Aerotec transom splash issue.

[Max...]

I too cannot be @rsed to read back over the whole lot but the splash guard is a pretty easy way of stopping it - not sure if it is in this topic or linked or one of other many ones on the same issue?!

[Fenlander]

>>> I too cannot be @rsed to read back over the whole lot

What and miss your own 9 contributions to the thread???

[Max...]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

>>> I too cannot be @rsed to read back over the whole lot

What and miss your own 9 contributions to the thread???

Ha! Too true David....

[Locozodiac]

Understand plainly what's going on. I've seen it before in large inflatable boats that have large inflatable keels protruding towards the transom which produces strange middle hull wakes. If such nice Bombards are experiencing back water splash issues, why does boaters keeps buying them, is it ease of inflation ?

Happy Boating

[Gazzago]

https://youtu.be/y7MJL3ixfDc

Short video clip of Big Al C’s Aerotec.

[Gazzago]

I will also be the first to say that it is a massive improvement! I spent some time following Al’s boat last year around Scotland and this is so much smoother and calmer.

[Big Al C]

Originally Posted by Gazzago

https://youtu.be/y7MJL3ixfDc

Short video clip of Big Al C’s Aerotec.

better quality picture on your phone than the laptop

[Gazzago]

It’s just WhatsApp compress it and it looses quality.

[Big Al C]

Originally Posted by Gazzago

It’s just WhatsApp compress it and it looses quality.

I meant to say if you watch the link on your phone, because it's on a smaller screen and not a laptop you see the full effect.[emoji106]

[Fenlander]

From that video in post #105 the improvement over the usual Aerotec wake is fantastic.


>>>If such nice Bombards are experiencing back water splash issues, why does boaters keeps buying them...

You'll have to sit down with a drink and trawl through hundreds of posts having used forum search for "Aerotec".

[hymerbeliever]

Good job. I wonder if the same effect could be achieved by adding a second transom or just the lower part to extend the lower transom edge 25mm or so level with the floor under the HP floor. You could even use 2 metal plates in a V.

[Kong]

Originally Posted by Big Al C

http://www.rib.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1558301283

Will only be able to test out in a couple of weeks time,,,, have a day out on Windermere and report back with some pictures.

Wow! This is a massive game changer, having seen the video I can hardly believe how much better that is.

Was the video taken with riser blocks still in place?

Could you please share a basic rundown of your materials and method? Particularly what type of filler and glue you used.

Thanks again to you and everyone involved in this brilliant project

[Fenlander]

Kong while you're about how did you get on with the splash when you had a Yamaha 15 on your Aerotec?

[Kong]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Kong while you're about how did you get on with the splash when you had a Yamaha 15 on your Aerotec?

Of the 3 engines I’ve run on the Aerotec - Mariner twostroke 15hp, Yamaha twostroke 15hp and Honda fourstroke 20hp I’d say the Yamaha is by far the best with regards to splash, I ran it without blocks without much of an issue. The Honda flooded the boat in Poole harbour even with 25mm block, it’s was horrendous!

[Fenlander]

What about the Yamaha in other respects say compared to the Mariner? Easy of carry, starting, noise etc.

[Kong]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

What about the Yamaha in other respects say compared to the Mariner? Easy of carry, starting, noise etc.

Off topic!

I preferred the Yamaha in all respects. Easier to carry because the handle is on the main body of the outboard instead of the pivoting transom mount (bye knuckles), the kill cord is better attached so it doesn’t accidentally pull out. I prefer the separate gear level so you can rev it in neutral, finally my previous one was bought new in 1998 and still ran like new when I sold in in 2013 (wish I’d kept it).

Only reason I have a Mariner now is last year I was very lucky to get my hands on a brand new in box 2006 (pre emissions) model which was too good to pass up.

All things being even I’d have the Yammy

[Big Al C]

Originally Posted by Kong

Wow! This is a massive game changer, having seen the video I can hardly believe how much better that is.

Was the video taken with riser blocks still in place?

Could you please share a basic rundown of your materials and method? Particularly what type of filler and glue you used.

Thanks again to you and everyone involved in this brilliant project

Yes the riser block was still in place,,,, this is more than I've used before a 15hp as it was set up for the 25/30 tohatsu. It was a last minute thing to take the 15hp, hadn't used this one before and knew it would be high. Have already got the original ply back plate and alloy thumb screw plate out to refit and start with zero. I recon 15mm should be about all I need as the flow of water was well short of the top deflector plate/fin when using the tohatsu block 35/40mm.

Materials consisted of 1.5m x 250mm pvc,,,, about 600mm left.
Could not risk just getting 250ml 2 part glue so got 1lt.
That cost about £50 so far
The infill came off a job some years ago (off cut), very dense foam used as the base on a flat roof before the top water proof layer,,,, been using it for a kneeling pad all this time. Glued it on with the same pvc 2 part glue.

Cut the foam to a 45deg fillet and shaped it basically till it looked right.
Then using card to template the pvc,,,, same piece for each side (mirrored),
glued the foam first, then the pvc to just the transom, could not fold on to the floor in one go so had to put a cut in it, glue that in two goes and then glued a patch on top of that. At the end of the day,,,, it wasn't a hole I was trying patch,,,, its not under any pressure.

[Locozodiac]

Fenlander, as you're the original initiator of the thread, would like to ask if the Aerotec whichever size it was used was correctly inflated to its factory recommended working pressure, assume 12 to 14 PSI, that's with a pressure gauge ?

Seeing some pics find that the lower fabric onto which both inflatables floors form the deep V hull are not 100% flat out ones, the fabric looks as if not well stretched out, this can address for hardened water flowing out transom to exit non flat and that will be an issue with prop when powering the boat.

This issue is completely independent from back, side or over transom water splashes. Those isues are related to badly matched motor/transom heights. For instance, if you test 3 different motor brands say Yam, Tohatsu, Suzuki all 3 being short shaft ones, each one will perform much different as all 3 will have sligh larger or slight shorter lower tail heights differences compared between them along not all boats brands are being manufactured with exact same transom heights no matter if all are build with S transoms.

That's why each motor brand must be correctly transom height matched in order to achieve the best prop thrust in all water cond and a flat wake out motor. If in need to chop down or shim motor up for that to happen, it's a different chapter...

Can someone post an up side down clear picture shot from transom side of an Aerotec showing the inflated hull to it's max working pressure to have a look.

Happy Boating

[Fenlander]

In post #85 Big Al has rather proved the issue... regardless of correct inflation the water flow off the floor rising under the transom creates this problem.

I don't have an image of my Aerotec upside down but there are several if you Google.

It doesn't matter how hard you inflate an Aerotec floor due... to its shape (not the same as the outer hull fabric) and the way it attaches to the boat it is incapable of fully stretching the outer fabric.

[Max...]

Yes, as above - my outer floor is always tight as a drum - it's just the way the V hull at the back (unusual) directs water against the leg and some legs are worse than others for reacting to it due to the shape.