Exmoor coast
So I yesterday I went exploring the exmoor coast in the aerotec. Set off at first light from Lee (the village just west of Ilfracombe, not the one further east towards Lynmouth).
Lee/ Lee bay is stunning, well worth a visit whether you're boating or not. Consists of several rocky beaches connected by 'smuggers' paths cut into the rock face. It's not a well known location and is rarely crowded, even in summer. There is a small steep slipway with a free (for now) carpark just behind. Launching takes place with care through a narrow gut in the rocks where the stream has cut a channel over the years. Also the pub, the Grampus, is well worth a visit, it's one of my favorites.
Navigating this coastline requires great care. Most of the shoreline is inaccessible, steep and rocky. Choose a day of neap tides, light winds and avoid a strong wind over tide scenario. Ideal wind would be southerly or no wind. Yesterday was spring tides, with light westerlies, which made me pay on the way back! Even on neaps the tide is fierce along this coastline, resulting in a lot of turbulence and big standing waves at virtually every headland. I managed very few photos en route, the boat was pitching too much to get a steady shot.
So heading east from Lee Bay the next stop is Ilfracombe. Not a bad place to visit or launch from either. It's really improving as a town these days, when we first moved to Devon it was looking and feeling pretty rough with derelict houses and hotels throughout. But it's been rediscovered and redeveloped of late, particularly since Damien Hirst moved to the area and opened a gallery.
Next along is Watermouth. Blink and you'll miss the entrance, particularly if you're concentrating on the turbulence just outside the entrance. Its a natural harbour and if you moor up there, cross the main road you'll find Watermouth Castle which is worth a look around.
Just around the headland is Combe Martin. You can drive your boat right up to the beach here and enjoy a pint overlooking the water. The village supposedly has the longest high street in the UK...
Heading east Exmoor proper begins. The hangmen, some of the tallest sea cliffs in the UK tower over the sea. This is a very remote and inhospitable section of coast. There are tall waterfalls dotted along this section. The area is so inaccessible that in WW2 German U boats would put ashore to take on fresh water from the falls and give the crew some fresh air on moonlit nights.
At this point I turned round and headed for home. I could have made it to Lynmouth but I'd have had to get a taxi back to Lee to collect the van. This journey could be done on one tide in both directions though, given better conditions. A round trip would be in the region of 30NM. As always, if anyone's interested in this trip, or Lundy then contact me and I'll remember to give you a shout when there's a weather window.
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