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20 August 2016, 00:02
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 Efi
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 58
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Aerotec 380 questions
Just made the change from a Honwave to the Aerotec and not yet had a chance to get afloat.
I've got a couple of questions about a thwart /seat - the Honwave had 2 seat positions which we found useful, but do people usually just sit on the tube when helming /driving the Aerotecs?
I can't see any spare parts for the black PVC flange the Aerotec seat mounts on to if i wanted a second seat, and can't see any red (or black) patches to put on the tube with the webbing strap type of seat fitting. making the seat itself isn't a problem.
So any possible sources for the seat mount patches - do people use the rear seat anyway? and lastly, (for now) any recommendations for a matt black paint to retouch the transom?
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20 August 2016, 07:46
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,930
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Yes people sit on the tube.
The Aerotec is quite small inside so I couldn't see a need for alternative seat positions and certainly if the standard posn was in use there is no room for a second seat.
For transom paint pretty well any exterior grade brush on will do... satin or matt finish. I've used a Halfords own brand paint on mine which brushes out well and dries quickly.
It's either this or the matt version...
Halfords Enamel Paint Matt Black 25...
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20 August 2016, 14:28
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 Efi
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 58
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Thanks, I'll give that paint a try - it seems to say it's compatible with most other types of paint so all good.
For the bench seat, we found the option of moving into the centre quite handy on the Honwave, can catch a bit of spray sitting on the tube, although as you say it is a bit narrower, but only 6cm according to the spec.
The previous owner had oars fitted and they stow inside of the grab rail - pretty much where I would expect to sit on the tube, so I may just stow them inside the boat when not needed - I would have probably preferred them to stow outside which is more conventional I guess. Maybe I'll modify that too.
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20 August 2016, 17:45
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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Ron Hale Marine Ltd - Zoom Seat Retaining Patches
here you go there is a flange as well but dont know if thats what you want but Ross at Ron hale marine will sort you out
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20 August 2016, 18:38
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 Efi
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 58
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Thank, yes I saw those -
I was thinking about the PVC 'flange' the original seat bolts to, but I thing the type you've highlighted would do just as well £9.99 on ebay!
They have the two plastic angled mouldings to suit, but I will call Ron Hale and ask them what they have thanks.
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20 August 2016, 19:03
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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Not quite sure what you want but thinking the seat actually bolts to the flange stuck on the boat rather than the plastic plate screwed to the seat which fits behind the tapes as I picked.have a look on all the spares Avon etc might be something there but Ross will sort you out best e-mail him a picture first he will respond.
Cheers
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21 August 2016, 09:07
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#7
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,930
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Ahh appreciate the oar stowage makes sitting on the tube difficult... I'd move the oars.
I don't think you do but if you wanted to keep it OE I'm betting the fabric flaps the seat attaches to are not available as a spare... and the seat bolts/nuts alone are £60 a set. So the generic Chinese hook type and make your own seat would be he way to go.
But still unsure about this... forget the actual dimensions... when you inflate the Aerotec it will feel a good bit smaller inside than the Honwave. The existing seat is in a mid posn as they never intended a second to be fitted... so if you added one they will be quite close together.
Edit: Whatever you eventually do I'd not change anything until you've had a couple of runs out with the different loads you might carry. I've found the Aerotec is a little different in the way it goes to other SIBs and the ability for me on the tiller to slide up and down the tube during a run depending on conditions is most helpful and a seat would prevent this.
I've also found once you learn to trim the boat's attitude according to wave height/direction the Aerotec keeps the tiller person dry when sitting on the tube.
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21 August 2016, 10:37
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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Inflatable thwart seat put it were you want?
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21 August 2016, 12:22
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 Efi
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
Ahh appreciate the oar stowage makes sitting on the tube difficult... I'd move the oars.
I don't think you do but if you wanted to keep it OE I'm betting the fabric flaps the seat attaches to are not available as a spare... and the seat bolts/nuts alone are £60 a set. So the generic Chinese hook type and make your own seat would be he way to go.
But still unsure about this... forget the actual dimensions... when you inflate the Aerotec it will feel a good bit smaller inside than the Honwave. The existing seat is in a mid posn as they never intended a second to be fitted... so if you added one they will be quite close together.
Edit: Whatever you eventually do I'd not change anything until you've had a couple of runs out with the different loads you might carry. I've found the Aerotec is a little different in the way it goes to other SIBs and the ability for me on the tiller to slide up and down the tube during a run depending on conditions is most helpful and a seat would prevent this.
I've also found once you learn to trim the boat's attitude according to wave height/direction the Aerotec keeps the tiller person dry when sitting on the tube.
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Thanks Fenlander, that pretty much hits the spot - I wondered if the OE flaps /flanges were available - so if not that's one option ruled out. I had been thinking of not necessarily having to have two seats fitted simultaneously but having the option to move the std one into a position further back - so I could use the original seat and bolts - can't figure why they are so expensive!
The bow bag takes up a lot of room (we didn't use one on the Honwave) and the fuel tank has been positioned between the bench seat and bow bag so not much leg room.
I'm pretty sure the answer is as you suggest, get on the water and see what the priorities are.
It's a long shot but does anyone on the forum think the plastic bases for the oar mounts would be feasible to remove from the tube? I don't like the idea of splashing too much MEK around to soften the glue but maybe with a heat gun and patience they may peel off? (The oar mounts are generic style with the pivot rod and captive nut, not Bombard/Zodiac socket ones)
I'll have a think about the inflatable thwart - always figures they would behave like a trampoline but maybe very comfortable
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09 October 2016, 20:12
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: RC 4.8 & Aero380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 278
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Not sure about an inflatable thwart given the floor shape of the Aerotec?
The flange for the seat looks like it's been made from pvc folded and glued, the seat tapers in towards the bow so may not fit as easy if you moved it towards the transom. You could make it fit but a replacement could also be easily made.
I have just set my Aerotec up for crossbar steering and use the fitted seat to helm, but plan to fit a second seat to the rear for the odd occasion my family join me. I've got a couple of small kids and I don't want them sitting on the tubes.
I have ordered some pvc and glue and am going to make a seat, though appreciate it may affect any resale value if you plan to sell it on at any time. I will not be selling mine so I'm not bothered about resale value and am setting it up for my needs.
Granted, it will be a bit tight but I think it will be fine. Will let you know my findings if you are still interested.
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09 October 2016, 20:27
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 Efi
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 58
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Hi Steve, yes I'd be very interested to see how that turns out - I've looked at a variety of countersunk stainless set screws from ebay, plastic encased threaded fittings, like knobs for under the seat, and figures it would be much cheaper than the Zodiac screw set. It would be pretty simple to re enforce the PVC on the tube so the screws don't chafe as seems to happen. I figures the eva foam found on excercise floor mats and kneeling pads would be fine for the top of the plywood seat, so all in all not too difficult to do.
One I've been out a couple of times I can decide if a seat further back would be more useful than the current position. I hadn't spotted the slight taper on the seat till I looked more closely so as you say, better to make a one specific to the position. I only really intended to use one or the other.
Looking at your avatar pic, you have a similar mod to the one mine has, with oar pivots on top of the tube - do yours stow inside the grab strip/handles or outside?
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09 October 2016, 20:56
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: RC 4.8 & Aero380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 278
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Hi Sailpower
I cut a section out of my grab rail and fitted Avon type rowlocks. I have some fairly substantial wooden oars that I use that stow on the outside of the grab rail with re-usable cable ties.
Do you use or plan to use the oars regularly? If not and for emergencies only then you could use them with a bit of strap or rope tied to the grab rail to keep them in place.
I'm going to do the same as you suggest and find some countersunk stainless bolts instead of the very expensive bombard ones.
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12 October 2016, 22:31
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wigan
Boat name: ?
Make: Bombard 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2S18hp 2S15hp 2s9.8
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 189
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When I purchased our aerotec second hand about 4 years ago it came with out a seat,,,, not a problem. Some ply 1 inch thick or 2 x1/2 inch glued together,,, bolts are about 35/40mm m10s or 12s counter sunk with a 5 or 6mm allen key fixing, washer and nylock nut on the under side. All in stainless for about £3.00. With using the nut I have to use a spanner which takes a little longer,,,,, but it does not catch or rub the tubes.
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13 October 2016, 06:08
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: RC 4.8 & Aero380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 278
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Spot on Big Al C, I'm looking at similar for my fixings.
As I'm fitting a second seat and want to copy the original I've had to buy pvc and glue and eyelets which has put the price up and I'm having trouble trying to source some decent foam for the seat. I bought a black camping mat to cut up which said heavy duty from the description but when it arrived it's too soft and won't last 5 mins. I'm now looking at mechanic mats to cut up but they are not cheap.
Can anyone recommend some decent black foam between 10-20mm to finish off the seat? Cheers.
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21 October 2016, 19:26
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: RC 4.8 & Aero380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 278
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Ok so, i bought pvc, glue and eyelets to make the seat flanges as wanted to copy the original.
Then bought some oak board, black spray paint, countersunk ss bolts and some 10mm exercise mat for the padding to make the seat.
Ive not used it in anger yet but it appears to be holding up fine.
Also bought some tfr for the dirty tubes :-)
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25 October 2016, 09:23
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#16
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,930
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That's a really neat job... well done.
And... err... yes... the tubes do need a clean!
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25 October 2016, 13:57
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevem
Spot on Big Al C, I'm looking at similar for my fixings.
As I'm fitting a second seat and want to copy the original I've had to buy pvc and glue and eyelets which has put the price up and I'm having trouble trying to source some decent foam for the seat. I bought a black camping mat to cut up which said heavy duty from the description but when it arrived it's too soft and won't last 5 mins. I'm now looking at mechanic mats to cut up but they are not cheap.
Can anyone recommend some decent black foam between 10-20mm to finish off the seat? Cheers.
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halfords sell interlocking floor mats 10 mm thick which would do, solid no holes about a tenner for 6 mats & edges or if you want holes seaflow do them iv'e done my floor in them 24sq ft £16.85 you could do the floor and use the off cuts for the seat reason for the holes for me is to trap dirt so i can hoover clean save getting under the deck and rubing
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25 October 2016, 14:20
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: RC 4.8 & Aero380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
That's a really neat job... well done.
And... err... yes... the tubes do need a clean!
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I know, I know. I've had the TFR for a while now but been a bit wary of using it. Going to dilute 50:50 then use loads of water afterwards I think.
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25 October 2016, 14:24
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Tyne and Wear
Make: RC 4.8 & Aero380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 50 & 20
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
halfords sell interlocking floor mats 10 mm thick which would do, solid no holes about a tenner for 6 mats & edges or if you want holes seaflow do them iv'e done my floor in them 24sq ft £16.85 you could do the floor and use the off cuts for the seat reason for the holes for me is to trap dirt so i can hoover clean save getting under the deck and rubing
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Cheers Jeff, I did look at those but didn't think they were long enough without a join. Bought an excercise mat from Decathlon for about £10 and it did both seats to the edge so they match.
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