Challenging patch

[nmzodiac]

Should I remove the d ring and "red" strip prior to applying the patch or can I just prep the area (sand off the red top paint) and apply the patch over the two layers?

Second patch question. I have a slow leak that is coming from the seam area. Can this be fixed by placing a patch over the seam or does it have to be patched from the inside?

Third questions this is a hypalon boat. What are your opinions on using Clifton hypalon adhesive with accelerator?

Thanks for the advice

[Poly]

The right way to do it is to remove the d and strip. You won't get a good seal if you go over the top. I'm a lazy git, so in such an awkward spot I'd be tempted to take an improvised fix out of the gurnards book from last year - perhaps filling the hole with wetsuit glue and then putting a small neat triangular patch in for reinforcement (unless it leaks so much you can't get an initial seal with the neoprene glue).

Simply patching over seams is rarely as good as you'd hope.

[jeffstevens763@g]

i use tear aid a very flexible patch system that can be cut to shape its self adhesive moves with the fabric & tolerant of moisture and see through which blends in with the fabric.
two types A & B one for PVC one for hypalon.

[office888]

I'd remove the valve assembly and patch it from the inside.

[The Gurnard]

Originally Posted by Poly

I'd be tempted to take an improvised fix out of the gurnards book from last year -

Hey Poly ..by coincidence ..I have just been checking over the Quicksilver ..getting it ready for the new season. The repair has done well.. although my trailer rusted through during winter.

I got a great deal on a new Indespension bunk trailer ..so all is roadworthy again

As an update to my repair in an awkward place.. where I used a mixture of sikaflex and two part PVC glue to form an internal patch.. (you can see the full details here.)

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/the-gur...pot-72527.html

Its now almost a full year since the repair.. it was used a couple of times after the repair ..and its sat outside inflated all through a Scottish winter ..and I have not added air once.

It will need a few pumps to get it to working pressure but Im still very happy with my repair method.



Its certainly worth a try before pulling other parts off or making other holes to patch a hole.

My opinion only though .. but as the old saying goes ... the proof is in the pudding .

[office888]

Originally Posted by The Gurnard

Its certainly worth a try before pulling other parts off or making other holes to patch a hole.

0.75 to 1.0 hr fix if I could do it through the valve... No visible exterior patch to peel off, no risks from pressurized substrate, no UV exposure, no masking needed. Benefits are endless!

All it takes is a can-do attitude.

I'll make a youtube video.

[The Gurnard]

Originally Posted by office888

All it takes is a can-do attitude.

I agree..and that is exatly what I did.

PVC inflatables at 3psi are nothing compared to the pressure in a bicycle tyre. I have repaired them successfully all my days..and wouldn't dream of cutting another hole to repair it. I don't know any bicycle shop who would ?

However I realise its not the professional way ..and I can see your reasoning for it..

As another thought to the slow leak on the seam.. I also repaired a slow leak on the seam of my hypalon Avon Redstart. It wasn't a leak as such..it lost pressure over a week.. but I found it by watching for bubbles. Anyhoo..10 sconds repaired that small seam leak..I used super glue. Again its not a professional repair..but it worked for me. It would depend on the size of the leak for that to work though. I did that repair 5 years ago..and its still fine to this day.

[nmzodiac]

Originally Posted by The Gurnard

Hey Poly ..by coincidence ..I have just been checking over the Quicksilver ..getting it ready for the new season. The repair has done well.. although my trailer rusted through during winter.

I got a great deal on a new Indespension bunk trailer ..so all is roadworthy again

As an update to my repair in an awkward place.. where I used a mixture of sikaflex and two part PVC glue to form an internal patch.. (you can see the full details here.)

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/the-gur...pot-72527.html

Its now almost a full year since the repair.. it was used a couple of times after the repair ..and its sat outside inflated all through a Scottish winter ..and I have not added air once.

It will need a few pumps to get it to working pressure but Im still very happy with my repair method.



Its certainly worth a try before pulling other parts off or making other holes to patch a hole.

My opinion only though .. but as the old saying goes ... the proof is in the pudding .

Thanks for the ideas. I will try the "not so professional" approach.
The two products I will be experimenting with are.
1. 3M 8008 for the patch next to the D ring. will use it to fill and patch over the top with hypalon and Clifton glue.
2. Aquaseal and toluene for the slow leak on the seam.

Your post got me thinking I should experiment ant see what works.

Thanks

[willk]

Originally Posted by Poly

(unless it leaks so much you can't get an initial seal with the neoprene glue).

This technique works best with a "neutral" pressure in the tubes during application. Once the glue is in place, pumping air OUT of the tube and maintaining that "negative" pressure will help draw the adhesive INTO the leak. The hope is that some adhesive will mushroom out inside the leak and set there. Obviously one needs to guard against gluing the inside of one's tubes together.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Aqua sure is a good product too used on dry suit seems & holes

[Brage]

I'm curious about this with aquaseal on seams. I will soon patch some seams on a FC 470.

Is Aquaseal a good alternative? I thought I should use thin hypalon and glue, but if Aquaseal does the job I'll use it. But does it last?

Cheers