Bombard Aerotec Re-Glue (Transom & Floor)

[office888]

That's damn near pro-level quality, my friend.

Excellent work.

Make absolutely sure you've removed all old-adhesive residue, and you've prep wiped a minimum of 3 times with MEK before applying fresh adhesive.

PVC leeches plasticizers over time, which cause an oily film to form on the surface of the material. It is one of the key mechanisms that shortens the lifespan of the adhesive, so it is vital to remove any loose plasticizers before applying fresh adhesive.

[bomberman]

Thanks both and once again thanks Office888 for the reminder about using MEK, in my preparation I wiped over each surface with MEK, but only once.

[office888]

Originally Posted by bomberman

Thanks both and once again thanks Office888 for the reminder about using MEK, in my preparation I wiped over each surface with MEK, but only once.

Might be OK, might not. Time will tell.

[simonafloat]

Great project, thanks for sharing! My aerotec will require this at some stage. I do however lack a workspace where the humidity levels can be controlled, so mine will probably receive a commercial reglue when the time comes.

[bomberman]

Hi simonafloat, to be honest I don't have any control over humidity I was just checking the weather websites to find a day or part of a day when the levels looked right then on the day only worked when the meter displayed less than 60%....There was a lot of vapour so masks were a must.

[maccardiolog]

Hello bomberman !
Now you have to accept our greetings and support our additional questions ... Thanks also to ofice888 for his professional help. I prepare for the same restoration of my 2001 Zodiac Futura S (with speed tubes), but only partially, because some portions from the floor are impossible to detach from the pontoons, so I will keep them glued as they are.
The transom is also firmly attached to the pontoons, only the bottom portion is partially detached from the floor. The cause seems to be infiltration of water besides the self bailer base through drain hole ...
After a long-term documentation, I drew the following conclusions that I want confirmed:
1.wood primer = single part Hypalon Adhesive
2.rubber - wood = 2 part Hypalon Adhesive
3.pvc - wood = 2 part PVC Adhesive
4.do not sandpaper PVC
5.MEK will prepare the surface of the PVC
I do not know :
A.how to work with the glue, on smaller portions or on all length and with reactivation on dry portions too much? How to reactivate?

B. How would be the transition from the old, well-glued portions to the loosened ones over which the glue is applied so that the passage is without anydefect soldering in continuation ? (practically )
C. What should I put between the drain hole and the self bailer base for water not to penetrate?

[office888]

Originally Posted by maccardiolog

Hello bomberman !
Now you have to accept our greetings and support our additional questions ... Thanks also to ofice888 for his professional help. I prepare for the same restoration of my 2001 Zodiac Futura S (with speed tubes), but only partially, because some portions from the floor are impossible to detach from the pontoons, so I will keep them glued as they are.
The transom is also firmly attached to the pontoons, only the bottom portion is partially detached from the floor. The cause seems to be infiltration of water besides the self bailer base through drain hole ...
After a long-term documentation, I drew the following conclusions that I want confirmed:
1.wood primer = single part Hypalon Adhesive
2.rubber - wood = 2 part Hypalon Adhesive
3.pvc - wood = 2 part PVC Adhesive
4.do not sandpaper PVC
5.MEK will prepare the surface of the PVC
I do not know :
A.how to work with the glue, on smaller portions or on all length and with reactivation on dry portions too much? How to reactivate?

B. How would be the transition from the old, well-glued portions to the loosened ones over which the glue is applied so that the passage is without anydefect soldering in continuation ? (practically )
C. What should I put between the drain hole and the self bailer base for water not to penetrate?

All Zodiac/Bombard transom layup pieces (trapezoidal extrusions and anti-wear wedges) are of thermoform plastic construction. Polyurethane adhesive (PVC type, 2 part) adhesive is the correct application.

Polychloroprene (CSM/CR, "Hypalon" type 2-part adhesive) is not required unless you wish to prime the wood with it.

I prefer : Polyurethane 2 part adhesive, thinned 50% with MEK. 3 coats, ~10 min between coats after sanding with 80 grit. Allow 1 day cure, then follow regular layup.

///

A.)
Prep well, and reactivation is not required. If reactivation is required, it will be obvious...your workpieces will not stick. Simply give a quick wipe with a rag damp with MEK, then lay up immediately.

B.)
Heatgun to remove all glued pieces with the layup. It is vital that all old adhesive be chemically removed with either methylene chloride or MEK + scrubbing before prep and layup. If this is not followed, the new workpieces will debond quite quickly.

C.)
Sikaflex 221 or Sikaflex 291

[bomberman]

Hi, Good luck with your transom repair, I think office888 has answered all asked and a lot better than I could have. I think the main things are to ensure you know what goes where, so mark it before removal, ensure everything is cleaned of old glue and for the transom that isn't as easy as with the pvc pieces. Get the boat at a height that makes it comfortable to work at. Ensure to have something to help align the floor onto the back of the transom (I had dowls in the baler voids and also the holes from where the zodiac wheels attach). Take your time when gluing it back together, I would definitely have a helper if you can as the transom was fiddly.

[maccardiolog]

Thank you both ! Office888 , I did not understand what you meant by '' Polyurethane 2 part adhesive, thinned 50% with MEK. 3 coats, ~10 min between coats after sanding with 80 grit. Allow 1 day cure '' - is this the treatment for priming the wood ?Will I bond with 2 parts PVC adhesive as usually after 1 day of cure ?
Should the transom inferior part (the width that comes into contact with the floor) be glued to the floor too ?

[bomberman]

Hi Maccardiolog, I believe it was office888 instruction for preparing the wooden transom for ensuring pvc will adhere to it. I would guess that thinning it with MEK will increase the penetration into the wood. You will see when you remove the various components of pvc, what attaches to what and if your memory isnt good....take pictures! On the Aerotec, the lower interior transom pieces were attached on the inside face of the transom and the underside of it if that makes sense. It also folded back and was glued to the floor.

[office888]

Originally Posted by maccardiolog

Thank you both ! Office888 , I did not understand what you meant by '' Polyurethane 2 part adhesive, thinned 50% with MEK. 3 coats, ~10 min between coats after sanding with 80 grit. Allow 1 day cure '' - is this the treatment for priming the wood ?Will I bond with 2 parts PVC adhesive as usually after 1 day of cure ?
Should the transom inferior part (the width that comes into contact with the floor) be glued to the floor too ?

The bottom edge of the transom? Yes.

You will want to glue the transom in first with a ratchet strap around the tubes.

The bottom of the transom, you must deflate the boat to stretch the floor in place. It is a good idea to remove the inside floor doubler.

I also recommend ungluing the thick anti-wear piece that is between the two bailers. It hides a slit in the material and it is a lot easier to reinstall the floor with the slit open.

[maccardiolog]

The pieces around the transom fall one by one ... Now is winter and there are no conditions for repair, so I want to be prepared theoretically for the next spring. This thread seems to me the most detailed, so here I post my problems . The biggest problems are in the transom area - I think from the water infiltration through the drain holes and the bow area - about a quarter from the front of the floor is detached ; the rest can not be detached by the normal pulling force of a man .
I will decide later if I totally detach it or not.The main fear is to fail a pass without any interruption between the original portion and the one that will reglue , not even a millimeter.
I would have a few questions:
1. As seen in the photo, on the inside of the boat , there is a black band (for reinforcement made?) that is glued to the floor and pontoons and to the lower back of the transom. The side that is glued to "red" can easily detach , but the part that is glued to the floor, which has some striations, is impossible to detach, seems hot welded. Can I leave it so original glued and prepare with MEK only the contact part of this band with pontoons and transom?
2. Once the transom between the pontoons, assuming I detach the floor completely, does the gluing begin from the bow or from the transom?

[office888]

Originally Posted by maccardiolog

The pieces around the transom fall one by one ... Now is winter and there are no conditions for repair, so I want to be prepared theoretically for the next spring. This thread seems to me the most detailed, so here I post my problems . The biggest problems are in the transom area - I think from the water infiltration through the drain holes and the bow area - about a quarter from the front of the floor is detached ; the rest can not be detached by the normal pulling force of a man .
I will decide later if I totally detach it or not.The main fear is to fail a pass without any interruption between the original portion and the one that will reglue , not even a millimeter.
I would have a few questions:
1. As seen in the photo, on the inside of the boat , there is a black band (for reinforcement made?) that is glued to the floor and pontoons and to the lower back of the transom. The side that is glued to "red" can easily detach , but the part that is glued to the floor, which has some striations, is impossible to detach, seems hot welded. Can I leave it so original glued and prepare with MEK only the contact part of this band with pontoons and transom?
2. Once the transom between the pontoons, assuming I detach the floor completely, does the gluing begin from the bow or from the transom?

In peak sunlight in the summer, the black material will reach about 75c. If you can heat it to that temperature with hot air and it unglues easily, it should be re-bonded with fresh adhesive.

The interior doubler between the transom / floor is not heat welded.

I will post some more info tomorrow.

[maccardiolog]

Hello everybody !

What do you think is the two-component PVC adhesive that has the best quality price ratio that can be bought in Europe (easier shipping cost)?

[office888]

Originally Posted by maccardiolog

Hello everybody !

What do you think is the two-component PVC adhesive that has the best quality price ratio that can be bought in Europe (easier shipping cost)?

Vinycol 1520 for PVC

Buy the 750ml can.

[maccardiolog]

At the risk of being a stupid question, I still wonder: why not use PVC to PVC heat bonding, made with special equipment, instead of gluing?
Obviously, I am referring to the repair process, not the manufacturing process, after preparing the welding surfaces as it should .

[Firstrib]

I want to bow in admiration for your patience, confidence and faith in completing this job, amazing, well done.

[bomberman]

Thanks Firstrib, to be honest I had nothing to lose giving it a go and in hindsight underestimated the difficulty of ensuring that the pieces were glued back in the correct place, especially around the transom as that was very awkward. Just hope I don't have to do it again for a while!!

[Max...]

+1 - chapeau for taking that on and reporting it so well on here so others can see.