find with the transom wheels is that when I'm in the water it is extremely difficult to remove them because the buoyancy tends to force the wheels upwards but to remove them I need to unscrew and force the wheels down wards to unhook! Not sure if I'm doing something wrong but It is such an effort!
[emoji29]

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I've only had my HW out the once. I fitted the transom wheels whilst standing in the water, wasn't to hard. Sure I read somewhere that someone had filled or part filled the tyres with water making submerging easier?!

[Fenlander]

What model wheels do you have Seasure?

I had just the same problem and solved it for under £20 with new solid wheels that have negative buoyancy... what an improvement.

See here...http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/best-wh...els-72495.html

Post #24

[seasure]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

What model wheels do you have Seasure?

I had just the same problem and solved it for under £20 with new solid wheels that have negative buoyancy... what an improvement.

See here...http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/best-wh...els-72495.html

Post #24

I bought mine off ebay they are large pneumatic ones with an orange centre. I came across the solid ones you have right now but I thought it would be easier to use the pneumatics on sand... But like everything it's a trade off [emoji6]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

What model wheels do you have Seasure?

I had just the same problem and solved it for under £20 with new solid wheels that have negative buoyancy... what an improvement.

See here...http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/best-wh...els-72495.html

Post #24

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[paddlers]

My solution to the buoyant wheel problem was to get 4" stainless stubs welded on. They sit just above the transom when in the up positi

on.

[paddlers]

In position on the boat. Makes life easier as we tend to motor out to deeper water loaded then lift the wheels up. Also put them in position and motor into the beach as it's so shallow.