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Old 07 October 2013, 11:41   #1
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Bombard aerotec 380 new owner

As per the title I'm a new owner of a bombard 380 after reading all of the positive threads about this boat I happen to find one for sale locally with engine and trailer etc etc.

So went ahead and bought it but now I'm questioning my decision as I have taken it out 4 times now and I'm having problems with the engine splash from mid throttle to full throttle.

At first I had the engine sitting on the transom and then lifted it up as far as the clamps and plate would allow.
But still the water spray is filling my engine cowling with salt water by splashing that badly underneath the engine.
I have tried various trim positions from all the way in to all the way out but to no avail.
And with the engine trimmed all the way in it also sprays water in through the bilge drains.

So looking at some peoples attempts on here to raise the engine I made my own bodged together rig which I managed to get my cav plate level with my keel and then took the boat out for a test run.

This seemed to work fairly well at 1/4 throttle as the cav plate was working well and I had a nice clean water flow out the back of the boat.
As I increased the power though it seemed to create alot of splash from the way the water passed out from the hull and started to look very messy.

Here is a quick gopro video (excuse the g clamps holding my makeshift Transom)

Bombard 380 Engine Lift Trim Level 3 - YouTube

So is this the best I can expect to get the flow out the back of the boat or have other people managed to find the perfect setup.
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Old 07 October 2013, 11:56   #2
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What type of pump are you using? Is the floor definitely at the right pressure?
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Old 07 October 2013, 12:05   #3
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I currently have the geared floor pump that comes with the boat and I reckon the floor was pretty much there at pressure required as far as I could tell with the crappy gauge that comes with it.

But even with the floor pumped up and all the straps tight the boat still has a saggy bottom where the floor does not sit low enough to fill it completely I was thinking about shaping some close cell foam to fill the gap and smooth out the back of the hull.

Some pics of the saggy bum



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Old 07 October 2013, 13:15   #4
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That doesn't look right to me. Have you got any photos from the inside?
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Old 07 October 2013, 13:22   #5
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I agree with John, that doesn't look right at all.

Either the deck is sitting too high high inside the boat, or the floor has been stretched somehow.

I think I have some images of our one upside down which shows how tight the floor is, will have a look later.

Nasher.
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Old 07 October 2013, 13:29   #6
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I reckon it could have stretched slightly as it's been sat on a roller trailer instead of a bunker trailer so the rollers sit right by the stern and are in the position where the saggy bit is so I reckon it may have stretched the bottom looks I may have to try some foam in it to give it a Botox lift
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Old 07 October 2013, 15:33   #7
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would be good to see some piccies from the inside.

A decent gauge is handy, really do need to get it to the correct pressure of 11.2psi. At this point the floor should feel rock solid.

<edit> are the tubes at the correct pressure too? Looking at your picture the tube is deforming when on that trailer you have it on. That can make a huge difference.

People more expert than me will confirm, but the tubes need to be a 3.2 psi I think, which is way more than a RIB would be running at.

The other thing is to check the pressures when you hit the water, the floor/keel hitting water at sub 20 degrees is going to really take the edge off the pressure and it might well need topping up.

Look forward to the inside piccies
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Old 07 October 2013, 16:26   #8
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In the pics it's sat on some wood tables so I could get some underside pics and I believe at the time it only had just some air in it to keep shape not usual running pressure but I'm just taking floor out now so I'll get some pics.
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Old 07 October 2013, 16:38   #9
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I'd put a wager on the floor or tubes not being up to pressure. The pumps that come as standard are ( I found) really pretty useless.

You think the floor is at pressure when actually its at half the needed pressure !

Does the floor 'move' or 'wobble' in use so far ?
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Old 07 October 2013, 17:17   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solent Bombard View Post
In the pics it's sat on some wood tables so I could get some underside pics and I believe at the time it only had just some air in it to keep shape not usual running pressure but I'm just taking floor out now so I'll get some pics.
It would probably be more use if you could post some photos of it fully inflated. Easier to see if anything is obviously wrong that way!
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Old 07 October 2013, 17:22   #11
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Yep you probably right never bothered to recheck the floor pressure once I was in the water mainly as I'm quite lazy so probs never got the true pressure for the floor while going along.

Here are the pics of the inside of the boat.




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Old 07 October 2013, 17:25   #12
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Looking at a digital pump at the moment for the boat for blowing it up as foot pump is a annoying sweaty experience. But canno afford one of those at the moment so wondering if anyone has been able to use a hand pump like the ones for kitesurfing to get the pressure to the right level.

Also has anyone else with the right pressures managed to get a nice clean stream of water coming out the back of there boat.
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Old 07 October 2013, 17:56   #13
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we definitely need to see pictures of the floor in the boat inflated
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Old 07 October 2013, 17:58   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solent Bombard View Post
Also has anyone else with the right pressures managed to get a nice clean stream of water coming out the back of there boat.
Yep...and with a 25(merc not yam though). The v of the hull/floor design at the stern while giving good tracking through the water does allow water to come back 'together' sooner than it would if it was a flat hull...which is what causes the spray issues. Usually an inch lift of the engine mount and proper pressure sorts it.

High pressure electric pumps aren't cheap, but they will transform the days boating....
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Old 11 October 2013, 09:31   #15
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Well going to have to be a while before I can fully inflated pictures as the boat has ripped a floor strap out.
So going to have to get that repaired first.

Will see if I can get the other straps reinforced as well to try and prevent it happening again.

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Old 17 October 2013, 10:29   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solent Bombard View Post
Well going to have to be a while before I can fully inflated pictures as the boat has ripped a floor strap out.
So going to have to get that repaired first.

Will see if I can get the other straps reinforced as well to try and prevent it happening again.
You can get replacement straps and toggles from Inflatable Boat Supplies in Essex (IBS Boat Supplies). They're not particularly expensive but only come in packs of 4 and shipping from Bombard in France is a bit pricey (around £20). Some 2-part adhesive and a tin of MEK isn't much (and should probably be in your toolkit anyhow, along with some spare patching material) and the job is easy, if a bit smelly and sticky.

Quite a few of the straps and buckles on my 420 were either going or bad replacements (half the buckles were on back-to-front so the strap wouldn't lock and some of the straps were too narrow). I've attached the parts drawing - it's for the 420 but buckles and straps will be the same I think.

Cheers,

Andrew.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf z5054-aerotec-420-rouge-2000-4591.pdf (144.9 KB, 172 views)
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Old 21 October 2013, 23:09   #17
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You could make your own, I did, out of a large repair patch. Made a card template folded in half so the buckle can go in the middle, make sure the buckle is in the right way round as in last post or they will not work. Used the two part glue,,,,, not that hard.

Big A C
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