How much risk of flipping over is there?

[The Gurnard]

Originally Posted by rcflyyer1

Is everyone just placing the wood under the motor or are they screwing it down? I would prefer not to increase the number of holes in the transom so if I can get away with double sided tape or velcro, I'll go that route.

Hi Rcflyyer ... IMO a couple of cable ties to hold the wooden packing piece into the Outboard clamps as shown in the photo is better than screwing bits of wood to the transom top. The cable ties hold the wood permanently in place so you never forget them. You can still bolt the OB on if you wish. Only works with packing pieces that still keep the clamps on the transom plate. I only needed 15mm on the outboard in the photo to prevent spray being thrown up. Just another way of doing things

[pumpkinking]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

The 9.9 suzi is the same as my 20hp, it’s going to be a heavy lump for a 9.9. Dunno what the difference in price is, I’d be tempted to buy the 20hp & some 9.9 cowl stickers

Ah PD I’m looking at the £1800 (best price online) DF9.9A, same block as the 8hp, so carbureted rather than the EFI 9.9B (which I think is closer to £2k?)

Anyway I’m hijacking the thread...

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by pumpkinking

Ah PD I’m looking at the £1800 (best price online) DF9.9A, same block as the 8hp, so carbureted rather than the EFI 9.9B (which I think is closer to £2k?)

Anyway I’m hijacking the thread...

Ahhh[emoji106] I thought it was the efi.

[Fenlander]

The DF9.9A is lighter than the 20hp models but still on the heavy side for the 10hp class so if weight is a main consideration the Mercury/Mariner/Tohatsu models are better.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

The DF9.9A is lighter....

Ahh I was talking BS....as usual

https://marine.suzuki.co.uk/outboards/df99b/

[Fenlander]

To be fair over the last 20yrs the hp at which different makes crossed over their models re weight takes some remembering... and looking up when memory fails.

The smaller 9.9 is still only 4kg less than the 20hp efi.

[rcflyyer1]

Don't worry about the thread taking a bit of a detour. I'll try to add more info myself about the engine and hopefully the solution that fixes the problem.

Fenlander, I will take a good look at the inside of the motor for that tube you mentioned. Salt water in the carb jets sounds horrible.

The Gurnard, that's a neat solution! I like the redundancy of having the 4 zip ties! I'll keep that in mind.

So I took the time today to assemble the boat, outboard and all. Previously, I was unaware of what an anti-cavitation plate even was, so this time I knew what I was looking for thanks to the info on these forums.

Since most people suggested running the trim at the second hole out from the transom, I set it at that and forgot about it. Upon looking at the boat today, the second trim position appears to put the motor at too much of a down angle. When I put the trim at the third position, the prop shaft appears to be level with the side tubes. Could this have been causing my spray issue?

The anti-cavitation plate is sitting around 1.75 inches below the transom. Do you think I can get away with this? For structural integrity purposes, having the clamps further down on the rigid transom would keep the motor more secure.

Also in this video (not mine), it shows that upper plate doing most of the deflecting work. The upper plate on my motor is well above the bottom of the transom.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBeZjaA76VM

First and third photos are trim in third position out. Second photo is trim in second position out.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[rcflyyer1]

Took the boat for another spin with the outboard in the third trim position. Comfort while planing is improved and I no longer feel each and every single ripple on the water. Porpoising has also decreased.

I still unfortunately get water spraying up over half throttle however. The spray is being kicked up by the uppermost plate on the outboard (don't know what it's called). When looking at the motor while in the water, I see that the uppermost plate is under the water by about 3/4 inch (19mm), even though it appears to be pretty high compared to the keel in my previous photos?

Next step is to put a 3/4 inch (19mm) wooden shim under the bracket and see how that works. I'll probably end up coating the wood in penetrating epoxy, to stop mold from growing on it and spreading to my transom. Does this seem like the best option?

[babbot1]

Sounds like you are getting closer.
Before you go crazy and paint, try it out. It may not be the correct thickness.
You can try a few paint stir sticks stacked. They usually give them out for free at hardware stores when you buy paint. You can add or remove to try different heights and they should be the correct width. Once you figure out optimal height then you can make a solid piece of whatever. I have used pieces of cut up rubber mat in the past.