Floor Rails

roody262 · 04 June 2011, 04:21

Sorry if the thread title is a bit vague, hopefully I can explain what I'm after.

Have got a Zodiac Gran Raid with the aluminium floor, it got rails down either side of the floor boards (as I think all do). Just wondering if you can get fitting that slide in there such a D rings so I can attach things into a position such as the fuel tank.

If anyone can help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Daniel

Peter_C · 04 June 2011, 07:17

Much of my accessories are bolted right to the floor. My anchor locker, well really a legally bought milk crate, is zip tied to the floor with the stainless hardware shown below. I have the aluminum floor which has the first board made of wood. Both the aluminum and the wood can be screwed into.

sunrider · 04 June 2011, 14:46

Zodiac does make fittings that slide along in the rails - can't remember their name but I think I have some and will take a look in my storage and will post a picture if I can find one ........

roody262 · 04 June 2011, 15:09

Cheers for the replies, drilling into the floor is a secondary option, would mean taking the floor out of the boat for a start and everything would want counter sinking and covering to prevent it wearing through the bottom.

The benefit of having fittings that slide in the rails is they can be moved around.

Would be a great help if you could dig one out and get a picture, at least that way I may be able to make something up that would clamp into the rails. All it would need are a couple of bits of ally or stainless steal plate with some bolts through. Could even use a screw on metal eyelet to act as the clamp as well as the fixing.

kelson · 04 June 2011, 15:32

The zodiac plastic track sliders or tie downs are nice. They do work well. Each slider has a spring loaded pin that engages into the holes in the track to maintain it's position. The hole in the top of the sliders is too small to use with the hooks on my ratchet straps, but you could add a split ring to them easily. Sorry, I don't have a picture of them or the part number.

I made my own track sliders out of a sail stop and ss bale. The advantage over the plastic sliders is strength and the ability to clamp the custom slider anywhere along the rail (rather than just where stop holes are provided). Availability of sliders compared to parts was key too. Here are a couple of pics. I think the flexibility of the track system is awesome.

roody262 · 04 June 2011, 15:43

Thanks for those pictures, that is exactly the sort of thing I am looking for. Just need something to fix the fuel tank somewhere nearer the nose of the boat to stop it making it's way to the back of the boat!

Any more details of the parts you've used and where you sourced them from would be very handy.

Thanks again.

Dan

martini · 04 June 2011, 16:30

I think the design has changed a bit since, I recently bought some for my FC and they look like the(not very good) pic below.

Moulded plastic with a small hole to feed a carabiner through. Can be a bit fiddly but do the job

kelson · 04 June 2011, 17:55

I picked up the parts at West Marine, but they are available from many boating supply stores.

The inside track sail stop:

DAVIS INSTRUMENTS Sail Track Stops at West Marine

You can use a dead end bail, but I bought a terminal eye strap and cut off part of the lower plate. I left that part of the strap long enough so it would bridge both sides of the track when tightened down. Depending on size you may find a dead end bail that is ready fit.

FORESPAR Eyestrap at West Marine

All stainless, snug tight fit when clamped and strong enough to securely hold a larger load. Not necessarily a cheap alternative, but I have four of them and I really like the flexibility the track system affords.

sunrider · 05 June 2011, 19:00

here are the one's I had in storage - sorry about the picture quality - they may be the same as those posted by Martini......

Peter_C · 05 June 2011, 22:55

^Those posted above are the factory style that fit in the rails. I have a few, but don't trust them to hold much, especially not my anchor locker nor fuel tank. Then again most folks probably don't have 600lbs (270kg) of scuba tanks bouncing around the floor.

roody262 · 06 June 2011, 02:09

I see the Zodiac ones don't look as substantial to me and I bet they are difficult to get hold of. Going to have a look around the boat stores when I go back home next week see what I can find.

MT_Dweller · 13 July 2016, 15:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelson

I picked up the parts at West Marine, but they are available from many boating supply stores.

The inside track sail stop:

DAVIS INSTRUMENTS Sail Track Stops at West Marine

You can use a dead end bail, but I bought a terminal eye strap and cut off part of the lower plate. I left that part of the strap long enough so it would bridge both sides of the track when tightened down. Depending on size you may find a dead end bail that is ready fit.

FORESPAR Eyestrap at West Marine

All stainless, snug tight fit when clamped and strong enough to securely hold a larger load. Not necessarily a cheap alternative, but I have four of them and I really like the flexibility the track system affords.

Thanks for the info...did you use the 3/4 or the 3/8 tack sail stop to fit in the zodiac floor rails?

kelson · 13 July 2016, 16:13

3/4" sail stop fits the rails really well.

kelson · 13 July 2016, 16:18

A little out of focus, but another shot of the tie down.

jeffstevens763@g · 13 July 2016, 17:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by roody262

Cheers for the replies, drilling into the floor is a secondary option, would mean taking the floor out of the boat for a start and everything would want counter sinking and covering to prevent it wearing through the bottom.

The benefit of having fittings that slide in the rails is they can be moved around.

Would be a great help if you could dig one out and get a picture, at least that way I may be able to make something up that would clamp into the rails. All it would need are a couple of bits of ally or stainless steal plate with some bolts through. Could even use a screw on metal eyelet to act as the clamp as well as the fixing.

Use threaded inserts you dril a hole just through the top skin then fix the insert with a crimp tool same principle as pop rivets I bought the tool for £10 and the inserts for £1.99 aliminium stainless or just carbon steel if they are knackered just drill out and insert another.

Cheers

MT_Dweller · 13 July 2016, 20:15

Thanks all, ordered up the parts Kelson recommended. Now I can strap down the scuba tanks with impunity

Northern Pike · 19 July 2016, 13:45

I use the Zodiac ones to hold down everything: Fuel tank, battery, anchor box, and scuba tanks. They work well. I also made a several extras from a length of solid nylon. Cut to the proper contours (like an extrusion) then cut to several short lengths and drilled a hole in each one. You can't lock them into position, but I just place them in between the other pin-lockable ones.