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14 September 2014, 10:48
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: North Lincs
Boat name: na
Make: F-Rib 330/Excel 330
Length: 3m +
Engine: Parsun 15hp
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 233
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Hi guys, sorry been away for the week so therefore a late response. The wheels came from ebay, here is the item
FOLDING INFLATABLE TENDER LAUNCHING DINGHY WHEELS WITH BOLTS S/S NEW | eBay
Hope that helps
Phil
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15 September 2014, 00:09
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#22
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: St Neots ( Cambs)
Boat name: Red Oktober
Make: Avon SR4
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 116
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Hi thanks for coming back I have ordered some from
Pacer marine I think they may be the same ones thanks
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01 December 2014, 18:20
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: ludlow
Make: excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 135
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Just received my wheels ,no instructions,how do you fit them ?
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01 December 2014, 19:00
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: North Lincs
Boat name: na
Make: F-Rib 330/Excel 330
Length: 3m +
Engine: Parsun 15hp
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 233
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Have a look at the first page of this thread which shows my sib with the wheels on which may help.
Phil
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01 December 2014, 20:40
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: ludlow
Make: excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 135
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Thanks Phil,looks easy enough.
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01 December 2014, 22:30
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sticks, N.Yorks
Boat name: Tamanco
Make: Honwave 3.5AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu Outboard
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,176
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I don't know if it's something everyone does but after I drilled all the holes I applied a good quality silicone before final assembly.
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01 December 2014, 23:07
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 874
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Silicone is alright but Sikaflex is bombproof!
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01 December 2014, 23:09
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: North Lincs
Boat name: na
Make: F-Rib 330/Excel 330
Length: 3m +
Engine: Parsun 15hp
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 233
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Sikaflex 291 i marine, the best product I have used.
Phil
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02 December 2014, 10:23
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Oop North
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 327
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Just use silicone because you may want to remove the wheels at some point. I had to put in spacers (wooden blocks) to stop the wheels rubbing, because of wear to hinge points.
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02 December 2014, 21:32
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#30
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Povoa S Iria Lisbon Port
Boat name: Açores
Make: Ocean Bay
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki 15 hp
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 69
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hello,
watch the video of my inflatable,,, it's the second pair of this kind of wheel set that I have, and that type of wear never see.... you must have put something wrong.... :P
http://www.rib.net/forum/f64/hello-p...ria-65294.html
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03 December 2014, 00:30
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Oop North
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 327
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Quote:
you must have put something wrong.... :P
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Why must I have done something wrong?
Simple fact is that they are supposed to be rated at 200 kg, but only for short distances. If you drag half that weight any distance regularly ( Bombard 380, 15hp Mercury 2 stroke and fishing gear about 400m each way) the metal buckles because it's to thin.
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03 December 2014, 07:13
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#32
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sticks, N.Yorks
Boat name: Tamanco
Make: Honwave 3.5AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu Outboard
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,176
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Have to agree with Stray on this one. There's a fair bit of strain on launch wheels when you're dragging it over shingle/stones/sand for any distance!
If you look back through this thread I have the Honwave ones fitted on my 3.5 that have a bracket and stud fitted as standard near the bottom of the transom to take some of the flexing out of the leg.
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03 December 2014, 07:24
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#33
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Povoa S Iria Lisbon Port
Boat name: Açores
Make: Ocean Bay
Length: 3m +
Engine: Suzuki 15 hp
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 69
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well, you have seen the plastimo on the last sec of the film,,, in august this year he travel for 15 days every single day 1200mt,,, 600 in the morning and the rest in the end of the day,,, with motor, gas tank, gear, and some other heavy things,,, and the only problem were the tires,,, and that because I left the set a little open, they were not aligned,,,,,, looking the picture that you put on,,, seems to me, that something twisted the arm,,, or they are not proper aligned,, and one side is more heavier than the other,,,, but with a hammer it's ok,,,
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03 December 2014, 20:57
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#34
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: ludlow
Make: excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 135
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Do I put the silicone or sikaflex on the bolt and in the holes to stop the transom rotting?and is it worth applying some to the back of the fixing plate where it fits against the transom to stop water getting in.
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03 December 2014, 21:30
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 95
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Hi Chris. Whenever I have fitted anything to the wood transom on my SIB which involves drilling and bolting, I have firstly painted the inside of the drill holes, just to help reduce water penetration and then put a ring of marine silicon on the top of the bolt shaft, push the bolt through and then a ring around the bottom (thread end) place a washer on, then thread nut and tighten. Creates a water tight seal both ends. Ps never had an issue removing bolts when needed to. I am sure there are many other methods but works for me.
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03 December 2014, 22:10
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#36
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: ludlow
Make: excel
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 135
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Thanks Chris ,some good advice there,last thing I want is a rotten transom,l am lucky to have the bolts with the launch wheels ,just hope they stand up to the salty water.
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03 December 2014, 22:38
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#37
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 95
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No probs - the bolts with the launching wheels should be marine grade stainless so shouldn't rust away easily. Always good to give everything a good wash down after use as well.
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