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20 February 2017, 08:53
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Benfleet
Make: Honda Honwave T40
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 4 stroke
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 79
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Advice please?
Hi guys.
I'll be fitting my transom mounted launch wheels this week.
They come with instructions...... But you guys seem really helpful and knowledgeable so was wondering if anyone has any helpful hints, tips or advice before I start drilling holes in my new boat.
Thanks in advance
Cliff
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20 February 2017, 09:20
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,927
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Cliff have a read through this thread...
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/trem-hd...tec-69303.html
In particular from post #22 on where I reported on fitting mine. Whatever the brand the principles are the same...
Make sure legs are on the right way round with wheels to outside... mount so the outboard skeg clears the ground as well as possible... check they will clear the tube ends as they swing up... check the outboard can turn fully when they are flipped up (I'm assuming this is the type you'll be fitting?)... only use stainless nuts and bolts... seal the bolt holes with a proper marine sealant etc.
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20 February 2017, 12:29
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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all as fenlander has said just as an alternative i didnt drill through i used s/s coach bolts because they drill them selves in giving a better seal and they have bolt heads easier to do up and undo, just me but i always seem to twist the philips heads so they dont grip.
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20 February 2017, 20:20
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Benfleet
Make: Honda Honwave T40
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 4 stroke
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 79
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Thanks chaps, you boys are my new best friends
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20 February 2017, 20:49
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,493
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Always (goes without saying) measure and check numerous times before drilling.
And when drilling start with a very small pilot hole all the way through (3mm) and work your way up in sizes of bit from each side to the middle - don't just charge through with a large bit and break out the ply in a horrible mess.
I like to use SS bolts and 'eye' nuts on the inside rather than regular hex nuts as they are handy points to clip to, pics below:
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/rigging...tec-71912.html
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20 February 2017, 21:06
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Benfleet
Make: Honda Honwave T40
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 4 stroke
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 79
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Thanks Max. What do you mean by 'eye' nuts?
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20 February 2017, 21:10
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Benfleet
Make: Honda Honwave T40
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 4 stroke
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 79
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Ah ha, just seen them on your thread Max. Definitely worth getting!
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21 February 2017, 10:49
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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Parts for Tohatsu M9.9D2 M15D2 & M18E2
cliff just found this on rib shop might be of use in the future
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21 February 2017, 17:03
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Benfleet
Make: Honda Honwave T40
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 4 stroke
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
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Cheers Jeff, always handy thanks mate.
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21 February 2017, 18:58
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max...
Always (goes without saying) measure and check numerous times before drilling.
And when drilling start with a very small pilot hole all the way through (3mm) and work your way up in sizes of bit from each side to the middle - don't just charge through with a large bit and break out the ply in a horrible mess.
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Its a good idea with ply to drill from both sides and meet in the middle
Stewart
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21 February 2017, 19:42
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamsbairn
Its a good idea with ply to drill from both sides and meet in the middle
Stewart
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Agree with that Stewart stops the splintering!!
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jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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21 February 2017, 20:30
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jambo
Agree with that Stewart stops the splintering!!
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Jambo the same goes for GRP's of any kind and wood
Stewart
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21 February 2017, 20:37
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,166
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Advice please?
When doing this kind of work, I always try & temporary fix the bits in place using clamps, mole grips or whatever. Check for fouling & alignment. Even a couple of mill. here & there can make a difference between fitting & not.
Measure twice, cut/drill once.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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21 February 2017, 20:54
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Benfleet
Make: Honda Honwave T40
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 4 stroke
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 79
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Thanks guys for all the great advice.
I'll be measuring about 10 times before I drill any holes in my new baby
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21 February 2017, 21:32
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamsbairn
Its a good idea with ply to drill from both sides and meet in the middle
Stewart
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Not sure why you quoted me as that's exactly what I described if you read the post!
A tiny pilot hole drilled carefully will cause no break out (clamp a piece of scrap material over the exit to be doubly sure if worried) and......"work your way up in sizes of bit from each side to the middle - don't just charge through with a large bit and break out the ply in a horrible mess..."
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21 February 2017, 21:33
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#16
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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This place isn't what it used to be - 36 hrs in and only 14 posts on hole drilling thread.
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21 February 2017, 22:36
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Forfar
Make: DSB Zephyr
Length: 4m +
Engine: outboard 40hp Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 119
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some people like reading a short novel rather than War and Peace
just saying like
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22 February 2017, 09:06
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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its a bit like school wev'e taught all we know to last years students all new faces this year & so it goes on.
use proper wood cutting bits which leaves a pilot hole on the other side
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22 February 2017, 11:16
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#19
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,927
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For larger holes than to take a bolt I've always managed with flat wood bits and auger bits plus jigsaw and filing out as needed... with care always made a decent job.
But invested in this set last year when I changed all the doors in the house and needed to drill larger holes for the handle/lock.
Brilliant bit of kit which makes such a neat job and quick too.
Titan Holesaws 15 Piece Set | Holesaw Sets | Screwfix.com
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