Anchor hub

[philpot]

At Kerny's suggestion I will post my design for an anchor hub which I poated on another forum that Kerny and I are members. It may be of some interest to some of you.


I have been fishing from my SIB on fresh water but as a friend of mine has just bought a SIB for both fresh and salt water and the fact that both whiting and cod are being caught in the Humber, I thought I had better get an anchor system sorted.

I wanted to have a hub which is easily fitted to the boat but not a permanent fixture. I needed a anchor warp guide to protect the tubes and a cleat of some kind to fix the warp. A plan hatched today which I thought I would share with you.

I found a piece of plastic in the garage which was the right size so applying a heat gun to the plastic, I was able to bend it to the shape of the tube.






Next, how to fasten the plastic in position. I drilled a hole on the inside edge, ran a braided rope to a carabina at each end in order to clip to two fittings.



The front edge now needed sorting. Two 'D' fittings were fastened to the hub with a couple of bungy chords/hooks on to the lifting handle of the boat. So now we have a pretty rigid hub plate in place.



Okay that is the hub in place so now a stainless steel bridge as a warp guide coupled with a spare cam lock cleat to hold the warp once anchored.


Fitting the hub takes only a few moments and is very compact to store when not in use.



I will have to sort the FF next which also has to be removable.

Phil

[camelgas]

Good Idea , I would tie a stopper (fig 8) knot in the end of the wrap just in case, as it would stop at the bridge.

[philpot]

You are quite right Camelgas and in fact it now has a large loop which is easier to grab hold of if needed.

Phil

[Poly]

How are you finishing the back of all those fittings underneath the plastic plate? Any worries about them chaffing the tube?

[philpot]

All the bolt heads are countersunk so there is nothing sticking out and I have not put any on but I do have some sponge tape if needed.

Phil

[apshutt]

Excellent. You should go into full production ;-)

[kerny]

Originally Posted by apshutt

Excellent. You should go into full production ;-)

Seconded

[Mikefule]

Very smart but a lot of trouble to go to. I have always taken a bight in the anchor line and attached it to the painter with a sheetbend. The tension is then transmitted directly through the painter to the rings on the hull designed for the purpose by the manufacturer. The free end of the anchor line then comes aboard but not under tension, so it doesn't chafe on the hull.

[Peter_C]

Doesn't the boat have two d-rings on the outside of the boat right about where the two on the inside are? I made a harness attached to those d-rings that I use a locking carabiner to attach to a bite in the anchor line. That way I have two strong failure points, so I know my boat will be there after I return from swimming around with the fishes.

Feeding the line thru the stainless front piece isn't bothersome when anchoring in shallower water? I guess a loop could be feed thru into the cleat. Another note is the type of line you are using is probably lower stretch than the more typical 3 strand of line that has lots of stretch to help keep the anchor in place.

Otherwise I always like home done projects

[Ovey]

Originally Posted by Poly

How are you finishing the back of all those fittings underneath the plastic plate? Any worries about them chaffing the tube?

If there were any worries about this, I'm sure a bit of thin rubber could be stuck to the reverse (or even an old PC mouse-mat depending on the size).

[bartiny]

Originally Posted by Mikefule

Very smart but a lot of trouble to go to. I have always taken a bight in the anchor line and attached it to the painter with a sheetbend. The tension is then transmitted directly through the painter to the rings on the hull designed for the purpose by the manufacturer. The free end of the anchor line then comes aboard but not under tension, so it doesn't chafe on the hull.

As above

[philpot]

I should have said that the 10mm floating rope that you see in the photo is run out to a buoy which has the main 3mm anchor warp via an anchor reel attached. This is the method we use when kayak fishing at sea and because the yellow rope is floating, there is no downward pressure on the boat bow so little or no slap. I fish mainly in the Humber area where there is a strong current but not a heavy chop and this method works well for me but I cannot really say how effective it might be in a heavy chop or really big swell.

You might say the anchor warp at 3mm is too thin, but I have found over the years that I have used this method, it allows me to use much lighter anchors. As a matter of interest I use a 0.75 kilo anchor on my kayak and hold ground very well, I also have a 1.5 kilo anchor which has never been used but I dare say will be used on the sib as there will be greater drag. When you fish from a kayak at sea, you have to use lighter gear otherwise you can get in a mess on such a small platform so we all tend to use light anchor warps and my other anchor is an aluminium divers reel loaded with 1.5mm line which also works very well in most conditions.

You are right Peter about the outer 'D' rings, the boat does have them but I wanted to create a more directional pull so I opted for the internal 'D' rings.

Phil