Delrin valve options, are there any?

[Bodge]

I've searched the net and haven't seen anything at all. Am I inept or chasing a unicorn?

[office888]

Originally Posted by Bodge

I've searched the net and haven't seen anything at all. Am I inept or chasing a unicorn?

Are you looking for IC valve inserts + caps for your old Commando?
Or something else?

[Bodge]

Originally Posted by office888

Are you looking for IC valve inserts + caps for your old Commando?
Or something else?

Both boats I own have Delrin valves and nether have anyway to vent in case of over pressure like the newer models. My dream insert would allow filling, discharge, over pressure protection and an easy way to check pressure with a gauge.

Also, I don't really know what a IC valve insert is....

That C5 in the sun really heats up on the trailer so it got me thinking.

In terms of PSI how much of an increase is possible from full sun exposure? Is this a valid concern?

[office888]

Originally Posted by Bodge

Both boats I own have Delrin valves and nether have anyway to vent in case of over pressure like the newer models. My dream insert would allow filling, discharge, over pressure protection and an easy way to check pressure with a gauge.

Also, I don't really know what a IC valve insert is....

The big chrome thing that you can spin is an IC valve. Zodiac innovation. It allows you to fill two chambers from one point. You can spin to select A, B, A+B, or none.

To deflate, you unscrew the cap and you unscrew the insert.

The inserts and caps are made of either delrin or nickel-plates brass.

If properly adjusted and lubricated, the IC valve will act as an over pressure valve. Pull outward on the chromed flywheel and you'll see what I mean.

[Bodge]

Originally Posted by office888

The big chrome thing that you can spin is an IC valve. Zodiac innovation. It allows you to fill two chambers from one point. You can spin to select A, B, A+B, or none.

To deflate, you unscrew the cap and you unscrew the insert.

The inserts and caps are made of either delrin or nickel-plates brass.

If properly adjusted and lubricated, the IC valve will act as an over pressure valve. Pull outward on the chromed flywheel and you'll see what I mean.

Oh I see now. I know the valves you mean but I dont have those. I have the no frills black plastic insert with cap.

[office888]

[QUOTE=Bodge;714696]Oh I see now. I know the valves you mean but I dont have those. I have the no frills black plastic insert with cap.[/QUOTE

Your valve assembly isn't like this?



Ps, if anyone is curious, this is the inside. The red hose penetrates the baffle and goes to the other chamber. Ripped out of a junk MK3 GR.

[Bodge]

Nope, I have these classy numbers.

[cgoing]

That is an I/ c valve from many years ago. They did make them with a plastic flywheel which yours appears to have. Valves probably need rebuilding but do have the pressure relief built in.

[office888]

Originally Posted by Bodge

Nope, I have these classy numbers.

Looks like an old corroded IC valve to me.

Can you unscrew the insert and get a picture inside the valve?

[Bodge]

First time I looked down that valve is when the flash went off.....

So these valves release pressure as well? These pics are from my 1970 GR MK11 but the C5 has them as well.

[office888]

Originally Posted by Bodge

First time I looked down that valve is when the flash went off.....

So these valves release pressure as well? These pics are from my 1970 GR MK11 but the C5 has them as well.

Attached are some diagrams from a 30 year old Zodiac service manual I have.

If the valves are seized (if you can't turn the flywheel), you may need a Zodiac MilPro service center to assist you...it requires a special tool to unseize them without damage. Since they are bronze, they are quite soft. If you damage one of these valves, you basically junk the boat...the valves are about ~$500 new. They also take many many hours to install due to the complexity.

[Bodge]

Thank you Richard for the valve schematic, I can now wrap my head around how that thing works. The assembly is on there pretty tightly so it may have to go to Milpro for assistance. Any ideas on what a valve rebuild would cost?

[office888]

Originally Posted by Bodge

Thank you Richard for the valve schematic, I can now wrap my head around how that thing works. The assembly is on there pretty tightly so it may have to go to Milpro for assistance. Any ideas on what a valve rebuild would cost?

Maybe give it a shot yourself first? Try wiggling the flywheel by hand. You might be able to get it to move. If it moves, you should be able to pull it free without tooling. Just remove the nut with a 10mm deep well socket. If the double-male threaded stud comes with the nut, you'll have to loctite it back in to the inner cup.

If you remove the circlip, you can pull the flywheel off and then you can see the tiny crevice between the inner & outer cup. Spray it with a little penetrating oil. Maybe hit the inner cup with a hot air gun on low heat then with some freeze spray or an ice cube to cool it down.

If you can't get it to budge, don't force it.

[Bodge]

Originally Posted by office888

Maybe give it a shot yourself first? Try wiggling the flywheel by hand. You might be able to get it to move. If it moves, you should be able to pull it free without tooling. Just remove the nut with a 10mm deep well socket. If the double-male threaded stud comes with the nut, you'll have to loctite it back in to the inner cup.

If you remove the circlip, you can pull the flywheel off and then you can see the tiny crevice between the inner & outer cup. Spray it with a little penetrating oil. Maybe hit the inner cup with a hot air gun on low heat then with some freeze spray or an ice cube to cool it down.

If you can't get it to budge, don't force it.

Ill give it a gentle go this evening and see how I make out. I suspect the valve has not been apart since 1970...

[office888]

Originally Posted by Bodge

Ill give it a gentle go this evening and see how I make out. I suspect the valve has not been apart since 1970...

That would not be good. In saltwater, they should be cleaned & lubricated about every 3 months depending on use.

Evinrude Triple Guard grease is the specified grease for the application.

[Bodge]

Originally Posted by office888

That would not be good. In saltwater, they should be cleaned & lubricated about every 3 months depending on use.

Evinrude Triple Guard grease is the specified grease for the application.

This boat has not seen hardly any use despite its age and could pass as a fairly new boat from 6 feet away. Hopefully the valves will cooperate this evening.

On another note....

The thrust board needs some attention and I am about to tackle that issue. I have the procedure worked out in stages and Im fairly confident it will work out. I have been told by Industrial Plastics (an all things plastic supplier) that their hypalon glue called Rainbow R 129 One part is suitable and appropriate for this repair.

I have always used Z Marine 2 part and am sceptical of the advice given. The only reason I am considering this glue is because it is easy for me to get locally.

Have you ever heard of this brand of glue?

http://rainbowindustrialproducts.wee..._adhesives.pdf

R 129 Glue is located on the second page of the link.

[Squid Boat]

Over the years I've done a few transoms and thrust boards, I only use this:
Z7098

Cheers

[Bodge]

Originally Posted by Squid Boat

Over the years I've done a few transoms and thrust boards, I only use this:
Z7098

Cheers

Looks familiar. Point taken.

[Bodge]

Wow.... those valves came apart with no effort, way to easy. I'm sure I'll lose some parts to make up for it.....

[Bodge]

Seems Zodiac does it a different way and at their retail prices it should be spectacular...