Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 11 May 2020, 22:21   #1
Member
 
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 18
Enlarge a snatch for repair

Hi,

I'd like to learn from your experience how to cut the snatch (rounder?) for the highest amount of stress relieve.
It is an L-shape of 12x7cm currently / approximately 5x3".
I've read this topic - https://www.rib.net/forum/f50/internal-patch-45055.html - but some people also talk of 'enlarging the snatch and make it rounder'



__________________
Henkies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 May 2020, 23:58   #2
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Cardiff
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,018
Patch? Snatch is something totally different
__________________
HDAV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 00:18   #3
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Waterlooville
Boat name: Tickler
Make: Halmatic P22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 240HP
MMSI: 235115642
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,777
RIBase
Yes - that would do it!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Ribnet.JPG
Views:	97
Size:	13.7 KB
ID:	133067  
__________________
GuyC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 07:20   #4
Member
 
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 18
A tear I mean! Unfortunately I seem unable to change the title or post...
__________________
Henkies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 07:59   #5
Member
 
spartacus's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,641
RIBase
That's quite a hole. What's it on a Zodiac Futura or Pro?

The material is Strongan Duotex, basically PVC. It's actually quite a good size as you can get your hand in to repair. Polymarine 2-part glue is needed, and good ambient temperatures with low humidity to work in, and of course a well ventilated area. The first issue is getting the Zodiac logo off the tube material, as you will need this area clear for the outer patch to sit flush. Pretty sure these badges are thermo bonded on, but you might be able to work it off with a heat gun and plastic scraper. https://www.polymarine.com/advice/pv...om-pvc-fabric/

As per previous posts on your link, you're probably going to need a patch inside that's at least 2" larger than the cut area diameter, rounded corners, etc. Sand and degrease the inside of the tube and the patch with solvent. If it were me, have a dry run without glue to see how you are going to approach this.

I'd line the inside of the tube with chalk dust and a layer of polythene tacked in place with frog tape. You can extract the polythene later through one of the valves. Once you apply pressure to the inner patch, you don't want it to stick to the tube on the opposite side hence the polythene.

The inside of the tube needs to be masked off after sanding and degreasing, as you're applying glue here too and on the patch. First layer of glue goes on and allow it to dry, say 20-30 minutes. Second layer of glue goes on, after 5 minutes it's ready to apply. As it's a contact adhesive, you get one shot at this, hence the dry run. Start at the section where the branded logo was and work back towards the cone end.

Another option is to line the inside of the tube with polythene and prepare the patch inside the tube, in effect lining up the tube cut to the patch, rather than the other way around. Might be a cleaner way to do it. Once it contacts, use a spreader to apply pleasure from the centre out and leave under weight for 24-48 hours. Afterwards you can inflate, but not to normal operating pressure to make sure nothing has stuck inside. Outer patch is relatively straight forward, just mask off once you've prepared the patch, again rounded corners, sand and degrease. Deflate tube, with the patch applied and left for a further 24-48 hours under weight, now you can pressure test.

Speak to a dealer as you should be able to get that Zodiac logo patch too, in effect it's a third layer and gives the repair strength.

Be interested to see progress on this. If this repair process scares you, take it to a main dealer as I agree its quite involved, but ultimately doable.
__________________
Is that with or without VAT?
spartacus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 08:45   #6
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Waterlooville
Boat name: Tickler
Make: Halmatic P22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 240HP
MMSI: 235115642
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,777
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henkies View Post
A tear I mean! Unfortunately I seem unable to change the title or post...
Apologies for not being very helpful but it did liven up my evening. Your English is infinitely better than my Dutch. Hopefully, it looks like Spartacus may have come to your aid.
__________________
GuyC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 11:16   #7
Member
 
Country: Netherlands
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
That's quite a hole. What's it on a Zodiac Futura or Pro?

Speak to a dealer as you should be able to get that Zodiac logo patch too, in effect it's a third layer and gives the repair strength.

Be interested to see progress on this. If this repair process scares you, take it to a main dealer as I agree its quite involved, but ultimately doable.
It's a futura. But strongan pvc indeed.
Getting PE out through the valve is a very good one!

So no need to cut the hole rounder?
Don't you have experience with hear activated contact glue? Makes the inside patch easier to do ...
__________________
Henkies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 14:41   #8
Member
 
spartacus's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,641
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henkies View Post
It's a futura. But strongan pvc indeed.
Getting PE out through the valve is a very good one!
Probably not essential, but keeps it tidy. Polythene down first and tacked in place to stop it moving, then chalk dust on top. Once the second coat of glue is applied to the patch and inside the tube - are you able to get the patch inside the tube without touching anything? Lay the patch on the chalk dust carefully and remove the timber pole (which keeps the tube open) ready for the contact phase.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Henkies View Post
So no need to cut the hole rounder?
Don't you have experience with hear activated contact glue? Makes the inside patch easier to do ...
No need to touch the hole in my experience, work with what you have, as you're potentially enlarging it otherwise. I'd only remove material if you have frayed ends, but it looks like a very clean cut. No experience with heat activated glue. I've read a few of the Polymarine tutorials, and sometimes you can reactivate the glue (we're talking a few minutes here) after it goes off with a heat gun.

Watched this on YouTube.

Approach is the same, however preparation is everything. If you have a garage or workshop, get the boat in and make sure area the is clear of dust and nothing needs to move after you make the final contact. Look out suitable weights. A plywood section to spread the weight would be useful. Getting the boat tube absolutely flat may also be an issue, but look to fold in the transom to get the right angle of attack.

Still think working with the patch already in the tube is the way to go, and laying the tube material onto the coated patch offers the best approach in terms of keeping it clean and avoiding rubber gloves sticking to the contact adhesive. Once the final application of glue is in place on the inside of the tube and patch, after 5 minutes, remove the masking tape inside, line it up and make the final contact.

Again - do a dry run on this a few times without adhesive. You get one shot.
__________________
Is that with or without VAT?
spartacus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 19:32   #9
Member
 
Country: Canada
Town: st. john's, Newfoundland
Boat name: TBD
Make: Zodiac Hurricane 530
Length: 5m +
Engine: MERC 75HP 4S
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 64
just google:

"how to enlarge a snatch"

You should get your answer

(seriously though, don't do it..)
__________________
johnrambo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 19:44   #10
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leicester
Length: 5m +
Engine: 135hp Mercury
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,431
Just like to say 'Thank you' to the OP for one of the funniest thread titles I've seen in a long time, a light spot in the current climate.
__________________
paintman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2020, 21:58   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Waterlooville
Boat name: Tickler
Make: Halmatic P22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel 240HP
MMSI: 235115642
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,777
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by paintman View Post
Just like to say 'Thank you' to the OP for one of the funniest thread titles I've seen in a long time, a tight spot in the current climate.
Fixed it for you
__________________
GuyC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 May 2020, 02:36   #12
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: Langkawi, Malaysia
Length: no boat
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 45
The other way is to prepare the outside surface to glue. Then using some UV proof thread, sew the cut making sure the edges butt together. Then do a double patch on it.
__________________
Eric is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
repair


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 00:00.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.