Fitting transom wheels

[Combat]

My excel 330 arrived today, I want to fix my transom wheels this weekend, Im new to this so need some advice, could anyone tell what silicone is best to use ? Do I only need to put silicone on the nuts and bolts? Or do I need to cover back of bracket with it? My transom wheels have come without instructions, so not sure where to drill holes, is there a special position to fix brackets? Height? Width? How far away from the tubes Don't want to mess this up.

Thankyou

[Fenlander]

Do you have a photo of the transom wheels you have and of the transom... it would help us give advice.

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by Combat

My excel 330 arrived today, I want to fix my transom wheels this weekend, Im new to this so need some advice, could anyone tell what silicone is best to use ? Do I only need to put silicone on the nuts and bolts? Or do I need to cover back of bracket with it? My transom wheels have come without instructions, so not sure where to drill holes, is there a special position to fix brackets? Height? Width? How far away from the tubes Don't want to mess this up.

Thankyou

Look at a Product called CT1 you will not find better

[Fenlander]

I wasn't sure but I've just checked a data sheet to confirm CT1 is OK for salt water and it is, primarily a builders do everything sealer/adhesive. The usual forum advised product for sealing anything on a boat is Sikaflex.

Whichever you use it only needs to seal holes through the transom to stop water ingress to its core. Remember to seal from both inside and outside of the transom. I'd not put it on the back of the bracket as it could make them a pig to remove in the future if needed.

I'll wait to hear where the transom wheels came from/what model and pics if possible before advising more... to avoid having 8 holes in the wrong place you need to get this right first time.

[smallribber]

CT1 Is incredible stuff far better than Sika

[Combat]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

I wasn't sure but I've just checked a data sheet to confirm CT1 is OK for salt water and it is, primarily a builders do everything sealer/adhesive. The usual forum advised product for sealing anything on a boat is Sikaflex.

Whichever you use it only needs to seal holes through the transom to stop water ingress to its core. Remember to seal from both inside and outside of the transom. I'd not put it on the back of the bracket as it could make them a pig to remove in the future if needed.

I'll wait to hear where the transom wheels came from/what model and pics if possible before advising more... to avoid having 8 holes in the wrong place you need to get this right first time.

My wheels are 250mm pneumatic, retractable and detachable , can't tell you anymore than that, as I haven't got any more info

[Combat]

Originally Posted by Bigplumbs

CT1 Is incredible stuff far better than Sika

Cheers for that

[Combat]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

I wasn't sure but I've just checked a data sheet to confirm CT1 is OK for salt water and it is, primarily a builders do everything sealer/adhesive. The usual forum advised product for sealing anything on a boat is Sikaflex.

Whichever you use it only needs to seal holes through the transom to stop water ingress to its core. Remember to seal from both inside and outside of the transom. I'd not put it on the back of the bracket as it could make them a pig to remove in the future if needed.

I'll wait to hear where the transom wheels came from/what model and pics if possible before advising more... to avoid having 8 holes in the wrong place you need to get this right first time.

I got the wheels through excel boats, 250mm , haven't got picture of transom yet, as it is still packed away

[xpertski]

I have those on my aerotec, work great and sturdy

[smallribber]

You might want to pump them up with the foam puncture repair aerosols as they are notorious for deflating all on their own.

[Fenlander]

I am taken aback Excel will supply new wheels with a new SIB yet no instructions as how to fit... odd given they major on the personal touch when selling you the SIB.

Anyway...

You want to end up with the wheels curving under the floor not curving backwards. They should be set as far apart as they will go but not so far they foul the tubes when swinging up.

To fit I inflate the boat and put it on buckets or stools etc so it's sitting level. Then I trial the position of the bracket on the transom so the wheels are clear of the bottom by the greatest margin and swing up OK. Also ensuring the legs end up at 90deg to the level transom using a vertical level or square etc.

This is generic advice for wheels that swing up but I wonder if yours do or if they clip on and off up or down??

Also if you have them they will need to clear the spray flaps in the up posn.

There may be issues with rear fixings for the air floor etc being where the wheel bolts would come through so you may have to jiggle a compromise.

Take care when drilling not to go into the back of the air floor by mistake assuming it's in when you do the job. Also consider if the nuts and bolt ends on the inside might rub the back of the air floor. Using dome nuts is a good solution.

Worthwhile using a small pilot drill and going up in sizes to minimise transom face breakaway.

[Fenlander]

>>>might want to pump them up with the foam puncture repair aerosols as they are notorious for deflating all on their own.

Another reason I use solid sandhopper wheels on mine.

[Combat]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

I am taken aback Excel will supply new wheels with a new SIB yet no instructions as how to fit... odd given they major on the personal touch when selling you the SIB.

Anyway...

You want to end up with the wheels curving under the floor not curving backwards. They should be set as far apart as they will go but not so far they foul the tubes when swinging up.

To fit I inflate the boat and put it on buckets or stools etc so it's sitting level. Then I trial the position of the bracket on the transom so the wheels are clear of the bottom by the greatest margin and swing up OK. Also ensuring the legs end up at 90deg to the level transom using a vertical level or square etc.


This is generic advice for wheels that swing up but I wonder if yours do or if they clip on and off up or down??

Also if you have them they will need to clear the spray flaps in the up posn.

There may be issues with rear fixings for the air floor etc being where the wheel bolts would come through so you may have to jiggle a compromise.



Take care when drilling not to go into the back of the air floor by mistake assuming it's in when you do the job. Also consider if the nuts and bolt ends on the inside might rub the back of the air floor. Using dome nuts is a good solution.

Worthwhile using a small pilot drill and going up in sizes to minimise transom face breakaway.

Thanks for your advice, a bit disappointed that there are no instructions, I'm sure I will work it out. The wheels can stay on or you can remove them. The nuts are dome ones which were supplied with the wheels. Is it worth fastening the engine on transom before I start drilling holes ? Just in case the wheels touch outboard.
Cheers clive

[Fenlander]

Well if you push the wheels as far out as they can go allowing for other constraints they should miss the OB... but fitting it to be sure can do no harm.

[Combat]

Thanks, I think I will just in case

[Combat]

Just finished fitting transom wheels, a bit awkward trying to get them in the right place, came across one problem that I couldn't do much about, had to put the wheel arms facing outwards because of the inflatable floor, has plastic mouldings holding floor down so had to put the wheel arm brackets as tight as I could to it, still wasn't enough clearance under boat, so turned them around , just hope it works ok, looks good to though

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by Combat

Just finished fitting transom wheels, a bit awkward trying to get them in the right place, came across one problem that I couldn't do much about, had to put the wheel arms facing outwards because of the inflatable floor, has plastic mouldings holding floor down so had to put the wheel arm brackets as tight as I could to it, still wasn't enough clearance under boat, so turned them around , just hope it works ok, looks good to though

A picture is worth a thousand words

[Fenlander]

Agree... I wasn't quite sure if Combat meant the wheels are angled to the rear when down rather than under the transom.

If so... OK they'll work but if you are loaded with kit and/or have a long distance to trolley it will be heavy pull.

[Combat]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Agree... I wasn't quite sure if Combat meant the wheels are angled to the rear when down rather than under the transom.

If so... OK they'll work but if you are loaded with kit and/or have a long distance to trolley it will be heavy pull.

Yeah you right, had to angle them to rear, couldn't get brackets low enough, because there are plastic mouldings holding floor down, I've put the brackets as low as I could , right up to edge of plastic moulding strip
Hopefully it will be ok. I'm not very happy that excel sold me wheels, that don't actually fit how they should.

[Combat]

Originally Posted by Bigplumbs

A picture is worth a thousand words

I take some photos tomorrow, to show you