Elling KB350 setup and mods etc

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Tel1965

The only trouble I’ve had with the valves is the fact I didn’t understand how they worked, it took me a little while to figure it out, got there in the end though. Couldn’t get the damn thing back in it’s bag properly after deflating. But that’s something else I’m going to have to learn to do.

I use the “deflate” function of the HIKS pump on the Volaire. It sucks out all the air & makes the (deflated) boat much easier to handle. If you line all the seams up as it deflates it rolls up nice & neat. I vac it out with the valves locked open & then release the vacuum to ambient. If you vac it with the valves “closed” it retains the vacuum & is stiff to handle. Oooer matron.

[Tel1965]

I used the deflate function on the outdoor master, but didn’t want to suck too much out because I thought it might go solid like one of those vacuum bags. Maybe I should of took all the air out. It’s going to be a long long learning curve for me.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Tel1965

I used the deflate function on the outdoor master, but didn’t want to suck too much out because I thought it might go solid like one of those vacuum bags. Maybe I should of took all the air out. It’s going to be a long long learning curve for me.

Suck out all the air & then open the valve to release the vacuum. The boat will then be at its lowest volume, but pliant.

[Tel1965]

Cheers Dave, I’ll do that next time. I’m learning as I’m going along, slowly but surely.

[Steve509926]

Originally Posted by Tel1965

here are some more photos of my days trials and tribulations. i still havnt put the engine on yet so i will be trying that on over the next few days, weather permitting

It's lookng really good Tel, like the looks of the A frame.

[Fenlander]

Great look with red seats... are they part of the seat bags or did you just get red ones?

Re the transom wheels... have to be brutally honest there's not enough ground clearance and I'd not fit them... you risk damaging the tube ends and possibly outboard skeg over bumps and kerbs etc.

[Big Al C]

Basically what I was thinking.

[Tel1965]

David, the red seats are part of the seat bags so I now have the black ones spare unless I can find another use for them. Ideas very welcome.
As to the wheels, I thought they might be a little short, but when I moved one of the bolts down to the spare hole it didn’t look so bad. I’ll set it back up again on Sunday when the weather will be a bit better and clamp some bits of ply to raise it up to the height I can achieve and see if it’ll be ok.
The missus is very happy with the boat and can’t wait to get out in it, so to keep her even more sweet I bought her a GoPro hero 9 and all the accessories for it. It’s a small price to pay to stop her nagging about the decorating so I can concentrate on the boat.

[Oldman2]

Tel, to try and help here is a photo of my wheels against the depth of the tubes. The wheels are 250mm sandhoppers. The alloy axle section length is 475mm top radiused edge to axle centerline. The transom top to bottom is 320mm at the axle fix point. So bottom of the transom to the ground is aprox 305mm.


I cant drop my outboard to trim pin position (fully down) as the skeg hits the ground. I would need to go to 350mm wheels which would touch the boat underside unless I redrilled the alloy outer channel.


The clearance is though enough that lifting the bow to walk the boat does not in my case rub tube ends on the ground.
My wheels when bought came with 200mm wheels and really didnt look right with less tube clearance.
my wheels on.jpg

[Tel1965]

Thank you oldman2, I’ll try my ply idea first just to see what it’ll do. If that doesn’t work then I’ll get the legs extended by a couple of inches at work. It’ll be a very simple case of cutting off a rounded section of the bar and welding a bit on. Whichever way I’m going to do it they are going to work, I’ll make sure of that. To be honest, when I moved the bar down into the spare hole it looked about the same clearance as what you have in the photo. Hopefully tomorrow will be dry and I can set it back up again in the garden and try again. There is still so much I’ve got to do before I feel confident enough to get it in the water.

[Tel1965]

David, did your tohatsu come with a fuel tank? And did it have a fuel gauge ?
Mine hasn’t got a fuel gauge so could you recommend a cheapish one that does have a gauge. I’ll also need a tachometer but can’t remember which one you suggested to get.

[Fenlander]

Yes mine has the original 12l Tohatsu tank... also without gauge. I like a gauge but not enough to swap the tank to get one. I work out the likely fuel use for a day out and use the rule of thirds... third out... third back... third in reserve. So rarely look in the tank mid trip just at the end of the day to see if I need to get more for the next trip.

Over the years I've had these same design 12l tanks with and without gauges.

I think you can get an in-cap gauge to just swap for your plain cap. Google and there will be a genuine Tohatsu part and aftermarket alternatives. If you really wanted a new tank here is the same OE tank design with a gauge in the cap...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402271879...0AAOxy039TNHFf

Here is the Mariner version with separate gauge and stronger outlet connection like the larger tanks...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152689235...EAAMXQXTZRfih0

If I was buying new to get a gauge I'd personally pay the extra and get the Mariner type. As well as a liking the way the gauge displays for a quick glance the outlet connection is more secure... both in the way it attaches to the tank and more importantly the security of the outlet connection arrangement. On our Tohatsus the fuel line connection is secured to the tank spigot with a snap on connector with a pull back collar. It has happened to me and others that someone stepping or rubbing across the top of the tank (or a dog moving about) can brush the collar back causing the connector to release a little enough to pull air not fuel but not enough to be visually obvious. Some folks have just made a permanent connection this end pushing the hose on the spigot and using a jubilee clip to secure. I may well do this.

The Mariner design has a shrouded arrangement for the fuel line connector which is almost impossible to knock off in error.

Re the tacho I've always liked a particular type with an earth wire while less easy to find they tend to give more stable and accurate readings... but their battery is sealed in and lasts 5yrs max then get another or engage in messy surgery and bodge in a new battery. You might have read before the last one I bought of that type was old stock and the battery failed almost immediately.

So I bought this which has a replaceable battery and so far worked well for a third of the cost of my previous favourite...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313377547926

Many types can suffer water ingress if left out on the tiller full time. I only use mine for getting an idea how any new to me engine runs revs wise and also to check the prop pitch is correct... then I retire them to a protected position under the hood just for hour logging and checking idle speed at service time.

[Tel1965]

Thanks David. Always so helpful. I had a quick look for a replacement cap. The ones I saw were quite expensive and as someone would say for a few quid more I could get the whole tank. Although I doubt I’ll ever use a full tank in a day, I would find it useful to have a gauge, so I’ll have a good look around and see if I can pick up a bargain somewhere.

[chipko]

Both good and interesting to see we’re all in the process of fitting different transom wheels... one size definitely not suitable for all.

Basing my decision largely what we already have available, although hopefully suitable, and they are some Russian (appropriate for an Elling methinks) super strong jobbies fashioned from ex. military grade stainless steel. Have two sets both with the same mahoosive brackets so can pick ‘n’ mix so to speak. The cranked ones are a throwback to our T38 with trim tabs, but were great to use,



The only tip I would have for others is to make sure any lower fixing holes in the transom are well above the inflatable floor...don’t want those pesky inner fixings abraiding that!


On the inflation front, have found generic Halkey Robert’s/Bravo adapters and gauges also fit the Ellings Borika brand valves, albeit with a bit of ‘fettling’ and additional spacers. Probably only relevant, if like us, use your battery pumps for other sibs/paddle boards etc. with generic Halkey Robert’s type valves.



If you want to take the strain off two stage pumps during inflation, and open the Borika inner valve, go for the ones with the adjustable inner pin like below.

[Tel1965]

Chipko, I have an outdoor master shark pump which is 2 stage, I had to use a couple of gaskets to get a good seal but it still wasn’t perfect, I had to hold the hose in a certain position to maintain the seal, would the valve in the last pic help me at all? And if so where would I get one from?

[PEveritt]

I like I am sure many others who will not be going abroad on Holiday this year have decided to buy a cheapish boat setup to have some fun on the water. I am wondering if this Elling would be a decent boat for a person who is new to the world of blow up boats as their first boat. It would be for just myself and my Partner. We both have little experience of boating but looking to dip out toes in so to speak

[Fenlander]

Hi PE and welcome to the forum.

Much depends on your intended areas of operation river/sea/how challenging... the speeds you are looking for plane/displacement... budget for outboard... carry in the back of the car or on a trailer... if a daily setup can you carry heavier weights and so on.

For my use where I'm having to keep the weight down... two of us plus dog... want to set up daily from the back of the car... want a comfortable 15kts from a 10hp... enjoy something lively... well it's looking good so far.

David

[chipko]

Tel, your shark pump adapter may seal better with more or thicker washers. Or if you’re only inflating the Elling then perhaps just swap over the bayonet fitting that came with the boat, and use that on the shark pump.

The type with adjustable inner pin seem to fit most types of bayonet valves if you have a good selection of spacers. Think the ones below are all similar or the same.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252006762625


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363031016764


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152694738957

[Steve509926]

Originally Posted by PEveritt

We both have little experience of boating but looking to dip out toes in so to speak

Hi PE and welcome, it may be a good idea to start a new post asking for advice from other members who may not be following this thread.
I would include a lot more information ie: what's your location, how much experience you actually have, what you want to do with the sib, your budget, where you will store it, what car/van/truck you have to transport it and the OB, where do you want to go on the water. etc

[Fenlander]

You're lucky Chipko having a transom wheel stock... having bought ones that don't fit and now buying more Zodiac branded ones I'm about £270 down... hopefully get a bit back on the unused first set though.

Re the gauges good to know the standard HR fitting works. I've just ordered this Bravo HR fit gauge with the three seals and adjustable plunger to open the valve so hopefully it will work.