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16 March 2016, 21:25
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#21
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,925
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Don't know what you paid Stig'73 but the T32 Honwave is often around £900. The Zodiac Acti-V 3.25 is usually discounted to £1345 or so. In my experience there is little practical difference in the quality/performance so you can happily assign the £445 extra the Zodiac would have cost to the expensive Honwave type transom wheels, Bravo pump, insurance and enough fuel for a whole summer.
That's how my man maths works.
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16 March 2016, 21:32
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#22
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
Don't know what you paid Stig'73 but the T32 Honwave is often around £900. The Zodiac Acti-V 3.25 is usually discounted to £1345 or so. In my experience there is little practical difference in the quality/performance so you can happily assign the £445 extra the Zodiac would have cost to the expensive Honwave type transom wheels, Bravo pump, insurance and enough fuel for a whole summer.
That's how my man maths works.
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Your mathematical skills are spot on Fenlander
However I got a bargain.... Last honwave and bravo in the shop, they are not stocking inflatables any longer
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16 March 2016, 23:01
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
Don't know what you paid Stig'73 but the T32 Honwave is often around £900. The Zodiac Acti-V 3.25 is usually discounted to £1345 or so. In my experience there is little practical difference in the quality/performance so you can happily assign the £445 extra the Zodiac would have cost to the expensive Honwave type transom wheels, Bravo pump, insurance and enough fuel for a whole summer.
That's how my man maths works.
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I like your thinking Fenlander.
Your always very mathematically methodical in your approach to buying and selling / changing Sib set ups.
Puts things in perspective and shows how you don't need to spend and loose a small fortune to have fun in open water.
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17 March 2016, 09:17
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sussex
Boat name: Bombard
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury Mariner 15hp
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,493
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As we're talking about man maths and fuel can others chip in here (don't want to divert this topic):
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/sib-fue...tml#post709243
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17 March 2016, 13:19
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Opinions please - not genuine honwave but £145 and Up to 100kg
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17 March 2016, 13:27
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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Is it possible to pass judgement without seeing them in the flesh? I guess if someone has bought/used them they can comment and TBH that's the only voice I would listen to if it were me.
FWIW they look identical to the Honwave ones. Per my previous note one thing I like about the Honwave ones is the 2-position locating them, i.e. straight down when towing on land, but splayed outwards when stowed on the water so staying clear of the OBM.
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17 March 2016, 14:03
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigomery
Is it possible to pass judgement without seeing them in the flesh? I guess if someone has bought/used them they can comment and TBH that's the only voice I would listen to if it were me.
FWIW they look identical to the Honwave ones. Per my previous note one thing I like about the Honwave ones is the 2-position locating them, i.e. straight down when towing on land, but splayed outwards when stowed on the water so staying clear of the OBM.
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I decided to order some, if quality isn't good I can send them back
They do look very similar to genuine honwave
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17 March 2016, 14:11
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: London
Make: Aerotec 3.8
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury T/S 15hp
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 370
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They look the same as the ones I have, as you say hard to say without looking. I use them with the boat fully loaded and they don't flex etc (repetition)
They also have the two pin positions so you launch in position 1 - legs down and once in the water and floating go to position 2 legs up and splayed, ahem.
Issues are when taking legs/wheels off and afloat is you drop them, other is putting them down to retrieve while afloat. Wheels are full of air so are a bit of a faff to submerge. Two solutions from forum members here are to fit (weld on) arms to assist and/or to part fill with water
Having only launched / retrieved a handful of times using the launch wheels I've not got it down to a fine art, others might help with technique. Overall the usability of the boat single handed goes through the roof, a must have bit of kit for me
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17 March 2016, 14:54
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yabadabadoo
They look the same as the ones I have, as you say hard to say without looking. I use them with the boat fully loaded and they don't flex etc (repetition)
They also have the two pin positions so you launch in position 1 - legs down and once in the water and floating go to position 2 legs up and splayed, ahem.
Issues are when taking legs/wheels off and afloat is you drop them, other is putting them down to retrieve while afloat. Wheels are full of air so are a bit of a faff to submerge. Two solutions from forum members here are to fit (weld on) arms to assist and/or to part fill with water
Having only launched / retrieved a handful of times using the launch wheels I've not got it down to a fine art, others might help with technique. Overall the usability of the boat single handed goes through the roof, a must have bit of kit for me
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The wheels on my old futura were the same, difficult to submerge under water
Unless you go for plastic or solid rubber tyres I guess this is always going to be the case
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17 March 2016, 15:15
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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I've never had any difficulty submerging these type of inflatable wheels - if you think about it, they hold much less air than a football and it's not that difficult to submerge a football... But maybe my wheels are different
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17 March 2016, 15:19
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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The tyres on my old wheels were huge....
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17 March 2016, 15:51
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#32
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,925
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The actual tyres aren't that large on the Honwave types... the very worse are the Zodiac own make for Futura/Aerotec etc. Those tyres are the biggest of all transom wheel types and they can be a real problem to get down in the water.
Wheels that flip are loads easier too than ones like the Zodiac that you take off or the Honwaves where you have to swivel the tube to the right place to get a pin in.
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17 March 2016, 15:59
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#33
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
The actual tyres aren't that large on the Honwave types... the very worse are the Zodiac own make for Futura/Aerotec etc. Those tyres are the biggest of all transom wheel types and they can be a real problem to get down in the water.
Wheels that flip are loads easier too than ones like the Zodiac that you take off or the Honwaves where you have to swivel the tube to the right place to get a pin in.
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Yes, it was "those" genuine zodiac wheels
Good quality but more buoyant than the sib 🙄
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17 March 2016, 16:52
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#34
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,925
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Ahh I wondered. I just used my last set of those for a part season last year and had they stayed with the SIB I'd have put some water in them.
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17 March 2016, 19:27
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#35
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
Ahh I wondered. I just used my last set of those for a part season last year and had they stayed with the SIB I'd have put some water in them.
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Possibly a stupid question, but...... How do you get water in the tyres?
Is it not a pneumatic car tyre type valve?
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18 March 2016, 15:58
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#36
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Boat name: SIBylle
Make: Honda Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Honda BF20
MMSI: 235915576
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestig1973
Possibly a stupid question, but...... How do you get water in the tyres?
Is it not a pneumatic car tyre type valve?
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Take the valve out, pour in water, screw valve back in, pump up tyre.
The valve just unscrews with a little tool
But sure you could do it with some needle nosed plyers...
Alternatively you could fill the tyres with this stuff... it even comes with a valve remover tool included ;-) I use this in the lawnmover which is forever getting punctures...
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18 March 2016, 17:58
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#37
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigomery
Take the valve out, pour in water, screw valve back in, pump up tyre.
The valve just unscrews with a little tool
But sure you could do it with some needle nosed plyers...
Alternatively you could fill the tyres with this stuff... it even comes with a valve remover tool included ;-) I use this in the lawnmover which is forever getting punctures...
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Oh yeah I know how to remove the inner valve.... Easy then !
Thanks
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19 March 2016, 09:51
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#38
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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When I drill holes for the launch wheels, the I.d. Plate is in the way on the inner side of the transom
Drill through it or remove it?
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19 March 2016, 10:07
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#39
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,925
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Ahh difficult one. On my Zodiacs and now the Aerotec to avoid this unsightly plate drilling I've moved the plate first and being grey or black satin painted wood the small holes were so easily filled/painted over so you can't tell.
But yours is a GRP finish transom.
Probably I'd move the plate and carefully fill the holes with one part GRP gelcoat filler that comes in a small tube making sure there was no extra slared over the surrounding GRP.
Sure you're mounting in the correct place... have Honwave really put the ID plate where they know the mounts would go?
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19 March 2016, 10:07
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#40
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: warrington
Make: Honwave T32
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mercury 15 2 stroke
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 523
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Thanks Fenlander 👍
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