Baffle repair

[Ztipton]

Looking for some information on how to repair called on PVC boats, specifically a whitewater raft but any information involving RIBs or SIBs that's relevant would be greatly appreciated!

[Peter_C]

Welcome to Rib.net

First you are going to need pictures from inside. That would take a special camera. Otherwise use a mirror or the like to get an idea what you are up against. Choose the best location and cut a big hole in the side of the boat. Repair the baffle, then put a patch inside and outside the boat hull.

Is the boat thermo-welded? We have no idea what you are working with.

NRS might even have a video showing repairs. Try searching Youtube for "baffle repair".

[User name]

I've done this before. I removed the row locks on a SIB to make an incision underneath so that the finished repair would be invisible and then patched it and refitted the row locks.

I'm not sure if you have any accessories on it that would allow you to do the same, or if you care about being able to see the repair, but the process of fixing the baffle is pretty much the same as doing any other PVC repair on a RIB/SIB. You'll find loads of info here. https://www.ribstoredirect.com/pages/advice-information

I was able to cut a hole just big enough to fit my arm up to my elbow and I removed the inflation valve too so that I could see in while I was working. It was a bit awkward but doable. I also used an automotive inspection cam, though it wasn't essential. If it's a punctured baffle then you'll just patch it like any other repair, but if it's failing glue then you'll need to remove it and reglue all the way around. Use masking tape to mark out where the baffle should sit before you start pulling at any remaining stuck areas and you can draw on some registration marks with a marker too if that helps.

[paintman]

As far as the camera is concerned there are any number of inexpensive endoscope inspection camera attachments for use with mobile phones.
Amazon & ebay are places to look.

[Ztipton]

Thanks y'all that's very helpful! I'm working on repairing a NRS cataraft tube which is PVC and thermawelded seams but I believe the baffle may be glued on. If the glue is falling can I get by with not removing and reglueing three whole thing? My plan If it was glue failure to go in carefully from both sides and place a patch along the baffle-to-tube part that's failed and seal up the entry holes with an internal and external patch

[User name]

Originally Posted by Ztipton

Thanks y'all that's very helpful! I'm working on repairing a NRS cataraft tube which is PVC and thermawelded seams but I believe the baffle may be glued on. If the glue is falling can I get by with not removing and reglueing three whole thing? My plan If it was glue failure to go in carefully from both sides and place a patch along the baffle-to-tube part that's failed and seal up the entry holes with an internal and external patch

If it was caused by over-pressure on one side then it could be that it's just failed at the weakest point and the glue itself is still fine. In that case it could be ok to just glue back a section, but I'd test to see how strongly the remaining part of the baffle is holding on before deciding on that.

Realistically, pulling back and re-glueing the whole baffle is probably less work than glueing in an overlapping seam on either side.

[Peter_C]

NRS should be able to help, ONCE you can elaborate to them what the failure is. Remove the valve(s) and get a look inside (Depending on valve type it may require a special tool). You may need a video scope so you can see in, but depending on the distance from the valve to the baffle you might be able to manipulate the fabric around to get a good visual, using a bright flashlight that could be dropped inside. The inner part of the valve will drop inside, and can be moved around and reinstalled with some effort.