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17 November 2019, 17:51
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Excel 435 HD fit out from scratch
As above, I thought I would do this as a project step by step including all the kit I carry and why as well as a review to start and a final test next season or if the weather plays ball when it's finished.
I acquired the new all black excel 435 HD last Tuesday, I picked it up from excel part exchanging my Mercury 365 HD and dropping it off. I set my trailer up for the extra length 700mm by moving the winch post forward, turning the post through 180 degrees so it has the winch on the opposite side. The reason is the bow shear on the excel is a lot higher than the Mercury so the snubber pad has to be higher. It also meant the transom support had to be extended back, I was given the wrong measurement from Terry so the support didn't stick out as much as he said no big problem as I just cut it off and repositioned. This is made from key lock hand railing seen everywhere easy to use and loads of different fitting to use as you require, I bought mine local but places like the metal store sell on line.
I'd asked for it to be built up so I could just tie it on and go they had been busy so I had to wait but that was ok I saw it go together and it was great to watch them struggle with the cold material for first pump up, something to think about if you buy new there stiff as, that stiff I can't fit the paddles in the clips yet.
First impressions are very good, build quality as good as any all very neat with some nice additions.
5 tube compartments with a over pressure valve in the bow so pumping from the bow back relives all compartments pressures marked on the valves including the keel, paddles on the side about 6 inches up from the floor just right I think. Two gate drain valves for the bilge I will only use one saving the other and swapping over if one leaks badly, a strap for the fuel tank at the stern port side, lifelines on the hogging rail all around although I'm not a fan of the rope (self splice) it doesn't fall level I hope the warm weather might sort it if not I'll change out.
There's two seats aluminium a lot lighter than the Mercury seats but solid and the good thing is they are on slide rails which gives a lot of adjustment which for me is very important.
The tubes are reinforced on the hull ideal for beaching the fabric I went for is the standard 1100 0.9 MM as apposed to the 1640 1.2 MM my take is 0.3 MM not going to be a massive for punctures only wear and since I look after my boats it wasn't a deal breaker for me others might differ, she weighs in at 95 kg 5 kg lighter that the Mercury although the new Mercury boat have come down to 78 kg possibly a new material. That's about it for now I've started the build so will stick some pics up soon.
https://www.excel-inflatables.co.uk/...oat-xhd435.php
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18 November 2019, 11:11
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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pics
pics of the boat
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18 November 2019, 11:18
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#3
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,993
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Very SAS Jeff. Will this be Spy-sea-two?
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18 November 2019, 11:25
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
Very SAS Jeff. Will this be Spy-sea-two?
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ha ha yes i'm quite took with the colour david, the red was good but marked up with the dry suit boots getting in and out it's not very pretty watching me clamber aboard i can tell you . i'm going to leave the name and just change insurance & CG66 info.
starting with the trailer changes first pic is the key lock hand rail fitted through the original clamp using the original buffalo board pad with some imitation grass stuck to it, a FOC sample stops the boat sliding sideways. second pic is the winch post just moved forward the position allows my car back door to open and with the post high i can see it through the mirror to prevent going too far when reversing causing damage to the car.
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18 November 2019, 12:47
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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fitting the engine
after picking the engine up from central marine services in the afternoon and fitting it to the transom i noticed it was 50mm low keel to cav plate this is in part because the transom is 15 inches as opposed to the mercury at 16 inches but the rake angle is greater on the excel which makes it lower i know the angle is different because i always have the trim set at 2nd hole back on the mercury it was virtually vertical its now kicking in so needs to come out one more pin but thats for a later date during testing.
so measuring up i find i can only lift the engine by 40mm because i want the screw clamps to still be on the transom not the spacer. i ordered a piece of 40 x 55 x 250mm HDPE from trent plastics and had it cut from a 250 x 250 piece [smallest i could buy]. i radiused the edges and drilled two screw holes stuck it on with everbuild sealer glue and screwed down in position [ss screws] fitted the engine tightened it up on the screws final check and drilled the transom bolt holes and fixed, sealing the holes plus the eye bolts that had to be fitted for transportation by excel. pics showing the before and after, i'm still 10 mm low but not too concerned as with weight in the bow for camping trips i get a bit of cavitation in the rough or i did with the mercury.
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18 November 2019, 13:03
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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fuel tank lines & water separator
next was to fit the fuel tank separator & lines, now i had water problems in the fuel not too sure where from but i'm not taking any chances so when this boat had a strap fitted at the stern port side opposite me steering was ideal away from most of the spray balancing up my weight a bit too, i positioned the water separator as high as possible on the transom so it's easy to drain if needed, it also keeps the fuel lines shorter and the primer bulb to hand if i need it especially if i get the same fuel problem occur again where i need to prime to keep the engine going. i emptied the tank to make sure it was clean and no water in there and blew all the lines and separator through with compressed air. when i refill it will have stabilizer and fuel set to get rid of water if any present. ok might be overkill but trust me after two seasons of problems its justified for me.
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18 November 2019, 17:17
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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bow kit & anchor box
before i install this box i thought i would go through my stuff some of this ive been carrying for over 40 years i know kitchen sink but better to have than not. so
TOOL KIT
spanners all sizes, pliers, screwdrivers & allen keys
fuses, spark plugs, boat valve, rope, elec connectors, tie wraps, boat repair kits 2 sorts, fuel bulb, hose clips, kill cord, elec tape, fuel connectors, fuel filter, cig lighters, spark plug gap tool, volts/amps,ohm meter.
SAFETY KIT
gel & stove 3 hrs burn, survival bags, odeo flare, first aid kit, seasick watch & batteries, hand warmers, spare AA batteries for radio & odeo flare, survival kit in one box includes sewing kit, fire steel compass, wire saw, other stuff to get a fire going.
MISCELLANEOUS
jiggle hose, fishing reel, fishing hooks/weights/etc, green river knife cuts through owt quick, length 6mm rope, 10-5mm bungee, work gloves & 1 ton strop.
all carried in three shmuly flare boxes.
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19 November 2019, 08:11
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stirling
Boat name: The Gurnard
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 4m +
Engine: mariner 25hp 2s
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,671
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Great looking boat Jeff ..and perhaps I will replace the old "Gurnard" with an excel when the time comes. She is 15 years old next season..but still going strong ..so perhaps she will out last me ...and I wont need a replacement
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19 November 2019, 09:20
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gurnard
Great looking boat Jeff ..and perhaps I will replace the old "Gurnard" with an excel when the time comes. She is 15 years old next season..but still going strong ..so perhaps she will out last me ...and I wont need a replacement
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hi Donny hope you are keeping well. yes very pleased with the boat, both yours and gordon's boats were making me a bit jealous a bit longer and the 500mm tubes makes for a better ride plus the extra room. nothing wrong with your boat mate i would keep it, it certainly disproves the myth of PVC not lasting for sure. i would have stayed with the mercury/quicksilver brand but the bigger boat needs a long shaft the excel is short shaft and only cost me £730 to swap so its a big win for me.
finally got the engine sorted so will be all set for the new season.
cheers jeff
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19 November 2019, 15:09
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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bow kit and anchor box
after sorting my stuff out in the flare boxes thinking i was going to lighten a bit i took a midge net,sun tan cream & reading specs that dont help now anymore.
ive decided to keep odds and sods in two old rubbish bins cut down to the correct height and leave my anchor, chain & warp loose in the gap left thats easier than trying to wrap up quickly, the box is heavy duty so it will last. link below.
the box sits 100mm away from the tubes each side and will be fastened down with my old fuel tank brackets and extended straps, the position is on the first floor board [aluminium from the bow] that leaves quite a space forward for camping gear and getting at the keel valve if needed. i'm undecided how to fix as yet in the past ive used threaded inserts in ali with ss bolts with silicon grease to prevent corrosion which works but the floorboards on the mercury had vertical strengthening which stopped drilling a perfect hole in certain positions, so i'm leaning toward ali pop rivets with ali washers on the plastic brackets.
the box is 150 ltr for info there's quite a range in sizes and from recycled plastic doing my bit for the planet.
https://www.plasticboxshop.co.uk/hom...ox-with-lid-p4
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25 November 2019, 10:27
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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kit box and anchor box
so i decided to fix the old petrol tank brackets down for the box also used aluminium pop rivets, put a bit of closed cell foam on them to stop slide on the box sideways.the straps on the buckle end [bow side i captivated with two retainers this is so the lid can blow away and also keep the straps inline.
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25 November 2019, 12:07
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,993
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I know you're not getting loads of comments Jeff but lots of views... do keep on with this... really interesting to see someone's fit out ideas.
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25 November 2019, 12:43
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
I know you're not getting loads of comments Jeff but lots of views... do keep on with this... really interesting to see someone's fit out ideas.
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I’m watching, and learning.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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25 November 2019, 12:48
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
I know you're not getting loads of comments Jeff but lots of views... do keep on with this... really interesting to see someone's fit out ideas.
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hi David thanks for your interest, to be honest i like to do this especially for the new guys, it helps to have it in one place and hopefully i'm covering most things i suppose it's better that its not full of comments in that respect. next up is the electronics[console] not fully got my head round this yet as its got to change in terms of attaching, i'm leaning toward the front seat especially since it slides might get this sorted in the next few days.
cheers for now
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25 November 2019, 12:53
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
I’m watching, and learning.
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ive been waiting for you Dave wanted to see your electronics set up i know we spoke about the railblaza/scotty stuff but i trolled through the web and didnt find anything to top my DIY console so sticking with it.
did you manage to get out yet for the first trial?
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25 November 2019, 14:02
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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console position
ok couple of pics on the position of the console, my initial thoughts was to have it on the seat then it could be adjusted forward and backward great, it would need the left side cutting off and the right side [under the radio] building up which would make another pocket for kit, but setting it up roughly i dont like it at all sticks out like a sore thumb. i'm more into function than anything but this is too far for me.
so its back fixed to the hogging rail [as the mercury was] with the angled piece on the far right tight up to the rail and a back plate on the outside through bolted with SS bolts encapsulating the hogging rail material.
the far left bent piece of 5mm HDPE supported on the closed cell foam i will extend down to a fixing on the floor i will make so it's through bolted to make a hinge, this piece of HDPE acts like a shock absorber between the tube and aluminium floor, the hinge is so i can undo the hogging rail bolts and lay the unit on the floor to get at the inflation valve which is situated behind it not ideal but not everything works perfect. so a fair bit of fab work to do before i set up the wiring and VHF aerial which i'm not sure on position yet i had it on the stern on the mercury but inclined to set up on the console so it drops down without taking it apart for transport.
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25 November 2019, 14:07
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
ive been waiting for you Dave wanted to see your electronics set up i know we spoke about the railblaza/scotty stuff but i trolled through the web and didnt find anything to top my DIY console so sticking with it.
did you manage to get out yet for the first trial?
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Its still WIP, I'm nearly there, just waiting for a buck regulator off Amazon for the lithium battery charging side. I fried the last one, don't ask
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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25 November 2019, 16:16
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
ok couple of pics on the position of the console, my initial thoughts was to have it on the seat then it could be adjusted forward and backward great, it would need the left side cutting off and the right side [under the radio] building up which would make another pocket for kit, but setting it up roughly i dont like it at all sticks out like a sore thumb. i'm more into function than anything but this is too far for me.
so its back fixed to the hogging rail [as the mercury was] with the angled piece on the far right tight up to the rail and a back plate on the outside through bolted with SS bolts encapsulating the hogging rail material.
the far left bent piece of 5mm HDPE supported on the closed cell foam i will extend down to a fixing on the floor i will make so it's through bolted to make a hinge, this piece of HDPE acts like a shock absorber between the tube and aluminium floor, the hinge is so i can undo the hogging rail bolts and lay the unit on the floor to get at the inflation valve which is situated behind it not ideal but not everything works perfect. so a fair bit of fab work to do before i set up the wiring and VHF aerial which i'm not sure on position yet i had it on the stern on the mercury but inclined to set up on the console so it drops down without taking it apart for transport.
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The photos aren’t displaying for some reason Jeff.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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25 November 2019, 17:02
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: Humber Ocean Pro
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 200HP
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 999
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I can see the pictures ok [emoji106]
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25 November 2019, 17:19
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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me too
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